[LuckyNat]

 their rear cap is really problematic for me because it unscrews without touching it and i'm really afraid i will lose it anytime.

 
Just tighten them up a little.. I've never had mine become loose in any way.
 
For me, it's the ethereal naturalness (ok, a kind of contradiction in terms outside of the world of headphones but hopefully people know what I mean) of the Flares which make them special. It's darn addictive and something to experience.

 

[LuckyNat]

  Just received my r2a here in Beijing, 22 days after I bought it from Amazon.
I'm positively impressed with the sound right out of the box, great depth and separation, will do some burning-in before I do some critical listening. 
And I like its look, the unique design of plug is a nice touch. 
But the cable doesn't look & feel sturdy to me, I'm afraid that it won't be easy to get it fixed in China if somehow I broke it.
And the metal splitter, though it looks good, it's just too heavy, makes the earbuds slip out. Hope the next generation of products would change that, or use some lighter material. 

 I know you've removed it now (it can easily be put back on) but it does actually help comfort if you wear them differently with the cable going upwards and over the back of your ear..  I left it on my Pros for more serious listening and took it off my R2As for general public transport and about-town listening.

 

[james444]

 

On the other hand I always thought that R2Pro has a little bit too much of sub-bass for being neutral.

 
Just tighten them up a little..

 
Perfect sequence of posts. 

 

[qsk78]

No, in general the Pro have more sub-bass to my ears with or without tightening them up

 

[xoxiax]

   
Just tighten them up a little.. I've never had mine become loose in any way.
 
 

 
Yes, i've tightened them many times , but one of them has that tendency to unscrew that forces me to check them regularly to prevent the potential fall and loss. The first time it happened they were in my backpack and when i took them out the driver, which was out of the shell, broke. I've sent them to Flare and they inserted the new drivers but after that the end cap (i suppose is always the same) has unscrewed four times in three months (having to search for it, for example, in a bus full of people). In fact this is a question i had for the forum. Has anyone else had this problem (the end cap unscrewing) or do i have a defective unit?
 
The collateral effect, as @james444 has stated different times explaining the properties of these tiny music robots, is that because of having them a bit more tightened than usual i loose a small amount of subbass response...

 

[Middy]

Threads are like valley's and mountains. There is a gap when the thread isn't tight. Tight just means two edges are pressed together. The tip mod excellent not just as a bass adjuster. But acts like a spring trying to push the cap out. This closes the gaps between threads causing friction.
Sorry the engineer in me..
A simple mod would be a tiny amount of glue from pva to a little super glue.

Drip on a cotton bud and very light place on the cap thread only a very thin smear. Not a big blob. Let it dry and re screw. This makes the cap thread Bigger and act as a dampener.

Fancy term is you have top end tolerances so your threads are a bit more loose.

PVA is more rubbery...

There is product like loctight thread lock( expensive) but PVA OR Wood glue should do it

Try that and good luck
Hope this helps
Dave

 

[james444]

  No, in general the Pro have more sub-bass to my ears with or without tightening them up

 
Do you mean your Pro's sub-bass is independent of endcap position, or that you get more sub-bass on the Pro than on the SS when endcaps are in the same position? 
 

 
Yes, i've tightened them many times , but one of them has that tendency to unscrew that forces me to check them regularly to prevent the potential fall and loss. The first time it happened they were in my backpack and when i took them out the driver, which was out of the shell, broke. I've sent them to Flare and they inserted the new drivers but after that the end cap (i suppose is always the same) has unscrewed four times in three months (having to search for it, for example, in a bus full of people). In fact this is a question i had for the forum. Has anyone else had this problem (the end cap unscrewing) or do i have a defective unit?
 
The collateral effect, as @james444 has stated different times explaining the properties of these tiny music robots, is that because of having them a bit more tightened than usual i loose a small amount of subbass response...

Threads are like valley's and mountains. There is a gap when the thread isn't tight. Tight just means two edges are pressed together. The tip mod excellent not just as a bass adjuster. But acts like a spring trying to push the cap out. This closes the gaps between threads causing friction.

 
@Middy I was going to suggest the tip / washer mod, but you beat me to it.

  Like you described, the washer acts like a spring and the endcaps stay securely in place, even if you loosen them to get more bass.

 

[Middy]

Always here to help (and steal others thunder)... You can mod the tip mod if you want it more open by making the tip a little longer...so you still get the spring effect. One last tip is roll something flat across the top of the threads. This flattens the tips of the thread causing more friction. The elegance of the tip mod wins every time.
Got to go the boss is glaring at me..

Have fun
Dave

 

[qsk78]

   
Do you mean your Pro's sub-bass is independent of endcap position, or that you get more sub-bass on the Pro than on the SS when endcaps are in the same position? 
 

Well, you can adjust. But to me even in the lowest bass q-ty position it is still more present in Pro's than in SS.
Another thing is that I have changed the pre-amplifier on my Vantam from the stock LME49860 to the OPA627 (which sounds differently from the stock op-amp) after my Pro's were broken, so I have to wait for a replacement driver kit to try them on opa627 and to compare apples to apples. 
 
I really like the R2S and I like the way how the Pro' sound. So I like both.

 

 

[james444]

  Well, you can adjust. But to me even in the lowest bass q-ty position it is still more present in Pro's than in SS.

 
Yep, that's similar to what @Bananiq (whom I lent my Pros) reported about the Pros vs. his R2As. Here's my reply to him and what I think is the explanation for that:
 

As for the differences you perceive between R2A and R2Pro, there's a logical (technical) explanation for that. You may remember my close-up photo which shows that the cable slits are different, i.e. the R2Pro's are slightly larger. That means you have to screw the Pro's endcap further in than the A's, until it starts to seal off the slit. Which in turn means that once the slits are completely sealed, there's a little less air left behind the Pro-driver than behind the A-driver. So, if you screw the endcaps flush on both IEMs, air pressure inside the R2A becomes slightly higher than inside the R2Pro, and as a result of higher rear damping the R2A sound slightly less loud (and dynamic) than the R2Pro.  
Bottom line, in order to get the best possible match to a flush-tuned R2Pro, you'd need to loosen the R2A's endcaps just a tiny bit. However, a 100% exact match is virtually impossible, since residual air volume is inherently different (due to the different slits). Also, we're talking about tenth of millimeters when making endcap adjustments, so getting a 90% match is probably as good as we can possibly manage.

 
I haven't seen a closeup of the SS, but from your sound description I'd expect its slit to be similar to the R2A (i.e. not chamfered and slightly smaller than the Pro's).

 

[qsk78]

 
I haven't seen a closeup of the SS, but from your sound description I'd expect its slit to be similar to the R2A (i.e. not chamfered and slightly smaller than the Pro's).

Unfortunately, I have not heard the R2A. From one of the reviews I remember that it was stated that the R2S has a larger sound stage and retrieve more details out. Can not prove it.,  to me the R2S is as detailed as Pro's and Pro's more linear sounding  I think. Again, need to wait...

 

[sabloke]

don't know about you but I can't wait to try the new Comply tips with my Pros
 
http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/ces-2016-comply-one-size-fits-almostall-earphone-tips#2Q8IduTXUhvlX6Ur.97

 

[Stuff Jones]

  don't know about you but I can't wait to try the new Comply tips with my Pros
 
http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/ces-2016-comply-one-size-fits-almostall-earphone-tips#2Q8IduTXUhvlX6Ur.97

 
I'll be excited when comply offers at least a six month warranty on their tips. 

 

[qsk78]

 R2S (left) and R2Pro (right)
 

 

[qsk78]

I took the R2S drivers today and put them into Pro's.

Actually I don't hear any significant boost in the sub-bass area, so it was the LME op-amp specifics I guess.
The main difference I hear now is mids - more forward in R2S, and linear in Pro's - more neutral sound, more details.
I'm confused... How the material of the housing can change the sound..