[El_Doug]

On the e24, pins J2A1 and J2A2 serve to connect an LED indicator. However, as I do not comprehend even this ridiculously simple circuit, I cannot tell which goes to the LED "+" terminal, and which goes to the "-" terminal

I have a hunch that J2A1 goes to "+", though I do not trust myself enough to solder the connection just yet.

I'm sure this question was answered in the Head-wize thread... too bad the forum is down

 

[amb]

If you're using a Bulgin (or similar) switch with a single internal LED, or if you're using a separate discrete LED, then LEDA is anode ("+") and LEDB is cathode ("-"). However, if you are populating the thermal sensing function of the ε24 and are using either the bicolor Bulgin switch or two discrete LEDs, then the two LEDs should be wired reverse-parallel, and depending on which color you want illuminated for normal "on" and "overtemp shutdown" modes, you would connect LEDA and LEDB one way or the other.

See the ε24 schematic diagram.

 

[El_Doug]

indeed, i am using a Bulgin with a single internal - thank you for clarifying, and for confirming my suspicions. Again, I did make use of the schematic, I simply do not trust myself reading it

on that note, I do have another question. I am using the Omron G8P-1A2T-F-DC12 relay that is in the recommended parts list. However, I cannot make heads or tails of what connects to each terminal on this relay - the product datasheet is worthless. Which terminals are for mains AC, and does orientation matter? Which are for the relay switching 12vdc, and does that orientation matter?

 

[amb]

Here is how to wire up the Omron G8P SPST-NO relay:

Terminal #
2 -> ε24 RLY+
6 -> ε24 RLY-
3 -> IEC AC "hot"
5 -> to power transformer primary

The orientation between 2/6 and 3/5 can be reversed and it will still work.

The relay's datasheet (on page 5) has drawings to illustrate the function of the terminals.

 

[El_Doug]

Thank you so much for your help!!!

The whole setup worked flawlessly the first time! LED lights, relay switches

That is, once I realized there was no fuse in my IEC...

 

[MrMajestic2]

I have a question about the LED as well. I have a non-bulging antivandal switch that needs 12V, so I'm assuming it already has the resistor built in. Would I be right in thinking I can jumper the R3 position to get 12V to the LED from the e24?

 

[amb]

Yes, that's correct.

 

[MrMajestic2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by amb /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yes, that's correct.

Sweet, thanks for the swift reply as usual

 

[Beefy]

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but this seems to be the most appropriate place......

I too suck at reading schematics, but can normally work my way through if I have good instructions to guide me along. This would normally be the thread on Headwize, but with Headwize still down...... here I am, asking potentially stupid questions

I don't want to use the thermal breakers, and I want the off-board power relay to be always on after the initial momentary button press...... But if possible, I would like to be able to utilise the onboard relay to switch the LED colour of a Bulgin dual-LED switch through signals from an external device.

Can anybody see any way to uncouple the action of the on-board and off-board relays, so that the off-board relay is always on, and the on-board relay is free to switch? And what would be the most appropriate location to hook up an external signal to trigger the relay?

Thanks!

 

[Beefy]

Oh, and while I'm here, I was looking at the Crydom D2402 as my relay.

It offers 48-280VAC line voltage control, and up to 2 amps load current. Unless I am missing something, this should be perfect for 2x 30VA transformers in a DAC?

 

[MrMajestic2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beefy /img/forum/go_quote.gif Oh, and while I'm here, I was looking at the Crydom D2402 as my relay. It offers 48-280VAC line voltage control, and up to 2 amps load current. Unless I am missing something, this should be perfect for 2x 30VA transformers in a DAC?

You could use this one instead, its cheaper and has a higher load rating as well. I used it on several builds.

 

[Beefy]

Thanks MrMajestic, I will keep that one in mind.

I was looking at various solid state relays because the first one recommended by AMB had a good profile and side screw-entry of wires that would allow me to mount the relay on the side of my case more effectively...... when my case and shielded transformers arrive, I will do a proper layout and see whether it is absolutely required.

I also found the Omron G3NA-205B-DC5-24, with better stock levels than the Crydom.

 

[digger945]

Ti will also recommend that when you browse data sheets you look for a SSR with zero crossing.
I used this one with my balanced amp build. It was the most reasonably priced one I could find that would stay "in stock" long enough for me to complete my order.

 

[Beefy]

Thanks digger - good extra option.

I'm pretty sure that both of the ones I have linked are zero cross......

 

[Beefy]

Still wondering whether somebody can help me with working through the question I posted above?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beefy /img/forum/go_quote.gif I too suck at reading schematics, but can normally work my way through if I have good instructions to guide me along. This would normally be the thread on Headwize, but with Headwize still down...... here I am, asking potentially stupid questions I don't want to use the thermal breakers, and I want the off-board power relay to be always on after the initial momentary button press...... But if possible, I would like to be able to utilise the onboard relay to switch the LED colour of a Bulgin dual-LED switch through signals from an external device. Can anybody see any way to uncouple the action of the on-board and off-board relays, so that the off-board relay is always on, and the on-board relay is free to switch? And what would be the most appropriate location to hook up an external signal to trigger the relay?

Thanks!