[KeithEmo]

You basically have two options:
 
Assuming your SoundBlaster has a Coax or Toslink output, you can use that.
 
However, you can also simply use the USB connection anyway. (Your computer will simply see the DC-1 as a (second) USB sound card - and you will be able to switch between the SoundBlaster and the DC-1 by switching sound cards). Most player software will even let you select which sound card it works with so, for example, you could configure FooBar2000 to send stereo music to the DC-1, and whatever you use for movies to send its audio to the SoundBlaster.
 
 
 
Quote:

   
Yes, there a few details I forgot to mention. Once I receive the DC-1, I will want to connect it through a digital connection with the SoundBlaster Z sound card. I do quite a bit of gaming along with listening to music; connecting the DC-1 to the sound card gives me the surround sound when gaming, so I can get the benefits for both of them.
 
Now, since I never play PVP games and prefer SP & strategy games, I may not necessarily need the surround sound no longer. So I would be open to the USB option if that is less of a hassle.

 

[XIX47]

 

 
I did find out that the sound card has a toslink output, so I ordered a toslink cable earlier this morning.
 
Does the DC-1 include an USB cable? A few reviews I have read online suggest that it is included. If so, I can compare both connections to see if there are any differences in SQ.
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I am so unfamiliar with cables so I do feel quite ignorant right now. I did not know Toslink connections/cables existed until now.

 

[DaemonSire]

 

 
KeithEmo is exactly right and how I have mine set up too.
 
I have an Asus Xonar DG with optical out going into the optical in on my DAC.  This way I can have the Dolby headphone surround processing for video games/movies.  The Xonar DG is set as my default sound card.
 
I then have my DAC connected to the computer via USB as well.  Foobar2000 is configured to use that as the default player.
 
So if I listen to music, I just switch it over to USB.  Everything else, just switch to optical.

 

[elwappo99]

Originally Posted by XIX47 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
 
I did find out that the sound card has a toslink output, so I ordered a toslink cable earlier this morning.
 
Does the DC-1 include an USB cable? A few reviews I have read online suggest that it is included. If so, I can compare both connections to see if there are any differences in SQ.
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I am so unfamiliar with cables so I do feel quite ignorant right now. I did not know Toslink connections/cables existed until now.

 
 

Originally Posted by DaemonSire /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
 
KeithEmo is exactly right and how I have mine set up too.
 
I have an Asus Xonar DG with optical out going into the optical in on my DAC.  This way I can have the Dolby headphone surround processing for video games/movies.  The Xonar DG is set as my default sound card.
 
I then have my DAC connected to the computer via USB as well.  Foobar2000 is configured to use that as the default player.
 
So if I listen to music, I just switch it over to USB.  Everything else, just switch to optical.

 
Yup, exactly this. I run a Coax cable from my Asus Xonar ST that I can easily switch to when I'm gaming. Allows me to use the dolby headphone which I enjoy for games. 

 

[elwappo99]

  You basically have two options:
 
Assuming your SoundBlaster has a Coax or Toslink output, you can use that.
 
However, you can also simply use the USB connection anyway. (Your computer will simply see the DC-1 as a (second) USB sound card - and you will be able to switch between the SoundBlaster and the DC-1 by switching sound cards). Most player software will even let you select which sound card it works with so, for example, you could configure FooBar2000 to send stereo music to the DC-1, and whatever you use for movies to send its audio to the SoundBlaster.
 

 
 

 
I did find out that the sound card has a toslink output, so I ordered a toslink cable earlier this morning.
 
Does the DC-1 include an USB cable? A few reviews I have read online suggest that it is included. If so, I can compare both connections to see if there are any differences in SQ.
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I am so unfamiliar with cables so I do feel quite ignorant right now. I did not know Toslink connections/cables existed until now.

 
 
Forgot to also add, I think the DC-1's USB input is quite excellent. Some DACs have really subpar USB implementation, and others have so many issues with drivers, clicking and popping they're pretty much useless. I use the USB on the DC-1 quite a bit, and I've had no issues with it, so I've almost forgotten how many issues that actually do show up. 
 
Once you get it all hooked up with the Optical (toslink) you may want to jump back and forth and compare them, you know for science and all.

 

[XIX47]

Quote:

  Once you get it all hooked up with the Optical (toslink) you may want to jump back and forth and compare them, you know for science and all.

 
I will definitely be comparing the Toslink input vs USB input to see if there are any discern able differences. At first I wanted the optical input since I only have one free USB port available, but I would definitely use it if I like the SQ from it vs the optical input.

 
My DC-1 should arrive tomorrow. I am a bit excited, and hope both its DAC and amp makes my K712's shine over my previous setup.

 

[KeithEmo]

   
I did find out that the sound card has a toslink output, so I ordered a toslink cable earlier this morning.
 
Does the DC-1 include an USB cable? A few reviews I have read online suggest that it is included. If so, I can compare both connections to see if there are any differences in SQ.
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I am so unfamiliar with cables so I do feel quite ignorant right now. I did not know Toslink connections/cables existed until now.

 
The DC-1 does not normally ship with a USB cable (we were adding one in during the last holiday season as a gift).
 
Also note that we don't especially endorse or recommend "fancy audiophile" cables. We sell a nice fancy-looking one with a tech-flex covering for $25-$30, but the $10 ones from Amazon Basics work just fine. (Just avoid really old or really cheesy USB1 only cables.)

 

[XIX47]

Gotcha, I have ordered an USB cable and it should arrive tomorrow.
 
I received the DC-1 with Toslink Cable, and am trying to configure it with my soundcard. Once I figure out how to get everything working, I cannot wait to test it out.

 

[XIX47]

I received the DC-1 yesterday and I am very impressed with it overall. The amp itself drives my K712's at higher volumes than my previous amp. The music sounds more lively and detailed than from before.
 
I do have a question though: how accurate is the volume on the DC-1 in determining how loud I am hearing music/games/movies, etc...? Is the range from +12.00 Db to -100.00 Db on the DC-1 volume control translate to 0 Db to 112 Db? I am wary of exposing myself to the dangerous levels of Db, especially since in the past I tended to listen to my TV at very high volumes. I want to prevent any loss of damage to my ears.

 

[d1sturb3d]

I guess you could start at -40 db and increase the volume from there..I doubt you will reach 0db..

 

[Zoom25]

  I received the DC-1 yesterday and I am very impressed with it overall. The amp itself drives my K712's at higher volumes than my previous amp. The music sounds more lively and detailed than from before.
 
I do have a question though: how accurate is the volume on the DC-1 in determining how loud I am hearing music/games/movies, etc...? Is the range from +12.00 Db to -100.00 Db on the DC-1 volume control translate to 0 Db to 112 Db? I am wary of exposing myself to the dangerous levels of Db, especially since in the past I tended to listen to my TV at very high volumes. I want to prevent any loss of damage to my ears.

 
No. Different headphones will produce varying SPL with their varying sensitivity, FR, and impedance. For example, HE-6 will have lower SPL at any given level in comparison to a Denon or Fostex. There is supposed to be a doubling of energy at 3 dB but humans perceive a doubling of loudness at 6db.
 
For your practical purposes, turn the volume down as low as possible before things get hard to hear. It may take a bit of getting used to. I know I sure did. Once you get used to low to moderate SPLs, your listening sessions will become much more satisfactory as you can listen to a lot longer without fatigue or changing your own threshold of hearing (which happens with loud SPLs).
 
Get one of those iPhone apps that measure SPL. I'm sure there's some cheap/free methods out there to stay safe. Also, if you have to second guess if something's too loud, chances are it's too loud. Be smart and turn down for lil jon.

 

[XIX47]

   
No. Different headphones will produce varying SPL with their varying sensitivity, FR, and impedance. For example, HE-6 will have lower SPL at any given level in comparison to a Denon or Fostex. There is supposed to be a doubling of energy at 3 dB but humans perceive a doubling of loudness at 6db.
 
For your practical purposes, turn the volume down as low as possible before things get hard to hear. It may take a bit of getting used to. I know I sure did. Once you get used to low to moderate SPLs, your listening sessions will become much more satisfactory as you can listen to a lot longer without fatigue or changing your own threshold of hearing (which happens with loud SPLs).
 
Get one of those iPhone apps that measure SPL. I'm sure there's some cheap/free methods out there to stay safe. Also, if you have to second guess if something's too loud, chances are it's too loud. Be smart and turn down for lil jon.

Very interesting. I think my headphones are not very sensitive compared to most but I will take heed with your advice. It is going to be tough though. Old habits die hard...

 

[KeithEmo]

You definitely have to be careful with headphones and volume.
 
We're used to judging loudness based partially on distortion. I remember when I bought my first pair of e-stats (a long time ago); they pretty much didn't distort at any volume setting. This meant that you could keep turning them up and expecting them to eventually get loud - but, because of the way your ears adjust, they never seemed to *get* loud. They sounded clearer when you turned them up, and you heard more detail, but they didn't seem louder. Then I took them off - and everything else seemed *real* quiet for a while...

 
 
Quote:

 
Very interesting. I think my headphones are not very sensitive compared to most but I will take heed with your advice. It is going to be tough though. Old habits die hard...

 

[greenkiwi]

Yeah, when plugging headphones in to a new source, always start with them NOT over your ears... check to make sure the volume is sane and then start listening.

 

[LogicalDisconnect]

Anyone compared the DC-1 with the Dangerous Source as a pre-amp (for powered monitors)?