[ServinginEcuador]

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php...tor_oil_basics


The full article is huge, but reading just 101-104 is more than enough to remove all misinformation you've been told before.

 

[Edwood]

I just use the factory recommended. More people take too long between oil changes, which causes more problems than people using the wrong kind of oil.

Just out of curiosity, how's your Insight working for you lately, Doug?

-Ed

 

[ServinginEcuador]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edwood /img/forum/go_quote.gif Just out of curiosity, how's your Insight working for you lately, Doug? -Ed

Sold it and got a Lexus LS430.

I got a couple of gallons of AMSOil 0w-20 for the new car, along with their Absolute Efficiency filters. Now I can go close to 20000 miles between oil changes.

 

[Edwood]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ServinginEcuador /img/forum/go_quote.gif Sold it and got a Lexus LS430. I got a couple of gallons of AMSOil 0w-20 for the new car, along with their Absolute Efficiency filters. Now I can go close to 20000 miles between oil changes.

LOL, that Insight is a tad small, eh?

-Ed

 

[KYTGuy]

Good Article - thanks for posting it here, Doug.

 

[ServinginEcuador]

If you REALLY want some good info on oil, filters, additives, etc. just visit Bob is the Oil Guy here:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

It's the Head-Fi of the oil industry. Lots of chemists and experienced folks hanging out there to help out.

 

[mbriant]

I've been thinking of switching over to synthetic and was wondering if there's anything special I should do during the transition from mineral. Should I perhaps do two oil changes in rapid succession to help flush out most of the old mineral oil? Any insight on this?

 

[RYCeT]

I read that article, I can't understand it, Can anyone explain/summarize it in layman term?

 

[KYTGuy]

Mbriant: You don't have to, as Mobil 1 engineers assure me that their oil is fully compatible with conventional, but I always make a short change - I run my new cars about 10K mi (changing the "normal" oil @ 200 mi, 500mi, 1000mi, 3000mi, 6000mi), then change out to Mobil 1, then after a good run, around 200 mi, I change out to Mobil 1, and then (had been) changing every 5k thereafter. With the advent of the "Extended Life" Mobil 1, I have in all my vehicles their first run of oil I intend to change out every 10k Miles.

Even though the Mobil 1 Extended boyz sez 15k is OK, I will be changing it at 10k. I'll send it to a lab for analysis, before I go to 15,000 mi. I Love the idea of so many less changes - not just because it keeps the recycle load down, and definately not for any savings...I am sure that the less times you open the crankcase up, the less chance of that one grain of silica sand getting in - one grain can ruin your engine. I view the innards of an engine just like my own - easier to keep then clean/sterile if they are opened up less.

Using Mobil 1 since its introduction, I have now run seven auto engines of all types to well over 130k miles on the least one, and over 345k on the longest one, and sold them (all but the ones now owned) in tight (no leaks, no oil consumption beyond normal range) condition. I even run it in my Genset, My Pressure Washer, and my Lawnmower!

 

[JSTpt1022]

I'm going to continue to change every 3k as I can feel the difference in the car, and see the difference in the oil, without even looking at the odometer. I can't even imagine going the 10k that some people suggest. Several cars in my family have exceeded the 300k mile mark. I'd like to keep it that way.

 

[Lou Erickson]

Huh. My RX-8's rotary is different enough that I think I'm just going to stick with what the dealer suggests.

It's time for it to go see them, though. Must make an appointment.

 

[sinny]

thanks for the good find.

 

[ServinginEcuador]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSTpt1022 /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm going to continue to change every 3k as I can feel the difference in the car, and see the difference in the oil, without even looking at the odometer. I can't even imagine going the 10k that some people suggest. Several cars in my family have exceeded the 300k mile mark. I'd like to keep it that way.

The only way to verify what's going on in your engine is to do a UAO. (Used Oil Analysis). It only costs about $30, and is critical for going more than 3000 miles on an oil. But, if you visit the Bob is the Oil guy site and look around you'll see tons of people submitting their UAO, along with make, model, mileage since last oil change, and total vehicle mileage. They then discuss any issues, and can verify from the sample if there's any additive left, and how much longer you can go on that oil. Synthetic can easily go to 7500 or more miles with plenty of life left.

Also, just looking at an oil isn't a good indicator of anything other than the color of the oil. No company will honestly reco an oil change solely based on color. Oxidation can change the color, which would lead to changing the oil too early.

Either way, if you're not comfortable going past 3000, then buy cheap dino oil and ignore people like me. I now change my own oil, and like the extended drain intervals I can get with really good oil. To each their own!

 

[ServinginEcuador]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lou Erickson /img/forum/go_quote.gif Huh. My RX-8's rotary is different enough that I think I'm just going to stick with what the dealer suggests. It's time for it to go see them, though. Must make an appointment.

Go to the Bob is the Oil Guy and see if there are folks who are going with a different oil and filter. I know that rotary engines burn oil, so buying exotic oil might simply be too expensive a proposition.

 

[ServinginEcuador]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RYCeT /img/forum/go_quote.gif I read that article, I can't understand it, Can anyone explain/summarize it in layman term?

Yes: at a given weight all oils have the same viscosity when at full operating temperature. Normally, 30 wt oil has a viscosity of 10 at 100c. The main difference between oils is how thick the oil is when you start-up the engine. Some oils can have a viscosity of 150 or more when cold, and at 0c it is so thick it simply doesn't move AT ALL. This contributes to a significant amount of wear at start-up until the oil warms up enough to flow easily.

So, find the brand and weight of the oil you use. Look it up on the internet and find out the viscosity at 40c and 100c. (Every oil I've looked at lists these on their website.) Look up several other oils, both synthetic and mineral, and see what other oils list. Choose the oil that has the lowest viscosity at 40c. You'll find that the exact same weight of oil can vary dramatically from brand to brand.

Here are some examples of what I found with synthetics:

Redline 5W-20 Schaeffer 5W-20
100c 9.1 7.5-8.5
40c 55 43-45

Notice how close they are at 100c (.6-1.6 cSt difference), and yet are much farther apart at 40c (10-12 cSt). At around 70f, ambient temps here in SoCal on the average day, the same oils may go quite easily over 120-130 cSt and have a difference in viscosity of 20 or more centistokes cSt.

Hopefully this helps.