[nattonrice]

SED winged-C have been solid performers.
I recently acquired some EML tubes (not 6ca7 though) and the construction quality on these is exemplary.
There are some solid new production brands out there.

 

[David1961]

SED winged-C have been solid performers.
I recently acquired some EML tubes (not 6ca7 though) and the construction quality on these is exemplary.
There are some solid new production brands out there.

I'm using SED winged 'C's with my BHSE which I've been doing for well over a year without a problem.
They also look and feel very solid and I'm not worried that something might happen while inserting them.
I wasn't aware that this shouldn't be done, but when I insert them I always hold the glass tube, not the base.
I also did the same with the stock tubes without a problem.
If it's advised to insert the EL34PH's holding the base and not the glass tube, then IMO it must be very thin glass being used.

When I hold the glass tube while inserting, I do so with as least amount of pressure as possible, and I also insert them very carefully.

 

[Golfnutz]

Quote:

SED winged-C have been solid performers.
I recently acquired some EML tubes (not 6ca7 though) and the construction quality on these is exemplary.
There are some solid new production brands out there.

I had some EML rectifier tubes myself (5U4G). I agree the construction and quality are top notch. However, if you visit the Woo Audio Owners Unite forum, they had many reliability issues too. Pretty sure that's been sorted out now.
 
Had the SED's. Very reliable (but they had their issues in the beginning too). On the BHSE, there's a noticeable difference in sound between them and the EL34PH though. They just don't have the same coherency and smoothness as the EL34PH are more extended overall.

 

[Golfnutz]

Quote:

I'm using SED winged 'C's with my BHSE which I've been doing for well over a year without a problem.
They also look and feel very solid and I'm not worried that something might happen while inserting them.
I wasn't aware that this shouldn't be done, but when I insert them I always hold the glass tube, not the base.
I also did the same with the stock tubes without a problem.
If it's advised to insert the EL34PH's holding the base and not the glass tube, then IMO it must be very thin glass being used.

When I hold the glass tube while inserting, I do so with as least amount of pressure as possible, and I also insert them very carefully.

David, the issue has nothing to do with inserting the tubes, or the glass thickness. Put your hands were ever you want as the pressure is being applied downward (when inserting). It's when pulling the tubes out (you never pull up on the glass - on any tube). It's when your hand is on the base, and you have to wiggle the tube back and forth while pulling up. Some of the tube sockets are tighter than others, and the plastic guide pin seems a bit brittle. It's this combination that's causing the guide pin to break.

 

[David1961]

David, the issue has nothing to do with inserting the tubes, or the glass thickness. Put your hands were ever you want as the pressure is being applied downward (when inserting). It's when pulling the tubes out (you never pull up on the glass - on any tube). It's when your hand is on the base, and you have to wiggle the tube back and forth while pulling up. Some of the tube sockets are tighter than others, and the plastic guide pin seems a bit brittle. It's this combination that's causing the guide pin to break.

Thank you Golfnutz ( sorry I don't know your first name ) for letting me know about taking the tubes out, and also thank you for writing the post about Grant Fidelity regarding the EL34PH.
After reading that there's a good chance I'll be getting a quad from them, but it still won't be until sometime next year.

 

[SoupRKnowva]

I always thought it had more to do with the oils on your fingers getting on the glass and causing uneven heat distribution which would make the glass fail prematurely. Like with car headlight bulbs?

Though I could be completely off base...

 

[spritzer]

Glass failure is very rare and the bulb temp is nowhere near hot enough for the skin oils to cause problems. 

 

[SoupRKnowva]

Glass failure is very rare and the bulb temp is nowhere near hot enough for the skin oils to cause problems. 

And I was, thanks for the clarification Spritzer

 

[Bones13]

I think handling the glass with your fingers can smudge expensive NOS lettering, but I agree about the temp, breakage (lack of) issue.

 

[realmassy]

So, it looks like I'll take the plunge and get a BHSE. I'll have to sell my amp to finance the first installments so it means I won't be using my 009 for a long time.
What's your idea? Is it really worth it?

 

[eric65]

Hi realmassy
 
No, I would be you, I'd wait a bit, because stay long weaned from 009 will be very difficult for you.
 
Do as Arnaud and expect our next comparative amplifier (7 and 8 september) before you decide.
 
Friendly advice.
 
Eric
 
PS: for listening on the 009, the 727 is better than 007t2 (more dynamic). The RKV-Wee are warmer than the 727 while also being dynamic. According to Frederick and Alex the BHSE may be a bit too bright and not warm and rich enough with 009 (especially in comparaison than the RKV-Wee and of course the Demograf). The Electra, cheaper than BHSE, may also be a good alternative to these other amps with 009.

 

[David1961]

So, it looks like I'll take the plunge and get a BHSE. I'll have to sell my amp to finance the first installments so it means I won't be using my 009 for a long time.
What's your idea? Is it really worth it?

Most of us that's got the BHSE, did so even without hearing it first.
As you know you have the opportunity to hear mine with your 009's, and in doing so you'd know whether you'd be happy with how your 009's sounded driven by the BHSE.
Although I'm happy with the 009 / BHSE combo, in hindsight I'd have never let my 007mk1's go and never have got the 009's, but still have the BHSE.

IMO the SR-007mk1 / BHSE , great combo. SR-009 / BHSE , ?

 

[rgs9200m]

I still think those who are trying to find an affordable amp for the 009 would like the 007t2 amp.
 
The bass has a very fine control and transparency and detail, and is clearly deeper than the HD800 bass. 
In fact, in contrast to other comments here, the bass stands out as one of the best features of the 009/007t2 combo.
 
The issue with this combo is that, in comparison with, say, LCD3s or TH900s, there is extreme clarity in the highs,
and it is not as relaxing up there as the non-stats, but it is completely un-distorted.
The 009 has less bass, but it is ample, and the bass is the opposite of bulbous, in fact I have never heard such a beautiful quality bass on any phone or speakers ever,
with NO overhang or annoying softness, which really bothers me (like in JVC 1000s or Grado PS1000s or Denon D7000s).
This combo has  brilliant, see-through fast bass.
 
I like all of these phones a lot and they all get head-time (the HD800s less so, not in the same league as the Fostex, Audeze, or Stax for me).

 

[spritzer]

I''d say that isn't a good recommendation based on the 007tA sitting here.  It's bloody awful in stock form... 

 

[David1961]

I still think those who are trying to find an affordable amp for the 009 would like the 007t2 amp

I haven't heard the SRM-007t2, but I once had the SRM-007t along with the SR-007mk1. And it was because of that amp it didn't bother me letting the 007mk1's go ( that amp went as well ). I heard the SRM-007t again ( it was Head-fier IanG's 007t ) with both my 009's and Ian's 007mk1's and at the same time we also heard the SRM-717. And the 717 sounded better than the 007t with both headphone.
If someone offered to give me the SRM-007t, I'd say no thanks.