[palchiu]

I think many people will get cross-1 pcb after few days later.

So, I create this discussion for built, parts choosing, upgrade...

Any suggest or what you think, please share your experience and your kindly advice here.

Thanks for your inputs!!!



[size=large]Dr.Meier, Thanks you for these free pcbs!!![/size]


[size=xx-small]Any mistake with English spelling, please let me know! [/size]

 

[rickcr42]

[size=medium]Dr.Meier, Thanks you for these free pcbs!!![/size]

Works as a "Thank you" thread also.

I have a few "outside the box" ideas but need to have the physical board in front of me before ordering parts.I need to know if a certain part I may want to try will actually fit,can fit with a bit of yankee ingenuity or if I need to go to plan-B at that point and settle for something else.

If at the end i feel I shortchanged myself and made something I know could be made better then maybe I will break out a strip-board V2 projectr and post all the dirty little details of how Frankenfeed came to be

And your english is fine.Hopefully you can understand ME !

My spoken language is "rickanese" , a combination of New York/New England Slang and Rick-speak

 

[headchange4u]

I had been reading up on the Cross-1 for the last couple of days. I have missed the whole "Free PCB" thing. Is it possible to still get a PCB because I would REALLY like to build one of these. Where to I go to order them (I am willing to pay for one if need be

)? TIA!


EDIT:
Nevermind. I found the info I needed.

 

[NeilR]

I have a couple boards and panels on the way.

Let's start by discussing some "in the box" ideas, such as sourcing a case (USA for me) that will take advantage of those nice panels.

Any ideas?

 

[palchiu]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tess I dont think they are Hammond cases, look more like these. http://www.elfa.se/elfa-bin/setpage....?prev=4355.htm

Thanks tess!

But I didn't have cross, can't sure which type will fit the panel.



And we need to find out these parts number for Lorlin & C&K switch.
Mouser catalog: Lorlin switch catalog from Mouser
Cross-1 needs 2X6*2, 4X3*1
Brake before make? Make before brake?

Mouser p/n:611-7201-064 for 2X2 switch?

Any comments?

 

[palchiu]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rickcr42 And your english is fine.Hopefully you can understand ME ! My spoken language is "rickanese" , a combination of New York/New England Slang and Rick-speak

Ha~ no problem for reading, but I need half hour... with dictionary....

 

[NeilR]

palchiu,

I saw that post but I can't even read that language well enough to figure out what country it is in (nor did I dig into the site much). I'm lazy so I was looking for a possible USA source. If they ship overseas I guess that is what we will have to do. First step will be to measure the panels to see which size is needed.

The switches are the other biggie but that should be easier.

 

[klemchang]

Quote:

Originally Posted by palchiu Brake before make? Make before brake? Mouser p/n:611-7201-064 for 2X2 switch? Any comments?

I think make-before-break (also called shorting) is the right one to use. For make-before-break switches the probe connects the next pad before break the previous pad. For break-before-make ones you might hear a "pop" sound because during the transition the circuit is open.

 

[rickcr42]

Quote:

For break-before-make ones you might hear a "pop" sound because during the transition the circuit is open

Only a problem if you also switch the grounds at the same time.When you are talking about networks such as in this case and that they would be in parallel for that split second of switching a make-before-break switch may cause unforseen problems.

Seems right anyway

 

[Blooze]

I used Mouser #10WA365 and #10WA367 Lorlin switches when I built mine. No "pop". Hope this helps.

 

[Blooze]

I'm curious as to what part will be used here. It's my understanding that a 4 pole switch like used on the Meier Bass Enhanced Lite Xfeed on PinkFloyd's site is better than using a double pole switch to actually bypass the xfeed. I used the 4P on my lite version that I have on my SOHA and it seems to work great. Better than the DP I used on my airwired Cross.

 

[rickcr42]

The Cross-1 does use a 4PDT switch.Made by C&K,silver contacts,etc....

 

[Blooze]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rickcr42 The Cross-1 does use a 4PDT switch.Made by C&K,silver contacts,etc....

I was just looking at the pics on Jan's site and the number of contacts for the switch he has totals 6 like a DPDT, where the one on RockGrotto has 12 and is a 4P on-off-on switch. I don't know that much about switches so maybe I'm just mistaken.

 

[rickcr42]

You are right,I am wrong.

S-O is DPDT and shorts out the network

 

[Nisbeth]

Does anyone know where to get that C&K switch? A manufacturer p/n would also be helpful as I might have to start looking for compatibles

/U.