[L0rdGwyn]

I will add to this, although many on the internet are not a fan ( I do wonder if they have even tried it tbh) due to "noise" caused by them - I only needed to use this method on my separate 12.6V filament PT, and there is no noise difference between using that and my 6.3V filament PT. Anti-parallel diodes to drop heater voltages, which would remain constant despite heater requirements of the tube in use.

Keep in mind this is the B+ rectifier, meaning any noise introduced by those diodes is now in the B+ supply. I haven't tested this as there are better solutions, but I wouldn't recommend it for a rectifier filament winding. For a cathode heater, it matters much less and is probably fine.

 

[g0ldl10n]

Keep in mind this is the B+ rectifier, meaning any noise introduced by those diodes is now in the B+ supply. I haven't tested this as there are better solutions, but I wouldn't recommend it for a rectifier filament winding. For a cathode heater, it matters much less and is probably fine.

That's true, but it is certainly easy enough, and probably more importantly, cheap enough (a few bucks?) to try to see if it is an issue or not, and if it isn't, then it's likely the easiest way to implement a solution here.

 

[L0rdGwyn]

That's true, but it is certainly easy enough, and probably more importantly, cheap enough (a few bucks?) to try to see if it is an issue or not, and if it isn't, then it's likely the easiest way to implement a solution here.

If the LL2758 heater windings were rated for 3A and it was just a matter of adding the right diodes, I'd say it's worth a try. But we're talking about adding an additional transformer to the amplifier to accomplish this, which is the bigger problem. The amp is not laid out to accommodate it. My experience using small heater transformers from the likes of Hammond is they have very high leakage flux and will be noisy. A toroid would be better but is much larger. The chassis layout would have to be altered accommodate it and it would have to be shielded. If you are going to those lengths, might as well have a custom transformer made with a 5V winding, which negates the need for the diodes.

 

[smodtactical]

Assembled chassis (Dave's work is excellent)

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Assembled chassis (Dave's work is excellent)

Did you check continuity between the panels like I suggested? You need to make sure you're able to make ground connections to the chassis and that the side panels are grounded to one another. If it's anodized, you'll need to sand / grind away the anodized layer anywhere you need to make a metal-to-metal connection, which includes the signal and safety earth grounds and side panel connections.

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Let me just add one more time - this isn't optional, you will need to ground to the chassis for the amp to work as intended. Likewise, not having all of the metal panels grounded to one another is a safety issue. I stressed this in my other posts and got no response.

 

[smodtactical]

Did you check continuity between the panels like I suggested? You need to make sure you're able to make ground connections to the chassis and that the side panels are grounded to one another. If it's anodized, you'll need to sand / grind away the anodized layer anywhere you need to make a metal-to-metal connection, which includes the signal and safety earth grounds and side panel connections.

I can't tell if the panels are anodized or not. I just sent an email to Dave to ask him.

 

[AnyDave]

I can't tell if the panels are anodized or not. I just sent an email to Dave to ask him.

Do you have a multimeter? You can (and probably should) check continuity yourself, regardless of what Dave says.

If you don't have a multimeter, might as well get one now as you'll need it to build the Aegis anyway.

 

[smodtactical]

If it's just brushed uncoated aluminum then that's fine, not sure what you discussed with Dave. You can always check using the continuity setting of your multimeter to see if it's conductive.

Sorry I missed the last part. Not sure how to do that but ill figure it out.

 

[smodtactical]

Let me just add one more time - this isn't optional, you will need to ground to the chassis for the amp to work as intended. Likewise, not having all of the metal panels grounded to one another is a safety issue. I stressed this in my other posts and got no response.

Followed this vid.

I tested all the panels that are in contact and got 0.6 which is what I get when the terminals are touching eachother as well.

Is that acceptable?

 

[smodtactical]

Do you have a multimeter? You can (and probably should) check continuity yourself, regardless of what Dave says.

If you don't have a multimeter, might as well get one now as you'll need it to build the Aegis anyway.

My response to you and L0rd G above. Thank you!

 

[Toonartist]

Followed this vid.

I tested all the panels that are in contact and got 0.6 which is what I get when the terminals are touching eachother as well.

Is that acceptable?

There will be a setting to turn on sound and when there is an electrical contact, flow, from one panel to the other it will beep.

 

[AnyDave]

Followed this vid.

I tested all the panels that are in contact and got 0.6 which is what I get when the terminals are touching eachother as well.

Is that acceptable?

If you are reading 0.6 ohms, then that's probably fine. I would hold one lead against the other and see what you measure. It's possible 0.6 ohms is the resistance of the leads themselves.

And, not to be a downer, but I would read up a little bit on basic electronics before you actually start building the Aegis. You could really hurt yourself with the DC voltages used in a tube amp if you don't know what you're doing. Tube amps can be lethal.

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Followed this vid.

I tested all the panels that are in contact and got 0.6 which is what I get when the terminals are touching eachother as well.

Is that acceptable?

When you put two leads on the same panel, are you getting 0.6ohms? Like @AnyDave said, 0.6ohms is probably fine. Just make sure the same value is seen when one lead is on each side panel and one is on the top plate as that is where the safety earth connection is made. Putting these leads on any two side panels should have a very low value, close to 0. Alternatively, if you're multimeter has a continuity setting (looks like a wifi symbol), it will beep at you rather than giving a resistance value.

 

[smodtactical]

When you put two leads on the same panel, are you getting 0.6ohms? Like @AnyDave said, 0.6ohms is probably fine. Just make sure the same value is seen when one lead is on each side panel and one is on the top plate as that is where the safety earth connection is made.

That is exactly what im getting. And yes 0.6 on same panel and touching panels. And 0.6 when leads touching each other. Either 0.6 or sometimes 0.4 for all the values.