[DemonicLemming]

It could be that the ECU simply needs to "relearn" everything.  Try driving the car around for a couple days and see if the problems clear up; it normally takes a couple of good driving cycles for the ECU to really settle back in.  Also, did you clean the cable terminals before putting the new battery in?  I've seen some very strange things happen to cars because of a loose or dirty battery connection that 2 minutes with a wire brush fixed right up.
 
Is the car throwing any sort of check engine code?  If so, Advance Auto or Auto Zone can scan those for free and give you the numerical DTC code (if they tell you what you need to replace, ask them what the actual DTC code is - something like P0134, etc), and you can check a couple of different places online to see what that DTC code is related to.
 
As far as the "idle control sensor", I poked around a bit and couldn't find anything other than the standard idle air control valve (unfortunately, still expensive at $230).  Is it the I4 or V6 Camry?
 
Quote:

I recently replaced my car battery.  After I started up the car for the first time the engine seemed to be struggling to idle.  It was pulsating between <200 RPM and about 500 RPM.  So I immediately decided to take it to a repair shop and pulled out of my drive way.  On the way out the engine completely stalled, and then it completely stalled at every red light I hit on the way to the shop. Had to restart the car each time.  
 
The mechanics told me it was the "idle control sensor" which needed to be replaced and since it's next to impossible to find just an idle control sensor for my '03 Toyota Camry they said it would cost about $900 to replace the whole throttle body.
 
I ended up just leaving and driving the car around for a few miles and then the car stopped stalling: idling steadily at about 500RPM.  Still not optimal since I seem to recall it idling at just shy of 1K RPM before I replaced the battery.  So do you think it will return to that level eventually or does idling steady at 500RPM even after about 30 mi. of driving seem like a bigger problem?
 
My amp funds are at stake!
 
 

 

 

[sphinxvc]

Quote:

It could be that the ECU simply needs to "relearn" everything.  Try driving the car around for a couple days and see if the problems clear up; it normally takes a couple of good driving cycles for the ECU to really settle back in.  Also, did you clean the cable terminals before putting the new battery in?  I've seen some very strange things happen to cars because of a loose or dirty battery connection that 2 minutes with a wire brush fixed right up.
 
Is the car throwing any sort of check engine code?  If so, Advance Auto or Auto Zone can scan those for free and give you the numerical DTC code (if they tell you what you need to replace, ask them what the actual DTC code is - something like P0134, etc), and you can check a couple of different places online to see what that DTC code is related to.
 
As far as the "idle control sensor", I poked around a bit and couldn't find anything other than the standard idle air control valve (unfortunately, still expensive at $230).  Is it the I4 or V6 Camry?
 

Yeah I did clean the terminals.  No check engine light so far, I'm leaning towards the 'drive around for a bit and see if the ECU adjusts' as well.  "Idle control sensor" is what the mechanic told me, I carried it straight to google and to a knowledgable friend of mine who told me the same thing, "no such thing on your model Camry."  It's a 2.4L '03 Camry.  Not sure if it's a 4 or V6, it's my father's, I never looked into any details when he bought it.
 
Hoping the problem just goes away with a few more miles.  
 
Thanks for the help.
 

 

[SP Wild]

Quote:

Quote:

Yeah I did clean the terminals.  No check engine light so far, I'm leaning towards the 'drive around for a bit and see if the ECU adjusts' as well.  "Idle control sensor" is what the mechanic told me, I carried it straight to google and to a knowledgable friend of mine who told me the same thing, "no such thing on your model Camry."  It's a 2.4L '03 Camry.  Not sure if it's a 4 or V6, it's my father's, I never looked into any details when he bought it.
 
Hoping the problem just goes away with a few more miles.  
 
Thanks for the help.
 

 
Look into this PDF I dug up:
 
http://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0Toyota%20RAV4%20Repair%20Manual/2AZ-FE%20Engine%20Control%20System/SFI%20System/0050040.pdf
 
The only learning the ECU does is the air flow volume for idle.  This is dictated by the Idle Air Control Valve (no such thing as an "idle control sensor" in any car) and from what I can gather this does not come as a separate unit but is integral to the throttle valve.  Air leaks in the crankcase ventilation system (PCV) and induction will throw the measurement out the window.
 
The only thing I can recommend you try yourself if the extra kays don't do it is this:
 
http://wn.com/Camry_Idle_Air_Control_Valve_Cleaning
 
I can't watch downloads as it is too heavy on the megabytes and is too costly for me on my service.  You need to be at least able to remove the intake pipe between the air filter and the throttle body and anything else that is in your way.
 
Failing this, take it to an authorised Toyota repair center.
 
Hope this helps.
 

 

[sphinxvc]

Quote:

Look into this PDF I dug up:
 
http://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0Toyota%20RAV4%20Repair%20Manual/2AZ-FE%20Engine%20Control%20System/SFI%20System/0050040.pdf
 
The only learning the ECU does is the air flow volume for idle.  This is dictated by the Idle Air Control Valve (no such thing as an "idle control sensor" in any car) and from what I can gather this does not come as a separate unit but is integral to the throttle valve.  Air leaks in the crankcase ventilation system (PCV) and induction will throw the measurement out the window.
 
The only thing I can recommend you try yourself if the extra kays don't do it is this:
 
http://wn.com/Camry_Idle_Air_Control_Valve_Cleaning
 
I can't watch downloads as it is too heavy on the megabytes and is too costly for me on my service.  You need to be at least able to remove the intake pipe between the air filter and the throttle body and anything else that is in your way.
 
Failing this, take it to an authorised Toyota repair center.
 
Hope this helps.
 

 
Thanks SP, I'll look into this.  

 

[basketball]

..............

 

[Chris J]

Synthetic Oil for my ride:
 
good idea?
or waste of money?
 
My ride is a Hyundai Genensis Coupe 2.0T

 

[basketball]

Synthetic Oil for my ride:

good idea?
or waste of money?

My ride is a Hyundai Genensis Coupe 2.0T

Depends what time of climate you live in. If you life in. Cold climate synthetic oil makes the engine easier and quicker to start.

Oh and synthetic oil requires less oil changes.

I recommend amsoil.

 

[Chris J]

Quote:

Depends what time of climate you live in. If you life in. Cold climate synthetic oil makes the engine easier and quicker to start.
Oh and synthetic oil requires less oil changes.
I recommend amsoil.

 
The Frozen North.
Think Tundra.
 
Actually I live close to Toronto, weather similar to Chicago, but with less wind.
A lot less wind.
 
Any thoughts on Mobil 1?

 

[basketball]

The Frozen North.
Think Tundra.

Actually I live close to Toronto, weather similar to Chicago, but with less wind.
A lot less wind.

Any thoughts on Mobil 1?

I live in Alberta. To be honest when you use conventional or synthetic oil for the first 2-3000 km I'd say they perform the same. Its when you go beyond that the synthetic oil is more reliable.

Amsoil is the best oil period if you ask any mechanic or autoparts salesman I'm sure they'd recommend amsoil. But Mobil 1 is probably the second the best choice, it may be slightly cheaper. Amsoil has immense reliability, I use it in 2 cars.

 

[Chris J]

When should I do the first oil change?

 

[basketball]

Depends when your did you last one. Generally it is Recommend to to an oil change every 5000k. With ams oil you could easily do 10k. No joke.

 

[Chris J]

Depends when your did you last one. Generally it is Recommend to to an oil change every 5000k. With ams oil you could easily do 10k. No joke.

When should I do the very first one on a new car?
Engine is a 2.0 Litre turbo, car is a Hyundai Genesis Coupe.

 

[basketball]

It is recommended the first oil change be with conventional and then after that switch over to synthetic. But, every 5000k is recommended. 

 

[arnesto]

I was thinking about getting the new Corvette C7 model when it comes out next year.
 
Do you think I should get it with manual or automatic?
 
I used to drive manual on an old truck and didn't like it that much, but this is a sports car and I think it will be much better experience.
 
I was planning on test driving both types before I make the final decision.
 
Any advise?

 

[basketball]

Well it depends. Are you a die hard corvette or american car fanatic? If you are, you're choices you have are pretty much only the corvette and viper and a ford gt(used of course)
 
Another factor that comes into play is how much you are willing to spend. If you have a budget then go with the corvette. If you dont you should look into other options.
 
Honestly if i didnt have a budget I;d buy a ferrari 458 italia. It has a F1 transmission. You mentioned you didn;t like manual so there you go.
 
If you don;t like the ferrari brand. There is the Lamborghini Aventador.
 
Realistically though, if I was you and I had a budget which is probably the case. I would buy a used Porsche 911. And the good thing with the newer porsches are they have the best transmissons in the industry. The automatic they have, the PDK is said to be the best automatic. And their Manual transmissions are supposibly awesome.