Almi's Logitech Z-5500 Mod (High-End upgrade for the speaker system)
Oct 29, 2020 at 11:39 AM Post #451 of 544
Nice job!
How do u safely remove the PCB ftom the coolerplates anyway? Theres these micastrips and white pasta all over.
I have the very exact same question :)
@ramachandra I recall that there were some really nice pics in your first post showing what is where and which caps and opamps should be exchanged to what. I cannot see it anymore. Have you deleted them?
 
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Oct 29, 2020 at 4:49 PM Post #453 of 544
Hello!
Can I change the opamps on the subwoofer board without changing other components?
You mean, like, they just take the old ones out and stick the new ones in, and everything works?
Doesn't anything else need to change?
I understand that there is a radical change in the sound after replacing the opamps in the subwoofer box.


Yes, u can.
 
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Nov 4, 2020 at 5:26 PM Post #457 of 544
Figured I'd add this to the mix:

The Eminence Alpha 3-8 replacement drivers for the satellites are a huge improvement
After a few weeks burn in the improvement to mids, highs, and imaging is at times surprising, with the stage now extending well beyond the speakers in all axis.
Bear in mind I haven't done any of the other mods in this thread, other than cotton and proper speaker wire.
They are 8ohm (as appossed to the origonal 6ohm drivers) so adjust your sub.

You'l need to cut \ file down some of the sats housing, and you'll also need a thin metal file in order to file the Alpha's screw holes in towards the centre by ~3mm, but once this is done they fit perfectly.

The imaging is sensitive to placement though. The origonal unmodded sats could be placed pretty much anywhere I found, but with the Alpha's, placement and orientation makes a difference.

Recommended at ~£20\driver.
 
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Dec 7, 2020 at 6:20 PM Post #458 of 544
Hello, This is Ramachandra here.

Because the big changes on Head-Fi website years ago I long lost my access to my account and I can not fix the messed up first post. Unfortunately do not have the original images any longer either, but I wrote a slightly different early Hungarian version at the time. This version still have photos. A link to the "The second Mod" images.

Few years back Elna fakes surfaced on eBay from the bigger 10000uF capacitors. Sometimes the top was covered with plastic and the cut was not the typical sword shape underneath. Adding to the problem Elna rolled out genuine capacitors also with different shape cut on top. I'm not sure what is the current situation, but when you replace those capacitors and that is not give the promised sound improvement, then maybe you have the fake Elnas.

This is an old thread and I'm not planning a return, I just signed up again because this information might be some help.

Cheers
 
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Jan 10, 2021 at 6:04 AM Post #461 of 544
hi and happy new year to all

I have seen guide to improve the Z5500 system

I have one of these systems (the first versions, the ones that still have the rca connectors), from the day of christmas it started me making random disturbances in the center or front right channel
similar to what you hear in this link ( Similar problem video )

looking on the internet I didn't find any certain resolution, so I'm about to start finding the problem, but I wanted to know if you knew what to check.

the capacitors visually look fine, but I want to start changing the 2 large filter capacitors on the power supply + another from 2400uF which, from a quick view, seems to be filtering the voltage for the control pod

do you have any suggestions? before attempting the upgrade I would like to find the solution to the problem
thanks!
 
Jan 12, 2021 at 5:54 PM Post #462 of 544
My z5500 has also developed a noise disturbance. Would describe it as a wind gust / rumble type noise rather than crackling. The noise comes and goes a bit, not identified what triggers it.

Seems to be on all channels, not effected by volume control or input. Suspect it could be power supply issue but haven't opened up yet. Interested to know what caps you are putting in on the power circuit and if it can fix noise issues.
 
Jan 14, 2021 at 1:36 PM Post #463 of 544
I still have to try to change the capacitors, but if you open the woofer you will find 2 large capacitors (they are the power filter) and one a little smaller which seems to me filters the 18V that go to the pod

as a first test I would like to replace these 3, although I doubt these are causing the problem, if it does not work, I will change all the capacitors in both the woofer and the pod (starting with the ones near the opamps)

if i don't solve, i try to change the opamps

before starting with the modification I would like to solve the problem
 
Jan 17, 2021 at 3:35 AM Post #464 of 544
Greetings everyone.

I was having problems with my Z5500 sound system since a year ago and i have decided to open it up and have a look. After reading plenty of topics in forums and stuff that usually breaks down i was convinced i could fix it on my own. My problem was that it kept shutting down on its own and it would never come back on. The power button was off instead of read. I have contacted Logitech for a probable control pod supply but to no availability.

What i did so far is to change the 25V 4700mF capacitor to a new Nichicon and the LM217T voltage regulator, new mica pads on the TDA'S with thermal paste and to the LM217T. However it keeps shutting down. I have yet to change the two 50v 10.000mF power filter capacitors since the problem is not fixed, i haven't done that because my solder iron got burned and i am going to get a new one. Also, i have measured all the surrounding resistor R21,R20,R16 and so on and all seems to be okey. I have checked the speaker connections to the subwoofer and they all work fine, the control pod cable is good, the fuse in the back of the sub is good too.

After trial and error i have discovered two ways to bring it back in life. The first is if while the power button in the back of the sub is on and i short the adjustment and input pin of the LM217T, the red light on the control pod lights up and when i press it, it comes on. The second method i discovered to bring it back on, because i was tired unscrewing the sub every time, was on the control pod, if i short the +8V pin on the PCB with the +18V pin. This leads me to believe that in both methods the +8V line is given more voltage and that brings it back online. The actuall read out using my voltmeter for the +8V line is 7,95V, which i think is good for it to stop failing. The +18V and -18V is actually +18,23 and -17,34 at times, which leads me to believe that one of the main power line capacitor may have reached it's end of life.

I just wanted to share my finding to anyone who might have been having this pesky shutdown issue and haven't found a way to at least short term bring it back on. I am also eager to ask anyone that might know what would the actual problem might be. I haven't yet changed the 50V capacitor and i will do so in due time, but would there may be something else i am missing? Why does the control pod comes back when i supply more voltage on the +8V line instantaneously and what may cause the shut down? Is this some kind of power drain through the main processor that requires more voltage?

Thanks in advance.
 

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