@andro6600 that 1 X 100k you have there is wrong... i have it down as a 100R and i have had all mine out and tested original with multimeter ... the original resistors are 1/8w carbon... i have changed all of mine for 1/4w metal film... no bad done by going up wattage as long as they still fit ok... they just dissipate heat better and therefor can resist more current before failure. as
@ramachandra said the one with a black stripe is just a jumper wire.
here is the list i did for them when i first calculated them by colour... then took them from preamp board one by one... measured resistance and if my first calculation was wrong i would look at the color again and see where i went wrong...
6 X 10K 1/8W 5% (brown,black,orange,gold)
3 X 200K 1/8W 5% (red,black,yellow,gold)
1 X 100R 1/8W 5% (brown,black,brown,gold)
the other resistors are...
7 X 2.2R 1/2W 5% (red,red,gold,gold)
2 X 36R1/4W 5% (orange, blue, black, gold)
5 X 2.2R are on the pre-amp board behind the new caps you just put in.
2 X 2.2R are near the tda amps for the sub (near the main filter caps).
2 X 36R are the ones at the +-18V regulators
i think i found the problem with my setup... i have not been using the 2 center screws that center the board and as i clamp one side to the heatsink and then the other side... there has been a big gap on the second side (between tda amp and heatsink) because of the first clamp pulled the board over... so on one tda (the sub and a left rear) it had broke the pins on the tda amp on the sub tda all the long pins had no continuity from the bottom side off the board to where they enter the tda chip... so about 8 pins on the sub tda and about 4 pins on the left rear... so i am waiting for my tda's to turn up from china (seems like its taking forever) but its a big relief as i am pretty sure that i will have had those op-amps in right (at some point) but it was the tda at fault... i am pretty certain when i get new tda's in it will be a runner again
@ramachandra yes both boards are exactly the same so from one to another is easy... even if i cant get a good reading on something then there will be a patter... like a steady rise and then sit at a resistance... although not perfect... it is a good reference as if it sits at another reading there could be something work checking up/down stream from that point. makes it easier... and that resistor i have changed it... i will just get my main system up and running again and then i will get some smd's in and replace the ones i have taken from that board... i took the 2606 out and it still was reading 90K so i will just replace with 90K
the tda amp was the find off the day for me... will center the board from now on.