Audio Technica ATH-6 (electret): how do you connect it?
Jan 28, 2007 at 1:04 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 16

Uncle Erik

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I got lucky today. I was at the TRW Swapmeet in Los Angeles this morning and spotted an interesting pair of headphones at one booth. I picked them up, and saw that they were Audio Techinica electrets with the transformer box. I asked the owner what he wanted, and he said he'd take $20 for them. He got $20.

I ran a few other errands this morning, got back and just ran a search for ATH-6 here. Wow. Nothing came up. Not much on Google, either.

I need a little help with these. The transformer box has a cable with four wires coming out: red, black, white, and blue. I'm pretty sure these are to be hooked to an amp, but how? I suppose I could sound them out with an amp and a DMM, but I wanted to see if anyone here knew. Also, since there hasn't been an ATH-6 thread here, I thought we should have one.

I can't wait to hear what these are like. If they work, they're making a trip to the National Meet.
 
Jan 28, 2007 at 2:25 AM Post #2 of 16
Sweet deal. I've eyed those when I see them for sale every now and then, but they never go for anything like $20. Hey, if you don't like them, I'll trade you my ATH-3 for your ATH-6! (fyi, this would be a terrible, terrible trade. My worst random headphone purchase to date.)

best, FV
 
Jan 28, 2007 at 2:28 AM Post #3 of 16
If you want an ATH-5 to accompany it, I'll sell you one for less than $20.
tongue.gif
 
Jan 28, 2007 at 3:57 AM Post #4 of 16
Cool, another ATH-6 finds its way to HF. I grabbed a relatively inexpensive ($53 shipped) NIB set awhile back-- I confess, for no reason, less than no reason whatsoever, although I wanted to experience a set of ATH-6/7/8 earpads with the original vinyl intact before I died.

Not much of a reason, really.


To answer your question, the red/black pair is +/- R, the white/blue pair is +/- L.


I think I'll unwrap mine and hook 'em up and compare 'em to the SRD-7 Pro/Lambda Pro I'm listening to now on the Pana SA-XR25 digital receiver. The 6 appears to be an ATH-7 with a less expensive transformer box. The only problem is that the 6 uses the DIN connector of the previous generation A-T electrets and can't plug into the transformer box of the ATH-7 or ATH-8 (aka Signet TK33). Pfui.

From the date code on the bottom of the box, I'd place the date of manufacture of my ATH-6 at 1982.

Comparative specs from the owner's manual, which serves both 6 and 7:

The 6's freq response spec is +/-3dB,40 to 22k; the 7 is +/-2dB, 20--22k.

(Based on experience with Stax's SRD-6 and SRD-7, I'd say this and all the other differences are due to the transformer box, not the 'phones.)

Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) is 0.35% for the 6, 0.25% for the 7.

Sensitivity, weight, cord length, etc. are identical. The 6's transformer box is heavy but very small, on the order of a pack of cigarettes, but more square.

Back in a few with some listening tests.

.
 
Jan 28, 2007 at 5:33 AM Post #8 of 16
I'm listening to the underrated Rachael Yamagata's Happenstance album fed into the XR25 optically from my faithful little Sony D-EJ715.

I should also say that being used to things like sixth-order ported speaker alignments where the woofer is overdamped, then brought back up with bass EQ, I don't judge a 'phone merely on its performance on the level-- if a 'phone can straighten out its response curve when fed simple shelving/tilting EQ without breaking up, I give it that EQ and judge its sound at that point.

It's also worth noting that the ATH-6/7/8 all have a driver that's approximately 50mm in diameter-- small for an electrostat.

The first thing I notice is the 6 is about 20 steps on the XR25's volume control less efficient than the Lambda Pro. If each step is 1 or 2dB, that's 10 or 20dB, a pretty big difference. Tricky to switch from the Stax to the A-T to make comparisons. The 6 has a typical '70s 'phone response curve, a "frownie", requiring a "smiley" on a graphic EQ to even it out. The top of the frown is at that magic Sennheiser frequency, about 2kHz, so they sound a little like the old HD 414, to which they're much more closely related timewise than to us and our computer-designed wonderphones.

However, the 6 responds pretty well to simple Baxandall-type tone controls, such as the ones found on the XR25. The 6's little transformer box doesn't really want 10dB of bass boost, but it'll take it, and with an equal amount of treble laid on, the sound un-frowns to give you a tight, forward, punchy sound that's still not talking too loud below say 50 Hz or above 12kHz, which looks bad, but turns out to be perfectly satisfactory until you switch back to the Lambdas, which have what sounds like an octave more to offer on both ends and a liquid smoothness to boot. The Lambda is a whole 'nother world, and it should be, since it cost [me] 7 times as much.

When EQ'd, the 6 is reminiscent of the AKG K501, which gives you an idea how far dynamics have come, but the 6 is still superior in the overall tightness of its sound, and of course the K501 was twice the cost on closeout.

By the way, that peak around 2k turns into a little hillock that remains even after you apply EQ. You can get an idea of what some extra acoustic resistance behind the drivers would do to the sound by slowly closing your hands around the backs of the open driver cups. Does it sound better to you that way? It does to me, but soundstage would, of course, suffer.

An entertaining 'phone, though not a convincing demonstrator of electrostatic sound for today's listeners. Was it better than most of the similarly-priced competition in 1978, when both it and Rachael Yamagata were introduced to the world? You betcha. Is it worth 50 bucks? Ehh, call it 40.

EDIT FO THE RELIEF OF THE PAIN OF PIXLESSNESS: Conspiratorially enough, the A-Ts of this period look spookily like the slightly later Stax SR-30 (US market designation) electrets, and more or less exactly like one another-- without the graphics printed on the side, you'd be hard-pressed to tell a 6 from a 7 from an 8 from a 70 from an 80. The photo below left is of the later ATH-70, but it looks exactly like the 6. At lower right is the Stax SR-30 Pro, which if offered at a reasonable price is a better buy than the A-T, if only because it's compatible with all present-day Stax amps and energisers (aka transformer boxen). More bass, too, but the cups are deeper and less elegant.

ATH-70a-e.jpg
StaxSR-34Procombo-e.jpg


.
 
Jan 28, 2007 at 3:30 PM Post #10 of 16
Quote:

Originally Posted by wualta /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I'm listening to the underrated Rachel Yamagata's Happenstance album


x2

I love that album!
 
Jun 10, 2011 at 8:48 PM Post #11 of 16
Hey Guys, new to the forum.
I own a pair of ATH-6 that I bought back in 1982 or 1983. I loved the sound of these cans. I was just out of college and I treated myself.
 
I enjoyed them for years until I got divorced and had to pack them away. recently I pulled them our of storage only to find the pads are deteriorated and I only get sound from the left.
 
I hooked them into a makeshift stereo and switched the wires around and I think the problem might be in the box. I am thinking of taking it apart and reheating the solders where the wires connect to see if that fixes the problem.
 
But if it does not work does Walta have any suggestions on:

Replacing the pads, will a modern day pad from new headphones make a good substitution?
Replacing the box. I don't know if there is a box out there that accomplished whatever this box does.Impedence matching maybe?
Is it possible to replace the cable to a standard plug and use a modern box to help with impedance.
 
Any help appreciated. I am buying new cans, but I would like to revive these for nostalgic reasons.
 
Cheers
 
Jan 15, 2013 at 10:17 PM Post #12 of 16
Hello all...
 
I have a pair of ATH-6s which I bought new back in the late 1970's. In fact I still have the original users manual and would be happy to share a PDF copy via email tho those who need a copy.  Just drop me an email...
 
BTW,  that manual is dated 1978.
 
 
The wiring diagram is as follows:
 
Red/Black is Right +/-
White/Blue is Left +/-
 
A with so many others ATH-6 owners, the vinyl covering on the ear pads peeled off.  Just a foam pad covered by the cloth backing material from the original vinyl still remains.  I have not found a good solution as replacements have not been available for many, many years.  Now that is also deteriorating.
 
Anyone find a solution, let me know please.
 
Nov 5, 2014 at 11:29 AM Post #13 of 16
I have had these headphones for 30 years, they are great, you hook them up to the speaker terminals just like you wood a pair of speakers I use speaker B terminals the volume is controlled by the main speaker volume switch
 
Oct 22, 2020 at 3:10 PM Post #14 of 16
I have had these headphones for 30 years, they are great, you hook them up to the speaker terminals just like you wood a pair of speakers I use speaker B terminals the volume is controlled by the main speaker volume switch

Could you connect them to RCA outputs?
 
Jan 9, 2022 at 10:19 PM Post #15 of 16
Cool, another ATH-6 finds its way to HF. I grabbed a relatively inexpensive ($53 shipped) NIB set awhile back-- I confess, for no reason, less than no reason whatsoever, although I wanted to experience a set of ATH-6/7/8 earpads with the original vinyl intact before I died.

(Based on experience with Stax's SRD-6 and SRD-7, I'd say this and all the other differences are due to the transformer box, not the 'phones.)

Notice however that ATH-8/ATH-80 are different headphones with different – and superior – sound than ATH-7. I got all three driver units and ATH-7, ATH-70 and ATH-80 headphones. Plugging ATH-7 into ATH-8 or ATH-80 driver you won’t get the same sound as with ATH-80 headphones.
 

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