[JAnonymous5150]

I'd recommend TGXear as he covers the shipping and makes hell of an earbud (or earbuds I should say)

I have only tried his Ripples, Serratus, and Alpha. All of them have capable bass in varying quantities, but which TGX model comes to mind when he says he wants something with powerful bass kick (and not too much 2k to 4k as well)? I guess maybe I'm assuming too much by thinking that means significantly elevated bass levels. I tend to do that when people talk about bass because I'm more than happy with modest, moderate bass that's clean as I'm definitely not a basshead. You know TGX's lineup better than I do which is why I'm asking which model came to mind as a rec for him.

 

[ttorbic]

I'd say the Ripples as it has the most delicious mid-bass, comes in steel bell design (which should be comfy for small ears but if in doubt, TGXear can send him some empty shells I think), easy to drive, and has smooth treble.

What sort of music do you listen to @Benno1988?

 

[Benno1988]

Most. Predominantly though would be alternative, metal, rock, indie, prog

 

[ttorbic]

Most. Predominantly though would be alternative, metal, rock, indie, prog

Ah ok, those aren't my preferred genres - @JAnonymous5150, over to you

 

[Surf Monkey]

Most. Predominantly though would be alternative, metal, rock, indie, prog

FF3. They’re excellent for that type of material.

 

[Ronion]

Hey Jogawag, do you happen to have a database of your measurements? I am looking for something like this:
Thanks!

Along with the DLC, the high impedance Be drivers are close. These are just raw driver responses though. It's unclear to me how these are mounted but I wouldn't take these to be equivalent to the way you normally see measurements on the various websites that do them.

 

[b510]

Good day everyone. Please tell me the balanced cable 4.4 for headphones Smabat st 20. Now I use the one that was included in the kit and in my opinion it gives too many upper frequencies and does not reveal the bass completely. I would like to remove some upper frequencies and expand the bass. Sorry for my manner of communication as I am writing this text through google translator.

 

[silverszi]

Along with the DLC, the high impedance Be drivers are close. These are just raw driver responses though. It's unclear to me how these are mounted but I wouldn't take these to be equivalent to the way you normally see measurements on the various websites that do them.

I thought we don't trust bud graphs
tbh those are quite difficult to read and aren't exactly consistent (the Be driver responses are smoothened and the 32/300 DLC has the most ****ed treble I've seen in a bud)

 

[samandhi]

Most. Predominantly though would be alternative, metal, rock, indie, prog

If it were me, I would definitely go for the Yinman 2.0 600. Bear in mind that you will need more power than any of the other bud recommendations to drive these (properly), though they do still sound pretty good even under driven. They are warm, bassy, and the treble is smooth while remaining really clear and open (the signature is actually sort of like a nice tube amp which is great for the type of music mentioned to be honest and IMO).

While I might also recommend the FF3, I am a fellow "2K-4K sensitive" person and while the FF3 aren't super offensive, they can become fatiguing after a time, especially while listening to the genres mentioned, and with any sort of volume. I am totally not saying to stay away from them because even being sensitive to that area, I love them as well, and the bass on these is really lovely. Also, keep in mind the foams that come with any of the FiiO buds make a HUGE difference in this area for my ears, so there is that to consider as well.

I would also most likely recommend to stay away from the Yincrow family as well. Again, I absolutely love them, and have both of them, but they actually are more offensive/fatiguing than the FF3 where the upper mids/lower treble are concerned for those that are sensitive and for any sort of metal.

Though if asked and to my ears, I think that overall, the Yincrow RW2000 have more quantity of bass than do the RW3000. Having said that, the RW3000 have more mid bass focus and don't really go that deep in the sub, while the RW2000 have more of a linear tuning making them have more sub, and a bit less mid bass. This would make them sound sort of "bass light" with most metal and/older recordings though, compared to the more mid bass focused RW3000 (IME).

There is also the FiiO FF5 to consider. These are very open and airy (especially compared to the FF3) and aren't quite as warm as the FF3, but they also lack any sort of "offensive" tuning at all. They don't have the sub bass presence that the FF3 have, but they DO have very good mid bass for a good kick in music that doesn't require sub bass (metal, old rock, etc...).

Overall, my two major recommendations for what you have described would be the Yinman 2.0 600, and the FiiO FF5. All of the others on the list are great, and you might find joy in all of them (because they all really are indeed great and TOTL), but the two (Yinman 2.0 600 & FiiO FF5) fit your criteria best IMHO.

Also, keep in mind that I am totally not telling you to NOT listen to @JAnonymous5150's recommendations because he has some good ears. I am only bringing up a little difference in preference based on the fact that his ears aren't sensitive to that region at all, where some of the buds he has that don't bother him actually hurt my ears, they are so bad in that area (for me). Also, the genres you listed are the main ones I also listen to most times (as well as some 90's R&B, and 80's pop among others that are different). I also don't own any of the DIY brands that you can purchase, so I cannot give recommendations that might include those.

 

[samandhi]

Good day everyone. Please tell me the balanced cable 4.4 for headphones Smabat st 20. Now I use the one that was included in the kit and in my opinion it gives too many upper frequencies and does not reveal the bass completely. I would like to remove some upper frequencies and expand the bass. Sorry for my manner of communication as I am writing this text through google translator.

While I don't own those, I have read on here that there isn't much you can do to change the boosted upper mid/lower treble on these. @Ronion and others on here have/had a set and from what I remember, EQ is really the only thing that can change this.

Having said that you could try a pure copper cable on these. The change (normally) is very subtle so I am not sure if you will hear the difference, but this sort of cable would normally do the trick on (normal) BA timbre.

I have/had the same issue with the Smabat M4 using the ST20 driver, and I even tried using materials to "re tune" them, and they never reached the satisfactory sound I was looking for.

 

[Ronion]

I thought we don't trust bud graphs
tbh those are quite difficult to read and aren't exactly consistent (the Be driver responses are smoothened and the 32/300 DLC has the most ****ed treble I've seen in a bud)

Maybe you don't trust bud graphs, but I am of a different predilection. That said, I wrote right in my post that you can't 'trust' these graphs, but the OP was asking for graphs of that shape so I obliged. When I measure the high impedance Be drivers, their treble is indeed smooth FWIW.

In all seriousness, bud graphs are just as useful as any other graph for headphones. Unfortunately not a lot of bud graphers have a proper rig for such a thing. Many of the graphs on AE look like they are pressing the driver right up to a mic. It's not going to be very helpful, but believe it or not, the treble end of things and the shape, slope and peaks and valleys are actually helpful for tuning buds. You can actually read what is possible from a tuning perspective just because you've graphed enough buds and tuned them graphing every step of the way. You can even see the diaphragm characteristics of the cones in these graphs. If you are getting expletive treble from the DLC or CNT, your diaphragm is likely crumpled. Try sucking the face of it gently. If you go too hard you will destroy the driver and I'm not responsible for your actions. Just letting you know that you don't have to live with bad treble from the DLC. Muted treble, "yes" (unless you tune it out, but you're in a game of whack-a-Mole) but it will have worse effects elsewhere IMO.

 

[JAnonymous5150]

Ah ok, those aren't my preferred genres - @JAnonymous5150, over to you

Whoopsy, guess I checked out at the wrong time, eh?

Edit: Forgot to give knuckles back

 

[JAnonymous5150]

Also, keep in mind that I am totally not telling you to NOT listen to @JAnonymous5150's recommendations because he has some good ears. I am only bringing up a little difference in preference based on the fact that his ears aren't sensitive to that region at all, where some of the buds he has that don't bother him actually hurt my ears, they are so bad in that area (for me)

Exactly why I was hoping some others would jump in with some recs. When someone says they want buds without too much 2k to 4k that's where I know I need someone else's ears to step in. I am definitely okay with more elevation in that region that many/most. Thanks for the backup, bro!

Listen to @samandhi . He's got ears/prefs that are probably closer to yours and he's been at the earbuds game longer than I have. I might have packed a lot of listening into 14 months and I have plenty of hifi/headgear expetience elsewhere, but I'm still relatively new to the earbuds game.

 

[Ronion]

While I don't own those, I have read on here that there isn't much you can do to change the boosted upper mid/lower treble on these. @Ronion and others on here have/had a set and from what I remember, EQ is really the only thing that can change this.

Having said that you could try a pure copper cable on these. The change (normally) is very subtle so I am not sure if you will hear the difference, but this sort of cable would normally do the trick on (normal) BA timbre.

I have/had the same issue with the Smabat M4 using the ST20 driver, and I even tried using materials to "re tune" them, and they never reached the satisfactory sound I was looking for.

Some day I am going to take them apart and build a proper crossover for them (mine are the "pro" version). Then I suspect they will be awesome, but until I get that kind of thyme, aggressive EQ is the only way to go. Well, actually @FranQL took his ST20 apart and retuned them to his liking. His had a weird wiring defect (like a polarity reversal on one driver) if I remember correctly.

 

[samandhi]

Exactly why I was hoping some others would jump in with some recs. When someone says they want buds without too much 2k to 4k that's where I know I need someone else's ears to step in. I am definitely okay with more elevation in that region that many/most. Thanks for the backup, bro!

Any time bro!

After all, we are all here to enjoy this tremendous hobby we have found and share it with others of like mind, and (IMO) also to best help those that are new or looking for the best for their ears.

Some day I am going to take them apart and build a proper crossover for them (mine are the "pro" version). Then I suspect they will be awesome, but until I get that kind of thyme, aggressive EQ is the only way to go. Well, actually @FranQL took his ST20 apart and retuned them to his liking. His had a weird wiring defect (like a polarity reversal on one driver) if I remember correctly.

WOW! It is great to see you posting in here. I for one have missed hearing from you.

That would indeed be a cool experiment, but is there even enough room to put a crossover in there? I hope you DO get time to do this, because I would love to hear how it goes.

In the meantime, figure out how to fix the sound on the M4 would ya'??? ROFL In all seriousness though, I don't hold out much hope for the M4 because there is just NO room between the driver and the back of the shell other than the tiny hole where the filter goes (which doesn't help the upper mid "ice pick" BTW (at least not enough to make a difference).

The problem with this is that I absolutely love everything about the M4 EXCEPT the sound, and even that wouldn't be so bad if they didn't hurt to listen to them...