An inverting version of the O2 headphone amp vs. the original......DIY at its Best!!
Jan 3, 2016 at 10:29 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 24

adydula

Headphoneus Supremus
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Hello!
 
I have built several O2's.
 
A very special desktop type called the ODA, by AGDR over at diyaudio.com and now after going thru many other amps and headphones have built this new inverting type of headphone amp....similar to the O2 topology.
 
I have always wondered if the O2 had inverting amplifier stages for the gain and output sections instead of non-inverting?
 
Well wonder no longer.....you can read about it at diyaudio.com at this link:
 
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/headphone-systems/279414-inverting-version-nwavguy-o2-headphone-amp-vs-original-thd-n.html
 
AGDR is one of the very few folks that communicated with the original designer over many design points of the original O2. This topic did come up between them.....and the results are very good.
 
I will post my build and listening experience as well in a few days.
 
Alex
 
Jan 3, 2016 at 11:07 AM Post #3 of 24
Here is a little background....
 
No new version of the famous O2 Headphone Amplifier has been introduced since he 
disapeared in the fall of 2012. AGDR  has created a brand new version of the O2 Headamp that contains several significant new designs.  The new "O2" fits in the B5-080 case, which is slightly taller and an inch wider than the O2's B2-080 case. The new amplifier is nearly all easy-to-solder through hole parts, similar to the O2, except for a half dozen bypass capacitors under the PC board.The original O2 Headphone Amplifier used non-inverting op-amp stages for the gain and output sections. See a write-up on wikipeda, with the non-inverting writeup below it. Inverting amplifiers lower common mode distortion and harmonics by keeping the voltage levels at the two inputs at zero volts with respect to ground. The voltage level at the input of a non-inverting stage varies with the incoming signal. The original O2 Headphone Amplifier also used conventional (not low dropout) fixed (12V) voltage regulators that were not heat sinked.  Low dropout (LDO) voltage regulators are used here to prevent going into dropout under heavy loads, a known design problem with the original O2 headamp on 12Vac. They are heat sinked to the case rear panel prevent the overheating the original O2 experiences withtransformers over 12Vac. The new regulators (LT3015 and LT3080) are lower noise than the O2's 7812 and 7912 regulators.Part of the reason no new versions of the O2 Headphone Amplifier have been designed is (confusion over) the "no derivatives" license that was invoked with his O2, which essentially says derivatives of the design have to be approved by him. But... he has disappeared and is non-contactable for license releases. I would love to be able to contact the original designer for his measurements and design approval. In several countries that issue alone of a license holder (or their representative) being non-contactable for over a year will cause a license to revert to the public domain.For a design to pass the test as a "derivative" it has to be extremely similar to the original. Nearly the same parts, same (or nearly the same) layout, etc. The amplifier presented here is significantly different to the point where we believe it is not considered a derivative, but a new design. The part that is similar is the overall format of gain stage, followed by volume pot in the middle, followed by output stage. This design uses the slightly wider B5-080 case, with no batteries.
 
Alex
 
Jan 3, 2016 at 11:12 AM Post #4 of 24
Alex let me know that he had started this thread.  
icon_smile.gif
  The link posted above also has the Gerber files for the PC board, which anyone can use to have their own PC boards made at their favorite PC board fabrication house.  The board is 4 layers.

I designed this amp mainly out of curiousity.  I've wondered pretty much ever since the original O2 headphone amplifier was introduced what an inverting version would sound like.  I discussed it with the designer via PM on another forum a few days after he released the O2, had he considered inverting.  He said that he actually had.  The non-inverting design was simpler and potentially lower noise due to the larger resistors required with the inverting configuration (Johnson noise) but he said maybe in the future he would consider an inverting amp.  Well, this one is a version of such a thing.  Same essential structure of his O2, with an initial gain stage followed by the cap-coupled pot in the middle and an output buffer stage.  But to stir things up a bit I've used FET-input op amps for both stages, vs. the bipolar input in the O2.

This site has a pretty good explaination of the inverting op-amp configuration:

http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/opamp/opamp_2.html

The inverting and non-inverting op-amp inputs are held at ground, which eliminates any common-mode distortion.  With the more common non-inverting op-amp configuration (what is used in the O2 headamp and most other headamps) there will be a small common mode voltage.

An inverting op-amp configuration is also stable with a voltage gain less than 1, whereas a non-inverting op-amp configuration isn't stable at less than unity gain.  The low-gain setting with the BOM values for this amp has a voltage gain of 0.75x (attentuation), then the output stage has a gain of 1.3x.  Multiply those and you get 0.75 * 1.33 = 1x, same final result as the O2 low gain (the most common way people build it up).  then in the high gain you get 1.87x, times the 1.33x output, = 1.87 * 1.33 = 2.5x, again same as the O2 in the high gain position. 

And of course with the two inverting stages in series in this amp, the net result is a non-inverted signal, same as the O2 headamp. 

I "fixed" some other annoyances I've had with the O2 over the years:

* power jack in the back
* voltage regulators heat sinked to the rear panel, which means that both front and rear panels have to be drilled (which is why the designer put his jack in front, to reduce panel costs).
* toggle power switch rather than slide to help the two power rails disconnect at the same time
* Includes a headphone relay for zero turn-on and turn-off thumps.  The power management circuit was trying to do several things at once, including thump elimination, and IMHO it didn't do any of them especially well. 
* power LED on each rail to help diagnose when a power rail is lost.  This comes from helping a ton of people fix their O2's over on another forum over the last few years.  One of the first things I often have people do is check their power rails. 
* Input select switch and separate PCB holes for switching between the front panel 3.5mm jack and the ODAC board.
* 1/4" output jack, along with the 3.5mm jack
* heat sinked 250mA buffer chips.  There is a known problem with the O2 where 16 ohm headphones that are low sensitivity, combined with high volume and music with high peaks can overheat the NJM4556A chips in the O2 and cause them to crack in half.  The O2 has 140mA maximum, this one has 250mA.
* +/-15.3Vdc power rails vs. the +/-11.6Vdc in the O2 (12V minus the Shottky diodes minus the PM mosfet voltage drop).  That is 3 extra volts of voltage swing for high impedance headphones that need more voltage swing.  Higher chip voltage also helps reduce chip THD by a tiny amount.
* Low-dropout low(er) noise adjustable voltage regulators vs. the fixed 12V vregs in the O2 headamp.  Note - these are only lower noise if the set resistors are noise bypassed with a capacitor, per the data sheets, which I've done.  The very low noise figure given for both chips (LT3015 and LT3080) in the data sheets is actually for the minimum adjustable voltage, about 1.8V or so, and that noise "gains up" with increasing voltage unless bypassed.  This is something that isn't terribly clear from the datasheets (the given noise is for the lowest possible output voltage) but I've confirmed it with the LT applications engineering folks.
* has power rail clamp diodes so a lost power supply on one rail won't cause a high reverse voltage on the other, something that has wiped out U6 for folks in the O2 headamp on occasion.
* includes a clipping indicator circuit and LED so you know when the input stage (or output stage, I sense both) are being overdriven.  That is another one of the things is asked/suggested to the designer a couple of days after he released the O2.  His reply was simply no space left on the PC board to add any more parts.
* 5K pot vs the 10K in the O2, combined with a lower 24.9K ground return resistor (5x the pot to prevent loading) vs. 40.2K in the O2, to lower Johnson noise.  A 5K works here because the LME49880 gain chip is THD+N specified down to a 600 ohm load.  The NJM2068 in the O2 is only good for a 2K load.  The coupling cap here is bumped up to 4.7uf vs. 2.2uF in the O2 to keep the frequency response the same with the lower value of ground return resistors.
* But... no batteries!  This one isn't "transportable".  And this one uses the B5-080 case which is about 1 inch wider than the B2-080 used with the O2 headamp.  That allowed more front panel room for thngs.  No batteries means no power management circuit, as in the O2, I actually had one designed an on the board at one point, back when I was considering having batteries, but it wound up as all surface mount to fit.  Without the PM circuit 95% of this board is now through-hole parts, making it easier to solder, like the O2.

I know that Alex is building one of these.  If anyone here has a board made and builds one, please post some pictures and listening impressions!

 



 

 
Jan 3, 2016 at 11:41 AM Post #5 of 24
Here are a few pictures of the bud so far
 
Really small SMD capicators on the bottom of the pc board.

 
An ODAC can be installed if desired..
 

 
 
 
Most of the resistors installed...
 

 
Alex
 
Jan 3, 2016 at 11:52 AM Post #6 of 24
Ok,more progress....added most of the diodes and caps....raining here in North Carolina like cats and dogs....not a great day for soldering!! I like the nice bright light of a sunny day..lol!

Should have this amp pretty much wired up by end of day tomorrow and ready for power up and test.
 

 
Alex
 
Jan 3, 2016 at 11:54 AM Post #7 of 24
Ok.....all the parts are in place and we are ready for basic power supply tests.
You should check the bottom of the pc board to make sure you havent shorted anything out, via solder bridges between tight lands and parts. Lands is a word used to describe the copper traces that go from one item or place to another, like a "flat" wire....

 
Alex
 
Jan 3, 2016 at 11:55 AM Post #8 of 24
Here is the front view before knobs and buttons are installed
From left to right, 1/4" phone jack, red clipping led, 3.5mm phone jack, on/off switch, 5K volume pot, gain pushbutton, green power rails leds, 3.5mm input jack,
input select pushbutton.

 
Jan 3, 2016 at 11:57 AM Post #10 of 24
Closer look at the power supply and regulators....AC power on the back side, also RCA jacks can be added to the rear if desired for output...many different wiring schemes depending on how you want to use the unit.

 
Jan 3, 2016 at 11:57 AM Post #11 of 24
Power check showed +14.91 and -15.21 without load. The pc board has jumpers that are not installed until you get the power supply u and running....this imbalance in voltage here looked a little out of kilter.
Jumpering in the main circuits I only had one of the power rail leds lite up...ooooops!! I also notice the +15 volt side went down to 4-5 volts and the associated IC got warm real quick.Immediate shut down and time to go short hunting!

It turns out I installed the D3 Shottky diode in backwards! This was the cause of the short from the +power rail to ground....^$*&%(@!*%# I thought I checked out the diode bands placement a dozen times but this one got away!! It took a bit of unsoldering skills to remove a WIMA cap to get to the diode and some good ole solderwick and flux to get the diode out without doing any further damage!

The diode checked good, its rated at 1amp...and I didnt have the amp on long at all...good!!

After reinstalling the diode correctly and the WIMA cap, we checked the +rail and it was in the right area of +14.91 vdc..however we wanted the two sides to be closer so we changed a resistor from 2.05K to 25K and both + and - 15volts are right on now!.

Next thing is to check for any DC voltage so you wont damage your headphones! This check went well 0.00 volts here...all is good.

Time for the real test...listening!!!

Stay Tuned!!

Alex
HAPPY NEW YEAR!

 



 

 
Jan 5, 2016 at 9:10 AM Post #12 of 24
One of the worts that the O2 has is clipping with higher gains and no clipping indicator. I have replied to many folks that do not understand the relationship of gain, voltage etc....and thought I would share the comments of the designer of this amp AGDR.

"You have 3 extra volts of headroom now!   With the O2’s +/-12V (actually was around +/-11.6 after the diode logic and mosfets) it clipped at around 9.8V.   With +/-15.3 now it won’t clip until around 12.8V.  In fact with the existing 1x / 2.5x gain settings it is harder to test the clipping circuit, since the input signal would need to be 12.8/2.5 = 5.12V peak = 3.6Vrms.  Many signal generators don’t go up that high.  The highest most “normal” audio sources go is 2Vrms.  But I’ve seen all sorts of posts over the years in the forums about folks having sources that output 3Vrms.  I’ll bet they don’t do 3.6Vrms though.   So this amp should be pretty much clip-proof, at least with a 2.5x mamximum voltage gain.

That is another reason why I left the batteries off.  On batteries then the clipping level can drop all the way down to 5V peak if the batteries are near the 7V minimum.  I’ve already decided that if I ever do batteries it would have to be 2 “9V” cells on each rail, for a maximum of 18Vdc.  But then the case would have to be huge…   If it got to that point the best solution would be back to a single lithium battery and a +/-15Vdc dc-to-dc concverter.  Batteries are just such a non-starter." 


In my O2's I can play music with high replay gain of +10db and higher and easliy clip the O2 amp on high gain settings. With this inverting version of this amp I have tried the same experiment and have not seen or heard any clipping!

This is a good thing!

Alex
 
Jan 10, 2016 at 8:47 AM Post #13 of 24
Pictures of the assembly going into the case....

Front panel and rear panel are yet to be crafted!!
 


 
Rear heatsinks will be removed and the ICs mounted directly to the back panel.
They will be electrically isolated for a stat ground to be implemented and eliminate any ground
loos/issues.
 
Alex
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Jan 10, 2016 at 9:01 AM Post #14 of 24
Nice work from AGDR again. Thanks for sharing, Alex!
 
Did you happen to know what would be the costs for this amp, please? PCB + BOM + case, so everthing included in final price, if possible.
 
Thank you, 
Raul.
 
Jan 10, 2016 at 10:54 AM Post #15 of 24
Nice!
One minor nit. There are much better looking (and feeling) volume knobs, all aluminum, on the market (look at eBay, just to name one), which can be had very cheap.
 

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