Easy bass mod for closed AT headphones (pics added)
Dec 15, 2009 at 6:39 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 9

sunneebear

Headphoneus Supremus
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I have a A1000X and I like the sound after this simple mod more than the wood cups that I've tested.

Get eight thin spacers like washers. Metal, nylon, phenolic, plastic, anything will do. Even small O rings. Place it between the cup and the frame. You now have a thin port all around the edge of the cups. Thick washers will get you loose boomy bass. I'm not a bass head so I used the thinnest washers I had. Just enough warmth and bass for my taste.

Please try it and let me know what you think. Since everyone's taste is different, I don't know if it's for everyone. I know that many W5000 owners say the bass is on the light side so I hope some owners will try it. It's more bass, not perfect bass but it's made a likable headphone lovable for me.

On the other hand, if you think your AT headphones are too bassy, apiece of tape over one of the holes on the back of the drives will cut the bass a bit.

Last thing, If it has been done then please excuse me cause I must suck at Googling.
 
Dec 15, 2009 at 8:33 AM Post #2 of 9
The instructions aren't very clear. Where do these washers go? The outside or the inside? What size and diameters are they? Does this require disassembly?

The only place I can see an O-ring fitting on my A700s is, well, on the outside, between cup and frame. But it seems like a job for an elastic, not a washer. Another place could be under the pads, on the inside. They lift up a little, and feel like they could be stuffed up a little.

Pictures would definitely help.
 
Dec 15, 2009 at 8:53 AM Post #3 of 9
Sorry about that.

The washers go on the screws that hold the cup to the frame. Put it in between the cup and the frame so the cups are lifted off the frame. A easy way is to glue, tape or use any inventive way to stick a washer over each hole where the screws go into the cups. Then just screw the cups back on the frame. You just need a very small washer, the size of the screws. I'll get a picture up soon.
 
Dec 15, 2009 at 9:36 AM Post #4 of 9
Here are the pictures.

PC150047.jpg

Remove the four screws under the pad.


PC150050.jpg

Use a washer or anything about this size and thickness.


PC150048.jpg

Glue or tape four washers over the four holes of the cup then reassemble.

That's it. Easily reversible.
 
Dec 19, 2009 at 12:01 AM Post #6 of 9
Quote:

Originally Posted by leeperry /img/forum/go_quote.gif
how does it sound compared to the cd3k btw? the metal cups must give harsh trebles...or?


The treble is not as detailed and finely textured as the CD3000 but it is easier to listen to. The CD3000 sounds kind of bright and harsh with most amps but can sound simply amazing with the right amp. I think its just the 32 ohms of the CD3000. The A1000X like my SA5000 sounds good on almost anything. Before the bass mod, the A1000X did sound slightly tinny but the added bass seemed to balanced out the treble.
 
Dec 19, 2009 at 12:09 AM Post #7 of 9
To the uninitiated of us: What's a washer? The appear in your last picture?

Edit: Nevermind. just googled it. Interesting, Isn't that might make the assembly become more loose and rattle in heavy bass oriented tracks? Or does glueing the washers prevents that?
 
Dec 19, 2009 at 7:27 PM Post #9 of 9
Quote:

Originally Posted by sunneebear /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The treble is not as detailed and finely textured as the CD3000 but it is easier to listen to. The CD3000 sounds kind of bright and harsh with most amps but can sound simply amazing with the right amp. I think its just the 32 ohms of the CD3000. The A1000X like my SA5000 sounds good on almost anything. Before the bass mod, the A1000X did sound slightly tinny but the added bass seemed to balanced out the treble.


ok, thanks for the reply! so indeed the cd3k is hard to kill
sly.gif
 

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