All my 192khz FLAC files clicked, downloaded from HD Tracks, Linn Records, 2L etc...
Ibasso could easily download a 24bit/192 khz FLAC file from any of these websites and test it
All my 192khz FLAC files clicked, downloaded from HD Tracks, Linn Records, 2L etc...
Ibasso could easily download a 24bit/192 khz FLAC file from any of these websites and test it
I think those clicking is kind of decoding problem.
If dsd support is out and perfectly implemented, I think a 'less hi-rez' format like the flac decoding will be fixed.
I think those clicking is kind of decoding problem.
If dsd support is out and perfectly implemented, I think a 'less hi-rez' format like the flac decoding will be fixed.
I think DSD is around the 96khz PCM range when it comes to comparing the bit rate density, so maybe DSD is still easier to decode than an 192khz PCM file. But I have no clue if that is comparable when it comes to processing power.
192khz WAV was working fine on the DX50. FLAC and AIFF were not.
"Oh dear. I have an issue with my DX50. It is partly my own stupid fault but I am still not delighted.
It seems that my DX50 has no safety shutoff circuit for battery depletion. I installed a new genuine Galaxy S3 battery a couple of weeks ago and was able to get it up to a full charge using a 1.3 amp Nokia charger. Then on the road this week, I had simply fantastic battery life from my new battery."
I found my DX50 battery had run down yesterday, and would not stay on for more than a moment or so before shutting down. Perhaps I had inadvertently left the unit on. However, after a few hours charge, connected to my computer, it charged fully. Just checked the DX50 after it had been off overnight, and it is still fully charged. Why not try a wall charger and see if you can get the unit back to fully charged?
Thanks, Aurion. I am using a wall charger for the DX50. I do not have separate battery charger for a Galaxy S3 battery.
I switched back to the original DX50 battery which still carries a charge; there was still one bar on the battery meter. I am charging that now. At least it should get me listening again until I get a new battery.
I think DSD is around the 96khz PCM range when it comes to comparing the bit rate density, so maybe DSD is still easier to decode than an 192khz PCM file. But I have no clue if that is comparable when it comes to processing power.
192khz WAV was working fine on the DX50. FLAC and AIFF were not.
Prior to FW 1.2.5 I was having the clicking on 192kz ALAC but only when playing from the SD card. Putting on internal memory, it worked. With 1.2.5 192khz ALAC works from the SD card. I only have one album at this rate but it seems to be working now with ALAC. I can't tell a SQ difference between 96khz so I don't plan on adding any more.
Scott
Thanks, Aurion. I am using a wall charger for the DX50. I do not have separate battery charger for a Galaxy S3 battery.
I switched back to the original DX50 battery which still carries a charge; there was still one bar on the battery meter. I am charging that now. At least it should get me listening again until I get a new battery.
Where did you see the lithium battery discharge warning? This warning is new to me. Hadn't known that complete discharge wrecks the battery. There must be safety circuits to prevent this in all iPads.
Where did you see the lithium battery discharge warning? This warning is new to me. Hadn't known that complete discharge wrecks the battery. There must be safety circuits to prevent this in all iPads.
Small Li-based batteries have a maximum charge cycle life of about 400 cycles. Li batteries suffer progressively worse chemical degradation when discharged past about 50% of capacity. Routinely discharging them to nil will rapidly reduce their charge capacity and overall life by half or more. This is the real reason why you shouldn't deep discharge Li batteries. Lower quality batteries, like the ones iBasso ships, can have shorter lives and lower nominal capacities and more rapid degradation. It doesn't surprise me that the stock battery would go from the rated 10+ hours to just 4 hours over three or four months of heavy use.
Unlike NiCD and NiMH batteries which can be monitored by temperature, Li-based batteries require a "smart" charge circuit to prevent overcharging and rupturing. When the charge monitor circuit fails or faults then the battery can discharge or self-discharge to nil while the circuit says it has a full charge. The result is that the circuit prevents the battery from being charged. Early Li-P and Li-Ion battery packs are notoriously susceptible to this phenomenon. Anything more recent than, say, 2003 should be more reliable as the circuits were altered to prevent this kind of self-discharge fault. Still, faults happen. Unfortunately, it's usually impossible for consumers to fix or reset a Li battery once it gets into this state. A dedicated charger might be able to get it working again but that depends on the battery and the charger; it's not a universal thing.
Then you lose me again by failing to acknowledge that someone might buy the Mercedes also because it drives better and is more pleasurable to drive. You are on your way in your reasoning but you keep missing the conclusion.
There's nothing wrong with wanting more/better per se. What I hate is the pressure in this forum to buy outboard amplifiers when they're not needed and are of no actual benefit. Case in point: my deconstruction of LinkyG's perceived SQ improvements between v1.2.6 and v1.2.7 by adding an amplifier. To follow your Mercedes vs. Honda analogy, it's like you insisting that I really should get an S-Class because it's so much better than the Fit (Jazz to you folks outside North America). Better in some ways perhaps, but an S-Class costs $80K-$120K more to buy, is commensurately more expensive to insure and maintain, guzzles more than twice as much fuel per mile, and isn't nearly as much fun to drive as my Fit.
Small Li-based batteries have a maximum charge cycle life of about 400 cycles. Li batteries suffer progressively worse chemical degradation when discharged past about 50% of capacity. Routinely discharging them to nil will rapidly reduce their charge capacity and overall life by half or more. This is the real reason why you shouldn't deep discharge Li batteries. Lower quality batteries, like the ones iBasso ships, can have shorter lives and lower nominal capacities and more rapid degradation. It doesn't surprise me that the stock battery would go from the rated 10+ hours to just 4 hours over three or four months of heavy use.
Unlike NiCD and NiMH batteries which can be monitored by temperature, Li-based batteries require a "smart" charge circuit to prevent overcharging and rupturing. When the charge monitor circuit fails or faults then the battery can discharge or self-discharge to nil while the circuit says it has a full charge. The result is that the circuit prevents the battery from being charged. Early Li-P and Li-Ion battery packs are notoriously susceptible to this phenomenon. Anything more recent than, say, 2003 should be more reliable as the circuits were altered to prevent this kind of self-discharge fault. Still, faults happen. Unfortunately, it's usually impossible for consumers to fix or reset a Li battery once it gets into this state. A dedicated charger might be able to get it working again but that depends on the battery and the charger; it's not a universal thing.
All good information, but.....I'm not going to worry about it. I have lithium batteries all over the house, and the only one I can recall having a problem with is from my Logitech remote. It had been sitting on a charger when not in use for at least 2-3 years. The battery was so badly swollen that it could not be removed. Logitech replaced it at no cost. My original iPad, first model, is still going strong. And the DX50 batteries are so inexpensive and available everywhere that it is of little concern, to me. Your information is interesting nevertheless.
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