This is my very simple and basic solution to help reduce some heat off the feverish Geek Out 1000.
I got this aluminum heat sink from a local electronic store. I didn’t measure the dimension of the Geek Out before buying this heat sink but when I got home and put them together, the length is just nice. The best thing is it matches the colour of my silver Geek Out, as if they are manufactured from same block of aluminum.
After attaching the heat sink, I see a drop of 10C° (from 50C° to 40C°) in temperature with just passive cooling. It also dissipates heat faster when I turn on the air conditioning.
I need to get Velcro straps or some neat solution to secure the Geek Out on the heat sink to avoid scratching the surface from movement friction.
I read all these nice feedback for volume control.
What we design is to let computer become volume setting host once it has changed. So the volume setting inside GO will be reset to computers.
We will redesign this volume setting mechanism to make more natural to users. And this will be firmware upgradable.
I read all these nice feedback for volume control.
What we design is to let computer become volume setting host once it has changed. So the volume setting inside GO will be reset to computers.
We will redesign this volume setting mechanism to make more natural to users. And this will be firmware upgradable.
I think if it can be configured so it is an option in the driver, and have it default so that GO volume is separate from OS volume would be more intuitive for users
I don't trust the system volume. More than once it happened to me with my desktop system that because of some Windows update that just put the volume to max again and almost blew my speakers. Plus I almost had a heart attack. I hate this and I became paranoid with the volume ever since.
A independent volume based on the device and that never maxes out would be nice.
does any one have an ak 240? and if so how does the geek out compared? I know there in two different product categories but the comparison might give a baseline to how the geek wave might stack up to it.
also I am interested (obviously if possible) if anyone can post there thoughts on how it stacks up against the resonessence concero hp.
My AK240 is closer to my Master 7 in sound quality, even when I use the best set-up possible with a separate power supply with the Geek Out, which makes the music sound a bit flat in comparison.
My Geek Out 450 with Windows 7 resets to max volume every time it is unplugged from the USB port despite the OS setting. I always set the Master at -50. But what's interesting is that although after plugging in the Geek, the LH Control Panel shows max 0dB but the actual volume through the headphones is the same as I left it, at -50. But here's the catch. If the the up physical volume button or 3D is activated, the volume out of the headphones immediately blasts to max. That's the dangerous part and that's when I have blasted my ears again the past few days thinking the volume level is safe when it actually isn't. You have to check the LH control panel continuously to be safe. This is a bug and LH needs to fix asap and please don't keep posting that it's user error and that's the way it's supposed to work.
I read all these nice feedback for volume control.
What we design is to let computer become volume setting host once it has changed. So the volume setting inside GO will be reset to computers.
We will redesign this volume setting mechanism to make more natural to users. And this will be firmware upgradable.
To be honest, I've grown to like using the system volume keys on my keyboard to adjust the volume. The only time I have issues is when I am trying to toggle the 3d and miss hit the buttons. I also unplug it when not listening due to the heat which let's the OS take over at the proper settings. I control when my computer updates, so problems there.
Larry, I would suggest a firmware option to let users pick which way to control the volume and then default to that. If I choose Windows control then the buttons are disabled and it never maxes out as a Windows default. If users prefer using the buttons, set it to max in Windows and let the device remember where the volume is.
Geek Out 1000 Red
Date Shipped: April 13. 2014
Date Received: May 6, 2014 (Hey Poste Italiane it was 23 Days!
)
Mandatory Pics (serial # changed)
Observations:
1. Man it has some dammed authority (Even NIB, no break-in)! It slams everything with conviction! For a $199 "Chiclets" sized DAC its very very nice!
2. You know what if you have set everything....the volume implementation is wicked! I don't have to touch the unit. I just play the volume with my mouse. Just DON'T TOUCH :lol: . I'll try to explore on this more.
3. Need to have the correct setup: (Win 7 x64 Ult., JRiver MC19) Installed driver, chose as default in CP, chose as audio device (ASIO) in MC19 and play....Sound w/ NOISE! Ah! forgot to tick DOP in Device Settings in MC19. Now we're playin!. Let me see if I upsample in 2x DSD DOP...It works! Now let me try DSD128. Hey why there are glitches its DSD128 capable??? Oh forgot setting Bitstreaming to DSD....
4. Its Hot. Not overly hot. At your initial touch it seems hot but if you really grab it, you can.
5. One thing I like with JRiver is that you can upsample. Like the picture above. Playing a 24bit 192Khz file and GO1000 displays DSD 2X.
Need to confirm that noise they've been saying. So far none. I'll wait tonight. And Android too.
Playing it now with my UM Mentor Universals with 24awg pure silver from HPL Audio.
I read all these nice feedback for volume control.
What we design is to let computer become volume setting host once it has changed. So the volume setting inside GO will be reset to computers. We will redesign this volume setting mechanism to make more natural to users. And this will be firmware upgradable.
I think if it can be configured so it is an option in the driver, and have it default so that GO volume is separate from OS volume would be more intuitive for users
1) The GO's volume control buttons should act just like a volume control knob on an analog amp - when you use the GO's buttons, there should be no impact on the system volume setting.
2) Better still, when powering up, the GO's output volume should be set to wherever the user had it last - just like an analog amp's volume control knob that doesn't move when the amp is powered off and back on.
3) If it's not possible to remember the user's volume setting after powering down, just power it up with the volume set to 0 (zero) - that's a lot safer than any other alternative.
4) Ideally, when the GO first powers up, having reset its volume to zero (or to the user's last setting, if possible), as with many other USB DACs, the GO should also set the system volume to 100% (maximum bit depth) but have no impact on system volume thereafter - allowing the user to trim it, if desired, which, of course, would lower the output volume (and the bit depth).
I don't trust the system volume. More than once it happened to me with my desktop system that because of some Windows update that just put the volume to max again and almost blew my speakers. Plus I always had a heart attack. I hate this and I became paranoid with the volume ever since.
A independent volume based on the device and that never maxes out would be nice.
@Larry Ho This is a pessimistic question, given your intent to improve things with a firmware update, but to your knowledge, could one of the following analog volume control products be used downstream (between the GO and the headphones)? This is what I will feel compelled to try, if my pre-ordered GO arrives before a firmware solution is available. I am not going to put either my ears or my headphones at risk of using the GO as it functions currently.
As I understand it, these are intended for use with Line Level voltages, not at the output voltages intended for headphones. And frankly, this kills the convenience of the GO as portable device, so there's only one reason I'd keep the GO if I need to use one of these to protect my ears: for the sound quality it manages to deliver above anything else I have for a given headphone.
I've decided to cancel my order for the Geek Out 1000.
I'd rather wait and see what solution is applied to the volume control problem, via firmware or otherwise, than experiment with inserting analog volume controls between the Geek Out and my headphones - which is likely to alter the signature, anyway.
But contacting Light Harmonic is difficult...
The HTML-based Customer Service Inquiries form is currently non-responsive when I click the "Submit" button. (I've supplied the Captcha, correctly - multiple times.) No errors are displayed and nothing happens using either Internet Explorer or Chrome.
I get a voice mail when calling their customer service number: 888-842-5988
So, I've sent an e-mail again to: cs@lhlabs.com
(Staying subscribed - I'm still interested in what the future holds for this product.)
I now use Emotiva Control Freak between my other desktop DAC connected to a power amp for my desktop speakers-based setup.
Are you suggesting using one of those analog attenuators between GO1000 and the headphone? I don't see this as practical...
I've decided to cancel my order for the Geek Out 1000.
I'd rather wait and see what solution is applied to the volume control problem, via firmware or otherwise, than experiment with inserting analog volume controls between the Geek Out and my headphones - which is likely to alter the signature, anyway.
But contacting Light Harmonic is difficult...
The HTML-based Customer Service Inquiries form is currently non-responsive when I click the "Submit" button. (I've supplied the Captcha, correctly - multiple times.) No errors are displayed and nothing happens using either Internet Explorer or Chrome.
I get a voice mail when calling their customer service number: 888-842-5988
So, I've sent an e-mail again to: cs@lhlabs.com
(Staying subscribed - I'm still interested in what the future holds for this product.)
They are overwhelmed, plain and simple. The support staff they have hired are simply not enough to deal with the questions/problems with the GEEK, Pulse, and Wave campaigns. I remember seeing a picture of Manny sitting in the lobby answering emails on a laptop since there is no real office.
I really think they need to bring in someone with real business/operations experience and expertise if they want to continue to grow with their reputation intact. They seem like good people with some really good ideas and engineering capabilities, but their aggressiveness and lack of infrastructure to support that aggressiveness are problematic now and might eventually prevent them from becoming truly great.
On a positive note, my 450 is sounding better with my HD800 after a couple days of solid use. The bottom has gotten a bit heavier, which is welcome. It will never give me the warmth that I think the HD800s need to have added, but it partners very well with everything else I have tried with it. Volume trickiness notwithstanding, I still say this is an outstanding device worth buying. I just can't think of anything near this price point that provides better performance.
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