Crack;Bottlehead OTL
Dec 18, 2014 at 5:05 PM Post #6,332 of 12,347
I'm joining the club, Crack + Speedball on its way 
biggrin.gif

 
Now I need to see what tools I need to buy, cause I'm bare naked regarding that.
 
Dec 18, 2014 at 9:15 PM Post #6,333 of 12,347
I thought it was quiet too, but yesterday after 1 hour of listening the noise came in. It is lower frequency than with 5998, but it is still there, and it goes quiet when tapped like with the 5998. Previously both tubes were perfectly silent. Less than a month ago that noise appeared for the first time. But if both tubes react the same, then the tube(s) should not be the cause. That squeal does not get louder with volume. I change out electrolytic caps today and see if anything changes. 


Radio interference. Dimmer, cell phone, router, wifi nearby?
 
Dec 19, 2014 at 1:49 PM Post #6,334 of 12,347
Tube squeal is an oscillation. It is often caused by contaminants making a connection in the signal path less than perfect. So cleaning tube pins and sockets is always a good place to start. It might be worth running the amp in a configuration that allows you to move parts under the chassis while it is misbehaving to see if one particular part or connection is the cuplrit. Using a non conductive probe like a chopstick is a good way to gently push on parts to see if it helps.
 
Dec 20, 2014 at 8:18 AM Post #6,337 of 12,347
  How is this solder iron for the crack?
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291148382103?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 
80W is more than ample, it might be to hot! Something with variable temperature can be found at a similar price
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50-Watt-Soldering-Station-Iron-/351258230886?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item51c89f4066
 
I have been using one of these solder stations and have been pleased with it (Maplins also sells different sized spare tips). 
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/60W-ESD-PROTECTION-LCD-SOLDERING-IRON-STATION-NEW-/201098498782?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item2ed26792de
 
Dec 21, 2014 at 1:39 PM Post #6,338 of 12,347
Tube squeal is an oscillation. It is often caused by contaminants making a connection in the signal path less than perfect. So cleaning tube pins and sockets is always a good place to start. It might be worth running the amp in a configuration that allows you to move parts under the chassis while it is misbehaving to see if one particular part or connection is the cuplrit. Using a non conductive probe like a chopstick is a good way to gently push on parts to see if it helps.



One small thing I discovered. When the tube is making squeal, then when I unplug the headphones and then plug them in again it goes quiet. Have tested it 5 times, and it works everytime.
 
Dec 22, 2014 at 4:48 PM Post #6,339 of 12,347
While waiting for the Crack I put together a rough plan for finding the best setup for my ears.
Input will be uncompressed PCM via Mac mini -> Audirvana via USB -> DAC via RCA -> Crack.
 
1. find right place and power supply setup for minimum interferences
2. decision for the headphone (HD 600 vs. DT 990 old vs. DT 880 old)
3. decision for the right DAC (Audinst vs. ?)
4. some tube-rolling (differences between tubes are less significant after speedball)
——-
After that the Crack should have the right tonality for my ears.
 
5. Speedball-upgrade
6. VALab ladder stepped attenuator (after Speedball and tonality set up the attenuator should prove, that the stock pot was audible „in the way“ for the smaller details if it wants to stay in place)
7. Mundorf output caps - it´s time to look for nuances in tonality and bass presentation
8. playing around with DACs DSP-settings and oversampling
9. optional: bypass output caps (only if get a good deal)
 
In each step (besides 5.) a decision has to be made before going on and should be enough listening time to do so.
 
What do you think?
 
Dec 23, 2014 at 10:39 PM Post #6,340 of 12,347
  I'm joining the club, Crack + Speedball on its way 
biggrin.gif

 
Now I need to see what tools I need to buy, cause I'm bare naked regarding that.

 
I just put together my Crack/Speedball recently so I know which tools you're going to need and some tips for the process.
 
You're going to need a couple of tools...
 
Solder
Solder Wire
Solder Tip Cleaner
Very small pointed pliers (the smaller the better to get those wires wrapped around those terminals easier)
Very small wire clippers (to cut wires and to remove excess wire after soldering, the smaller the better)
Wire stripper
Solder sucker (you're going to need it if you haven't soldered before)
Screw driver for small screws
Helping hands (to hold Speedball PC boards while you solder in the parts)
 
 
Important: After you're done assembling it you're definitely going to need a voltmeter to make sure all the connections are good.
 
                 Also, make sure you have all the bands for your resistors, rectifiers, etc. pointed towards the proper side or it won't run properly!
 
I would suggest practicing soldering a few times before applying it on the Crack. Just take your time, follow the directions to a T,                      and you should be good. 
 
Good luck with your build and all the best Kyno!
 
Dec 24, 2014 at 12:43 AM Post #6,343 of 12,347
The addiction of DIY, you mean :wink:

You'll love the Mainline!

 Yes the addiction of DIY. I'm a mechnical engineering student and have been since i was 17 and 7 years on i'm still enjoying it. Building things has always been a joy especially when it works. Sadly have minimal knowledge on electrical engineering. Building it up is a piece of cake when there is a manual however when it comes to custom DIY circuitry upgrades onto the crack i'm a little scared to do it unless i'm really sure what i'm doing ... haha Don't wanna blow up my amp ... haha But have been trying to do some self studying on electrical cuircuits and all. Hopefully the electrical module I will be taking next sem will provide me with more knowledge 
 

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