My bad, yes forth, not third. I was not counting the actual wire that was being moved.
Edited by Toxic Cables - 1/1/13 at 10:47pm
My bad, yes forth, not third. I was not counting the actual wire that was being moved.
Thanks! Will do that with my next set of cables!
The hard part of braiding a 4 wire conductor is the left wire going over the two middle ones.
Sometimes my middle wires accidentally cross one another. 
Tim
My first attempt at soldering wires to the plug resulted in this:
Somehow it was hot enough for the plastic to melt... but not hot enough for the solder to melt :(
use flux, and probably higher heat for less time.
@blueangel2323: Tin (melt some solder) the tips of the individual wires first. Also tin the plug parts where you will be attaching the wires. Just a VERY SMALL AMOUNT to each area.
Then mate the tinned wire to the tinned plug part. Hold in place with fingers, helping hands, or tweezers. Introduce hot iron tip. Count to 5-Mississippi tops and remove iron. In that time, the two tinned areas should fuse together. Depending on how much/little tinning you did to wire and part, you shouldn't need to introduce additional solder.
If you do not achieve a good joint, remove the iron and wait a few minutes before trying again.
Happy New Year fellow DIYers, my favourite braiding instructions site is this one:
Wow, that sucks. Always tin the wires first. It doesn't look like you did that. This can also help you figure out how much heat you need to tin the wires and/or melt the solder so you don't damage the connector that you are soldering to later with too much heat or too prolonged heat.
Tin the solder pads on the plug, too, if that helps you.

@blueangel2323: Tin (melt some solder) the tips of the individual wires first. Also tin the plug parts where you will be attaching the wires. Just a VERY SMALL AMOUNT to each area.
Then mate the tinned wire to the tinned plug part. Hold in place with fingers, helping hands, or tweezers. Introduce hot iron tip. Count to 5-Mississippi tops and remove iron. In that time, the two tinned areas should fuse together. Depending on how much/little tinning you did to wire and part, you shouldn't need to introduce additional solder.
If you do not achieve a good joint, remove the iron and wait a few minutes before trying again.
Wow, that sucks. Always tin the wires first. It doesn't look like you did that. This can also help you figure out how much heat you need to tin the wires and/or melt the solder so you don't damage the connector that you are soldering to later with too much heat or too prolonged heat.
Tin the solder pads on the plug, too, if that helps you.
Thanks for the tips! Will definitely tin next time. But there's a first time for everything, right? :)
No kidding:
My first recable from ~3 years ago or so.
I made a new 3.5mm to 3.5mm IC to go along with my Custom Sansa LOD for Fuze.
Did a 'lil "fashion shoot" LOL.
Here's the pics:
Hope everyone had a Happy New Year! This past year I've progressed from a "maybe" cable builder (IMHO) to a much more consistent one. Nice feeling to start 2013 with; feeling much more confident in my hobby skills. xD
So I had this silly idea to make some interconnects with magnet wire.Turned out nicely except for burning off the enamel which is always messy.
Twisted pairs, sleeved in teflon:
Hard to get a close up shot, but you can sort of make out the twist in the below image.
(click to enlarge)
.
Rewired my friends old Krank channel splitter after the old cable gave up after years of abuse \m/. I just replaced the cable, re-soldered the innards with new jumper wire, used Techflex Toxic Green and a nice, simple Neutrik 1/4" jack.
sorry for OT! but just tried this earlier and it looks odd, i didnt make the braiding too tight because i want the braid to be somewhat loose/normal
from what i understand from your explanation, it goes like this:
1 2 3 4
2 3 1 4 ( 1 over 2 and 3)
2 3 4 1 ( 4 over 1)
3 4 1 2 ( 2 under 3 and 4, and over 1)
so the braiding actually doesnt go back to 1 2 3 4 position? thanks