[cpw]

My uncle has some Vandersteens that are part of a system he is leaving behind when his house sells next month. I can have them if I'm willing to replace them with something to make the system complete. They're about 10 yrs old but I don't know which model yet.
I've built a system around some Von Schweikert VR-1s and plan to add a VonSchweikert Sub at some point. They're in a pretty small room but I'm thinking I should probably try to score these and at least check them out. I could always put 'em in the livingroom HT setup.
Whaddaya think?
CPW

 

[elrod-tom]

Vandersteens are some nice speakers. If they end up being 2 Series, they are some of the better values anywhere. Others are nice as well. I say go for it.

 

[sacd lover]

Ten years ago Vandersteen made the models 1, 2 and 3. All of those are nice speakers. I owned a pair of the 2's(2Ci). I hope for you its a pair of 2 or 3's even though the 1's are good. I am betting it might be the 2 or 3's as they are a pain to move.

 

[cpw]

All I know for now is that they are floor standers.
I'll find out more on Thurs. I'm not really sure how technology has changed and how they'll compare to the VR-1 w/ sub. I'm really happy w/ the VR1s so far and the Vandersteens will definitely take up more space in an already crowded room. I wonder if there's a minimum listening distance as my chaiir is only about 6' from my speakers.
CPW

 

[sacd lover]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cpw All I know for now is that they are floor standers. I'll find out more on Thurs. I'm not really sure how technology has changed and how they'll compare to the VR-1 w/ sub. I'm really happy w/ the VR1s so far and the Vandersteens will definitely take up more space in an already crowded room. I wonder if there's a minimum listening distance as my chaiir is only about 6' from my speakers. CPW

All three steens were floor standers. They all use first order crossovers so they blend the drivers very well at closer distances. They must be angled to get you on the right listening axis though, and this is accomplished by the stands tilt.
Speakers are made the same as they have been for decades. The new driver and crossover materials are an advance but the basic designs are the same. These speakers are warm, natural and smooth with dynamics being the only weakness I encountered with mine. They dont have much jump factor. These speakers do need some power; especially the 2 and 3's. Thats probably why the dynamics can sound restrained. The 2's have a low sensitivity around 82-84 db /1 watt/1 meter.

 

[GWN]

Vandy's 2 or 3's are not good speakers for a small room. They need to be placed away from the back wall and if I remember well a minimum of 8 feet from the listener. They also need to be tilted to maintain the the time/phase alignment. They need a first rate amplifier. They have low nomimal impedence and low sensitivity, therefore require more power. But properly set-up with a good strong amp they are very nice, coherent speakers. You can also get your speakers upgraded to the current level.

 

[enzoferrari650]

My dad is thinking about getting the 3a sigs. The room is not a problem but would a krell kav300i be powerful enough?

 

[GWN]

The Krell 300i should be OK. Anything from 100 to 200 watts would be good. I was driving 2CE Sig's with my YBA (100 Watts). The 3A Sig's are one of my favourite speakers. Heard a pair hooked up to a Gamut D200 amp, it was incredible.

 

[cpw]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GWN The Krell 300i should be OK. Anything from 100 to 200 watts would be good. I was driving 2CE Sig's with my YBA (100 Watts). The 3A Sig's are one of my favourite speakers. Heard a pair hooked up to a Gamut D200 amp, it was incredible.

In that room, I'm using a Phase Linear Model 200 Series 2 which, depending on which source you believe, is between 100w and 120w. I assume that's enough but the distances concern me. I'm thinking if I can pick 'em up w/ a minimal outlay to replace (the rest of the speaks are monitor audio and you can buy those at Good Guys these days), they're worth a try.
I can always put 'em in a bigger room if I like 'em and rebuild!
I would like to hear more opinions though. I'm always amazed at the quality of advice I find here. To quote the PGA tour: "These guys are good!"
CPW

 

[utep10]

I'm very happy with the Vandersteen 2Ce's that I've owned for about 10 years.
I'll echo what others have said that if they are model 2s or 3s then I'd take them if space permits. Your amp has enough power. The question is how the rest of your system matches with the Vandys.
If the Vandys are any of the 1 series then it becomes a little questionable. Still, I might consider the Vandy 1s over the VS-1s+subwoofer only because the Vandy 1s is a 2 way design in itself where the VS-1s+subwoofer combo, may not have such a seamless interaction.
For me, the stands for the Vandersteens are a must for proper setup. Look forward to hearing what models they are.

 

[jmzzz01]

CPW-

It would definitely be in your interest to investigate these. I have been using Vandersteen speakers since 1989 and have a full home theater setup now with 2Ci's in the front, 1B's in the back, and dual 2W subs. The Vandersteen website has a lot of info for you to peruse and if you call there with a question, you will often end up talking to the owner. He's been building speakers for over 20 years and is quite a treat to listen to. Truly an audophile legend.

As mentioned above, the appearance of his oldest lines of speakers has changed little over the years while the inner workings have constantly been improved. His philosophy is that the maximum amount of cost should go into the sound, not fancy cabinetry.

I am currently using a 250wpc Bryson amp to power the fronts, but usually use a pair of 60 watt Quicksilver monoblocks, and have in the past powered them with a Dynaco ST-70 (35wpc), all have given excellent results. I don't think the power requirements will be out of your limits (depending on volume) - you just want to use a quality amp. The 2C's have an efficiency of 88dB; 2Ci's have 89dB. Recommended power is 40 to 160 wpc - just don't use some cheap receiver from Ward's or something. High distortion levels, not power level, is what causes damage.

I have quite a bit of literature on their speakers that I could share once you find out exactly which model you're dealing with.- Jim

(edit for spelling)

 

[enzoferrari650]

What about just the regular 3a's. Me and my dad own the sonus faber concertos. Would something like the 2ce have compareable high's? Because we just cant stand the lack of bass on the concertos. We really love how clear the highs are and would like something of equal quality or more in the highs.

 

[cpw]

ok had a quick look at them earlier today but my uncle wasn't around. There is a flat base then the main cabinet is suppoted on cylindrical feet ( at least in the front).
Does that help identify them at all?
They may in fact be older than 10 yrs.
CPW

 

[1967cutlass]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cpw ok had a quick look at them earlier today but my uncle wasn't around. There is a flat base then the main cabinet is suppoted on cylindrical feet ( at least in the front). Does that help identify them at all? They may in fact be older than 10 yrs. CPW

it doesnt matter how old speakers are. anway just replace them with something cheap and get them.

 

[jmzzz01]

CPW-

Take a look at the back side where the speaker inputs are. The RCA jacks are mounted on a metal plate that also identifies the make, model, etc. I agree with the above post. Just go get them and replace them with something cheap - head over to the Goodwill outlet or something. Even if you end up not wanting them, they're too good to leave there.

The model 1's, 2's, 3's, and 4's all have a wood cap at the top and bottom with a cloth "sock" spanning between them, with large dowels framing the corners, so construction method does not tell the individual model. They differ in size, though.