Etymotic, A L 717 & 616, other IEMs - care and feeding
Nov 20, 2006 at 12:03 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 17

drarthurwells

Headphoneus Supremus
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Any canal phone is subject to ear canal secretion build up inside the canal phone which can clog and block the sound.

With the proper care this can be managed. The Etymotic has replaceable green filters in the tube leading to the internal driver. This is a mesh screen filter placed inside a tiny metal cylinder that is inserted at the end of the tube leading into the driver. When this filter gets dirty, the sound level will drop and the music center will shift to one side instead of being centered. Time to act when this happens.

You don't know a filter is dirty until the sound level drops in one ear - they get clogged one ear at a time instead of both ears at the same time.

I have greatly reduced filter clogging by regularly cleaning the latex tri-flange's inner canal leading to the filter. I ream this canal out (leaving the tip in place on the Etymotic driver) with a small jeweler's screwdriver tip inserted no more than 1/8 inch (3 mm) inside the tip of the flange, twisting it around to scrape any debris inside the canal. Keeping this latex tip canal clean reduces the dirt that goes in past the canal to the filter. I also clean the complete flange at times, taking them off and soaking in liquid dishwasher soap (one part) in water (50 parts), for hours, and then rinsing under the faucet, squeezing out the water from the canal, and air drying.

If you keep the latex tips clean per the above, filter problems will be infrequent.

The filters are expensive but can be cleaned and resused.

Use the filter tool supplied by Etymotic to remove the filter (first remove the tip). This tool is a tiny screw which you screw in slightly to grab the lip of the metal filter end. If you are careful, and don't screw this tool in too much, you can pull the metal filter out without damaging the green screen inside. Use a pin tip, to angle in and grab the inner lip of the filter to slowly work it out, if you need to.

Now soak for a few hours in a grease removing liquid dishwasher soap solution like Dawn (one part to 50 parts water) - all you need is tiny amount in small container (soft drink bottle cap is plenty big). Swish the filter around to work the soap inside the metal case.

Now, give a thorough water rinsing, holding the filter in its metal housing with tweezers. Let the tap water run through it, but be careful not to lose it down the drain. Then repeat this process (wash and rinse), for a thorough cleaning if you wish (though once is likely enough).

Conclude with an air drying with a gentle syringe blow aimed in the filter held by tweezers, or use a hair dryer on the cold air setting. This is to remove as much water as possible. Don't blow through it as debris in your breath will lodge in the filter. Now follow up by letting dry in the open air for a day - standing up pon a flat surface with green filter side up.

Then use the tweezer to carefully insert the filter back into the driver tube, making sure the end with the curved lip edge, and green filter material is, on the outside. Allow the cylinder edge to extend perhaps about .75 mm outside the driver tube. Leaving it slightly out will facilitate its subsequent removal by grasping it by its edge with tweezers (avoiding the use of the screw tool that could damage the green filter mesh material).

As soon as your center tone shifts slightly off center, clean the filter causing this and you will restore a wider soundstage, volume, and clearer sound.

Recently I have used speaker grill cloth pieces as filters, in both the Etymotic and the Altec Lansing iM716. I only use the latex tri-flanged ear inserts. When I lose some sound in one channel, or notice some dullness in the treble, that is time for action.

I remove the latex inserts and soak them in a grease cutting dishwasher soap solution as decribed above. When they are dry, I take two square pieces of speaker grill cloth and place them (centered) over the inner hole of the latex insert hole and push them inside this hole with a small tipped object like a small pair of scissors. Now, I have taken the regular filters out of the IEMs so they are filterless. In the case of the AL iM716, I took out the filter material in the center of the red plastic holder and left the holder in place (it has small hole in it that may influence the sound so I left this inserted). Then it is matter of replacing the latex inserts on the era phone tips. The filter material I put in is now in the latex insert canal to serve to block wax from entering the era phone canal.

I replace the home made filters every time I clean the latex inserts. For the ER 4S I use a piece of grill cloth that is about 3.25 to 3.5 MM square, and for the iM 716, 3.75 to 3.9 MM square (it has a slightly larger diameter insert canal than the Etymotic). PM me for my address, then send me a dollar bill with a self addressed and stamped envelope, and I will send you a 3 by 4 inch swatch of grill cloth to make many filters. The price will go up to $20 when I patent my idea. That is for my legal defense fund when Etymotic sues me.

I don't know how the sound is affected by not using factory filters engineered to produce a correct frequency response. My filters may be overly bright and detailed for instance. You could enlarge the size of the filter square if this is a problem - would absorb more high frequencies. It works OK for me as I only use my IEMs for casual listening.
 
Nov 20, 2006 at 2:23 AM Post #2 of 17
woah! i need to know how to do this!

what do u mean in the section about removing the filter without damaging the screen? can this be done? metal filter? i thought the filters are plastic cylindrical objects with a mesh at the top where u screw into?

pics/etc would be greatly appreciated.

ty for ur efforts so far
 
Nov 20, 2006 at 3:36 AM Post #3 of 17
Quote:

Originally Posted by bellsprout /img/forum/go_quote.gif
woah! i need to know how to do this!

what do u mean in the section about removing the filter without damaging the screen? can this be done? metal filter? i thought the filters are plastic cylindrical objects with a mesh at the top where u screw into?

pics/etc would be greatly appreciated.

ty for ur efforts so far



Remove the Etymotic filter with the small screw tip tool supplied by Etymotic. It catches on the inner lip of the metal cylinder that holds the green mesh filter. You can also do this with a cuticle scissor that has a small sharp tip - insert the tip into the lip of the metal cylinder and pull it out.

I removed the mesh part of the Altec Lansing filter with a small knife tip - just dug it out leaving the red plastic part (with a small hole in the center) inserted as before.

[size=small]Kids, don't try this at home. Leave this to fools like myself.[/size]
 
Nov 21, 2006 at 3:16 AM Post #4 of 17
hmmm I think my filters have plastic cylinders

anyway - the mesh is at the very top of the filter. I have to poke the filter removing tool through the mesh to remove the filter, so I'm breaking the mesh. What am I doing wrong?
 
Nov 21, 2006 at 4:12 AM Post #5 of 17
Quote:

Originally Posted by bellsprout /img/forum/go_quote.gif
hmmm I think my filters have plastic cylinders

anyway - the mesh is at the very top of the filter. I have to poke the filter removing tool through the mesh to remove the filter, so I'm breaking the mesh. What am I doing wrong?



Nothing. The Etymotic filters can (with care) be removed without puncturing them; the Altec Lansing filters cannot. Notice drarthurwells made this distinction in his last post, saying he "removed the mesh part of the Altec Lansing filter" and kept the red plastic portion inside the earphone tube. There is an older thread around here detailing the homemade iM716/616 filter method with pictures -- it's worth a search.
 
Nov 21, 2006 at 5:49 AM Post #7 of 17
Quote:

Originally Posted by bellsprout /img/forum/go_quote.gif
so what do i do - do i poke the tool straight down and twist, hoping the mesh has a bit elasticity, or do i have it at an angle and kinda pry it out?


If you are talking about the AL 716 or 616, take the ear tip off to expose the filter - which is a mesh screen in a red plastic cylinder casing.

Take a pin or other small probe tool, and dig out the mesh while leaving the red plastic alone. You should be able to see a hole centered in the red plastic piece - leave it alone at this point.

Put a small square cloth piece as described above, pushed inside the inner hole of the latex ear tip where the ear tip is pushed on the ear phone piston. This will seve as a filter located inside the latex canal (and near the ear phone piston that shoves into the latex ear piece).

Remember, the factory filters are at the tip of the ear phone piston.

The makeshift filters I use are inside the latex flange (or tip), near the place where the factory filters were.
 
Nov 21, 2006 at 7:45 AM Post #9 of 17
Quote:

Originally Posted by bellsprout /img/forum/go_quote.gif
no i'm talking about the ety er-6i's sry


With the ER4 S or P the whole filter unit - metal cylinder and green mesh inside - has to come out. Can be cleaned and reused if removed with care per initial post above.
 
Nov 21, 2006 at 8:21 AM Post #10 of 17
Art,

A very simple, elegant, DIY (I like it already) technique. Especially handy if you run out of filters and have to wait for a new set, or even bother with a new set. Very nice indeed.

Very kind to offer the cloth at what is obviously at not-for-profit prices. Well, at least until it gets to $20. lol
wink.gif


There is only one small caveat. How do they sound? Can you hear a difference if the filter is in one channel and the cloth in the other?

I ask this due to an old post by Don Wilson in response to some graphs from HeadRoom:

http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showp...&postcount=125

As you can see, the ER-4B and ER-4P are quite well behaved until a break-up node at 14-16kHz. This spike is quite typical of small, stiff drivers. For example, metal dome tweeters typically hit a hard break-up node in the 20kHz region (ringing). No problem there. However, the ER-4S exhibits nodes at 2.5, 5 and 10 kHz in addition to the 14-16 kHz node. Wilson finds this odd, and assumes the ER-4S may be missing the filter when these measurements were taken.

Wilson's comment could be taken to imply that the filter may be as much a filter to tame the high freq peaks at these nodes, as it is an earwax filter. This is likely the case, which would not be unusual, and in fact a clever work-around for such a tiny driver in lieu of adding an actual notch filter circuit, which would be impractical in these tiny phones. I was just wondering if the speaker cloth displayed similar characteristics? Or, if these characteristics are even noticeable? That is, is the filter-less upper end a tad tizzy or bright at certain frequencies (2-4 kHz) compared to the normal filtered unit?

What are your impressions of the comparisons, filtered vs speaker cloth mod?

Thank you.
 
Nov 25, 2006 at 4:39 AM Post #11 of 17
Quote:

Originally Posted by jSatch /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Art,

A very simple, elegant, DIY (I like it already) technique. Especially handy if you run out of filters and have to wait for a new set, or even bother with a new set. Very nice indeed.

Very kind to offer the cloth at what is obviously at not-for-profit prices. Well, at least until it gets to $20. lol
wink.gif


There is only one small caveat. How do they sound? Can you hear a difference if the filter is in one channel and the cloth in the other?

I ask this due to an old post by Don Wilson in response to some graphs from HeadRoom:

http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showp...&postcount=125

As you can see, the ER-4B and ER-4P are quite well behaved until a break-up node at 14-16kHz. This spike is quite typical of small, stiff drivers. For example, metal dome tweeters typically hit a hard break-up node in the 20kHz region (ringing). No problem there. However, the ER-4S exhibits nodes at 2.5, 5 and 10 kHz in addition to the 14-16 kHz node. Wilson finds this odd, and assumes the ER-4S may be missing the filter when these measurements were taken.

Wilson's comment could be taken to imply that the filter may be as much a filter to tame the high freq peaks at these nodes, as it is an earwax filter. This is likely the case, which would not be unusual, and in fact a clever work-around for such a tiny driver in lieu of adding an actual notch filter circuit, which would be impractical in these tiny phones. I was just wondering if the speaker cloth displayed similar characteristics? Or, if these characteristics are even noticeable? That is, is the filter-less upper end a tad tizzy or bright at certain frequencies (2-4 kHz) compared to the normal filtered unit?

What are your impressions of the comparisons, filtered vs speaker cloth mod?

Thank you.



Yes, the filters do affect sound quality. When I changed from the old factory to my cloth filters I noticed renewed detail and brightness - how much of this was due to going from a clogged to unclogged filter is not known.

This was an asset with the ER 4S since the BLAudio amp is smooth and sweet, but did get edgy at times (but still good overall) with the Altec Lansing iM716 used on the bass setting with my iRiver IMP 350 PCDP (I think because of the harshness of the internal amp of the iRiver).

The good news is that I believe you can control this by using a larger piece of cloth as a filter - dampens the highs even more. Dial your own brightness.

As I am sure you know, The higher the frequency or pitch of sound, the more a filter will dampen the sound. These filters don't have much effect on bass notes.
 
Nov 26, 2006 at 2:22 AM Post #12 of 17
Quote:

Originally Posted by drarthurwells /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yes, the filters do affect sound quality. When I changed from the old factory to my cloth filters I noticed renewed detail and brightness - how much of this was due to going from a clogged to unclogged filter is not known.

This was an asset with the ER 4S since the BLAudio amp is smooth and sweet, but did get edgy at times (but still good overall) with the Altec Lansing iM716 used on the bass setting with my iRiver IMP 350 PCDP (I think because of the harshness of the internal amp of the iRiver).



Very nice Art! Very nice indeed.

I'm gonna rummage around to see if I have any old speaker cloth hanging around somewhere. I really like this idea. If I can’t find any, I would certainly appreciate taking you up on your kind offer.


Quote:

Originally Posted by drarthurwells /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The good news is that I believe you can control this by using a larger piece of cloth as a filter - dampens the highs even more. Dial your own brightness.

As I am sure you know, The higher the frequency or pitch of sound, the more a filter will dampen the sound. These filters don't have much effect on bass notes.




Yes, this is esentially what Ety appeared to do with their filters. They probably dialed in the density/thickness/materials until they attenuated the nodes.

Cheers
 
Nov 26, 2006 at 2:57 AM Post #13 of 17
Does any one have any experience with the filters in the shure e4s? There seems to be something inserted into the nozzle (also in the spare nozzles) I was just wondering if any experments have been done with these?

(i did try the search function first)
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Nov 26, 2006 at 7:02 AM Post #14 of 17
drarthurwells;2514503... I noticed renewed detail and brightness - ... [/QUOTE said:
Addenum-

I have removed the pod of my iM716 and have replaced it with discreet resistors, much to the benefit of SQ.

http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showt...ighlight=im716

Should the speaker cloth DIY filter add presence, a lower value of resistor can readily be implemented to counter this effect.

BTW- In your opinion, would you consider the freq response more extended, or would it be primarily a 2 to 4 kHz presence peak?

Thanks.
 
Nov 28, 2006 at 11:49 AM Post #15 of 17
Quote:

Originally Posted by jSatch /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Addenum-

I have removed the pod of my iM716 and have replaced it with discreet resistors, much to the benefit of SQ.

http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showt...ighlight=im716

Should the speaker cloth DIY filter add presence, a lower value of resistor can readily be implemented to counter this effect.

BTW- In your opinion, would you consider the freq response more extended, or would it be primarily a 2 to 4 kHz presence peak?

Thanks.




Filtering has a graded effect - the higher the frequency the more the filter dampens the output. Less filtration will increase output above 6KHz (and more filtration would dampen output above 6 KHz), but either action wouldn't have that much effect on 2 to 4 KHz output. Need a Linkwich-Reilly notch filter to dampen this rise.
 

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