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TEAC HA-P90SD (To be released in Dec, 2014) - Page 11

post #151 of 357
Okay I'll try converting to wave for the 192khz files, bit of a shame though. How about gapless? Anyone managed to find this option?
post #152 of 357

nvm


Edited by T.R.A.N.C.E. - 8/9/15 at 4:33am
post #153 of 357
Well I'm still getting a half second pause between all my tracks - or is this only supported with Wav files too? I listen to a lot of live albums and concept albums so gaps are really annoying
post #154 of 357

I'm not so sure now, maybe gapless is selected In the settings 'play' > 'repeat' > 'continuous'. If it doesn't work, either the implementation for gapless is bad or P90 is being temperamental with the files or Teac haven't implemented gapless :confused_face_2:


Edited by T.R.A.N.C.E. - 8/9/15 at 4:41am
post #155 of 357
Quote:
Originally Posted by T.R.A.N.C.E. View Post
 

I'm not so sure now, maybe gapless is selected In the settings 'play' > 'repeat' > 'continuous'. If it doesn't work, either the implementation for gapless is bad or P90 is being temperamental with the files or Teac haven't implemented gapless :confused_face_2:

 

I've checked today, and the options path you mentioned seems like the only one that might fit. But it doesn't - still no gapless. It's strange because Teac has specified gapless playback as "on/off" on their website.

I have only FLAC files so that might be the problem. Could somebody try this "continous" preset on WAVs, MP3s or other formats?

post #156 of 357

Here's TEAC P90 disassemble

 

If someday you need to change the battery, then you'll need to go all the way to disassemble the unit to the last bit to be able to replace it

 

 

 

 

 

Since the instruction of disassemble in manual is very unclear, I will post it here.

 

You need L key 1.3mm and philips #0 and #00 for the tools

After you unscrews all the outer ring, here's the hard part

 

1. Pop off the volume and power slider by pull it out. There is no screw, just use a little force.
2. The LCD cover is glued with high quality double tape to the cassis. You need flexible aluminium plate to open it up. Open it carefully. Too strong you could break mica glass cover. Too weak and it won't open.
3. The button beneath mica cover is placed with plastic snapped mechanism. Carefully with a little force try to unsnapped it. Again, too strong you will break the plastick..
4. After  removing the button. Unscrew the two screw holding the lcd pcb
5. The LCD is again glued with high quality double tape. DO NOT use tools to break it loose. Use your hand and very2 carfully. If you break the LCD , then it will be no replacement for you. Carefully lift the top lcd area with enough force until the double taped come off, but DON'T PULL IT OFF. If you force to pull it off, it will break the LCD wire unseen hanging on the back. Let it hang there. The LCD PCB is connected with cable in the back with snapping mechanism too. Disconnect the connected cable then you can take off the LCD.
6. After take off the LCD, you just need to pull the board out via the back panel. And you can start disassemble the other. including the battery

 

 

oh , and other than replacing the battery.. you can do a little mod too

 

the TEAC P90 uses 4x Burrbrown 1602 opamp. Two in the dac section. Two in the output section. The Onkyo HA300 uses 4 8920. You can change them with equivalent opamp for modding :)

post #157 of 357

where can find the soft wear for android ?

post #158 of 357
Quote:
Originally Posted by yasaka View Post
 

where can find the soft wear for android ?

 

It's not out yet. But you can use HibyMusic free from playstore. It has limited DSD support too.

 

or you can buy USB Player Pro like me. It fully support TEAC P90SD , and you can use other player too. And to it sounds great :)

post #159 of 357

Thanks for the pics man! That pcb is arranged beautifully and neatly into sections in each half of the pcb!

 

Dac output stage is all left side of the first pic, power supply is all right side of the first pic, amp stage is all left side of second pic, digital section is all right side of the second pic.

 

And check out that analog amp with the 4 discrete transistors used in push pull with the 2xOPA1602, and the thin film capacitors look awesome in your pic, metallic green.

 

It would be interesting modding different opamps, but the P90 sounds so good it doesn't need it imo.

 

Do you know what the big chip is on the bottom left of first pic?

 

So glad I got the P90, my favorite dap hehe.


Edited by T.R.A.N.C.E. - 9/9/15 at 5:41am
post #160 of 357
Quote:
Originally Posted by nangryo View Post
 

 

It's not out yet. But you can use HibyMusic free from playstore. It has limited DSD support too.

 

or you can buy USB Player Pro like me. It fully support TEAC P90SD , and you can use other player too. And to it sounds great :)

Thanks.

Now I use the P90SD with HD700 headphone. it is not bad :)

post #161 of 357
Quote:
Originally Posted by T.R.A.N.C.E. View Post
 

Thanks for the pics man! That pcb is arranged beautifully and neatly into sections in each half of the pcb!

 

Dac output stage is all left side of the first pic, power supply is all right side of the first pic, amp stage is all left side of second pic, digital section is all right side of the second pic.

 

And check out that analog amp with the 4 discrete transistors used in push pull with the 2xOPA1602.

 

It would be interesting modding different opamps, but the P90 sounds so good it doesn't need it imo.

 

Thanks :D

 

If you see carefully, it uses total of 4 opa 1602, two in each side of PCB.

 

Current TEAC sound is very good already, but I mod it a little just to align it more with my sound preference :D

 

The onkyo counterpart uses the exact layout but different opamp (they uses muses 8920). Right now I'm ordering muses 8832 ( I already have one actually ) which is has hybrid sound of muses01 and muses02 but lesser refinement than those two. Maybe I will change the just the analog section with the muses to still retain some of current TEAC sound.

 

Dunno, still not sure hehe

post #162 of 357

If I was going to mod I would replace OPA1602 with OPA1612, this is same family just higher end chip with more balanced sound, it would reduce bass of P90 and make mids and highs even more pronounced, so it is not for everyone. You probably like warmer sound so you are going with muses?

post #163 of 357
Quote:
Originally Posted by T.R.A.N.C.E. View Post
 

If I was going to mod I would replace OPA1602 with OPA1612, this is same family just higher end chip with more balanced sound, it would reduce bass of P90 and make mids and highs even more pronounced, so it is not for everyone. You probably like warmer sound so you are going with muses?

 

Actually, muses is not warmer than the current opamp. It's almost equivalent. It just that current teac although has big soundstage, it tends to clump in the middle. I'm planning to uses muses 8832 to help overcome this, and it has bonus of more pronounced vocals and more balanced bass too.

 

But using 1612 is a good idea too. I might look into it thanks. Do you have another sugestion for mod bro? I'd appreciate any input I can get :D

post #164 of 357

Yeah I know what you mean about the clumped sound stage, it really affects iems more than anything, good headphones don't sound clumped with P90, like Philips A5-Pro sounds great, or AKG K7XX.

 

I will have a think about opamps and get back to you, I am sure I can think of a high separation opamp.

 

P90SD stock is still my favorite dap though so far :cool: 

post #165 of 357

nangryo, do you know what the big chip is in the bottom left of the first pcb pic? Must be something in the analog stage to do with the dac output, I wonder what it is.


Edited by T.R.A.N.C.E. - 9/10/15 at 4:00am
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