Almi's X-Fi Mod
I have got big inspiration a while ago from Layman's Guide to modify my good old X-Fi. Since I have learnt few things and tricks to improve the X-Fi further more. What I would like to share here is nothing special, most of them well known, but You can save time to read them in one place.
Since X-Fi XtremeMusic, few other soundcards appeared on the market, usually with more extras and better quality. Some can say that: what is the point to upgrade this old outdated modell, it will be never-ever as good as my new shiny 200$ card. If we are loking the technical data they are correct. In reality, this mod can outperform a basic Auzentech X-Fi Forte or Titanium HD card in many ways (I have them both). Even some external DACs as well. It is amazing how much hidden potency remains in this card after many years.
This modification is working on the same way on XtremeMusic and Xtreme Gamer Fatality Pro.
What you need for this upgrade:
Opamps:
2pcs opa228p (for front speakers)
3pcs opa2228p (for the rest)
Sockets:
4pcs dip8 socket (i prefer gold plated)
1pcs dual to mono dip8 socket
Update:
Or 4pcs OPA1602AID (No sockets no fun
)
Soldering:
soldering paste (basic is perfect)
soldering iron (narrow head important)
solder (cheap=trouble)
solder sucker
wire cutter
twezers
Clock:
ultra precision 1ppm TCXO 24.576MHz
Wires:
wires from a Sata cable is perfect
Capacitors:
16pcs Elna Silmic II 22uf 16v
1pcs Elna Silmic II 1500uf 16v
1pcs Elna Silmic 47uf 16v
3pcs Elna Cerafine 10uf 50v
2pcs Elna Silmic 22uf 16v
1pcs Elna Tonerex 100uf 50v
6pcs K73-16 0.1uf 63v (Russian military) or Wima MKS
About components:
Opamps:
LM4562: Few years passed, they are better then stock opamps but outdated. Very sensitive to noises, what is abundant inside your pc. I have found many of them faulty.
Opa228P: One of the best opamp highly performing in the lower range (bass and drums ect.)
(Thank you Majkel!) The 228p is the mono, 2228p is the stereo version. There are arguments about which one is the better, I personally prefer monos because the less chance for crosstalks. In most cases mono OpAmps are better. The PA series sound brighter than P, and are also good choice.
Opa627AU: have better high but less depth. Very similar to 49710NA (Titanium HD), but Opa627AU is a bit more alive.
Opa637SM: like Opa627AU just in a metal can. One of the best in clarity, if you can afford it, buy it.
Opa128SM: Maybe a bitt better than Opa638AU
Bursons OpAmp: Some says they are the best, but others have their doubts. (I dont have it yet for testing.)
Others: There is an ocean of them. Many of them was a great choice for upgrade around 2007 but time is time...
Update:
OPA1602AID: One of the latest OpAmp from the great TI Sound Plus family. Usually OpAmps have a common weakness. Good performance in one or two ranges, and poor or limited in the other(s). This one is without such of weakness. High-End no doubt. (A noticeable thing is a tiny harshness in the midrange. Ears can quickly adapt, not enough to be disappointed) Out since 2011, so i can not find on eBay yet. Can be solder directly to the card, no need for sockets, or if you already installed sockets, a DIP8 to SOIC adapter can help (cheap)
OPA1612AID: A bit older close enough alternative.
Great threads about OpAmps:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/397691/audio-gd-discrete-op-amps-reviewed-opa-earth-opa-moon-opa-sun-v-2
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/154106-best-sounding-audio-integrated-opamps.html
Capacitors:
Elnas are one of the best electrolytic capacitors in the audio industry. In this mod they are making the sound clear and warm, easy on the ears, and better 3D! I have a little experince with Nichicon caps but one thing is sure the Elnas naturally increase bass, Nichicons are better in the mids and this is not coming always handy if you like headphones. Good example is the Auzentec X-Fi Forte. The AKM4396 DAC have strong mids and the Nichicon caps increase the mids further. Make your ears bleed after a short time of listening on headphones. Other than that, they are great capacitors in the right place.
This links are coming handy about capacitors:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/528380/electrolytic-capacitors-used-in-audio-dc-blocking-comparison-tread
http://tech.juaneda.com/en/articles/electrolyticcapacitors.html
Ultra precision clock generator (TCXO):
I strongly advice to have on any soundcard. Does not matter how good soundcard you have if a cheap, lazy clock turnig the music to a foggy mess! After the change of crystal the sound becoming crystall clear, all the instruments in place, well separated. It makes the bass tighter. The 0.3ppm oscillators are better than 1ppm for a bit more money.
The mod
Change of capacitors
For soldering caps 60/40 Tin/Lead solder is perfect. The easy way to temove caps is to put some paste & solder to the legs first. Heat up one leg then push the capacitor to one side, then heat the other leg and push to the opposite side, then just repeat. It can ruin the cap, but who cares? To remove old solder from holes is easy if you use the solder sucker on one side, the soldering iron on the other side of the PCB. Some times solder can be really tough to remove from holes, in that case just solder the caps to the surface of the hole. Better option than keep trying and owerheat the SMDs on the card. A wet cloth or tissue can keep the critical areas cold enough from overheating.
A drill could be another option too. But remember to be very careful to select the proper head and not damage the wall of the hole. Even broken legs of the capacitors can be drilled out if necessary.
The negative polarity of electrolyte capacitors are marked on the capacitors and PCB. Using them the opposite way results problems. Film capacitors have no polarity.
Decoupling capacitors: I strongly suggest Silmic II because quality really matters. The 4 capacitors on top belong to the front speaker, the other 12 to the surround speakers. There is one rule for both group: change them all or leave them all!
Caps arround dac: This is a good place for experiments. You can not go wrong with Elna Silmic II alone here, but the same type caps can make the sound signature too strong.
Capacitor for opamps: Elna Tonerex is good for opamps. 50v capacitor is not necessary but higher voltage caps have lover ESR and longer lifetime.
Main capacitor near X-Fi chip: 1500uf is enough, because Elna capacitors are naturally increase bass, and 2200uf way too much after this complete mod.
Extra capacitors: I have taken the idea from a DIY DAC. It gives extra strenght for the sound, can reveal some hidden details.
The newly installed caps are require minimum 5 days of running to burn in. Before that, expect no miracle.
Installing the clock
To remove the chrystal can look difficult at first. Thanks to the straight legs, the trick is to push out with the head of the soldering iron, then put a screwdriver under and lift carefully.
The card has a crystal what we want to change to an oscillator. The output need to be connected to the left hole on the PCB. And we need energy for the oscillator from an 4 pin extra power connector on the the top right corner. Pin1 +5v, Pin2-3 GND (see little triangle which marks the pin1.) Then connect the floppy power cable to the card for extra juice.
If for some reason the clock doesent work, the windows7 will just be hanging on the loading screen. If it plays the sound too fast or slow, the frequency of the clock is the problem.
Remove opamps and install sockets
Better to do this mod after the removal of the caps around opamps because there is only small space for work, and this is already the most challenging mod for many who try. Fine low melting point solder is working great to solder IC sockets to PCB. Cheap low quality solder can make the life very difficult, or even impossible to solder tiny things. The first step is to remove the stock opamps from the board by cutting of the legs and clean the rest. Or solder the legs together than heat and lift the sides. Throw the old stock opamps to the bottom of the bin just to be sure they will be not climbing out :-)!
Take out the wires from the sata cable, and solder 1cm L shape wires to the PCB. Start with the 2. and 4. opamp and make the wires short as possible then solder the dip8 sockets to the wires. After that, use longer wires for the 1. and the 3. If they are at the same level, maybe looking better, but no space for work. The dual to mono adapter is require more space for the front chanels, so better if they sitting a bit higher. Extremly important to chek all the connections after soldering, because later on it will be very difficult to make corrections, and also there is a high possibility for damage during installation of opamps. You can save yourself from this type of fun using browndogs, (dip8 to soic adapters) unfortunately they are very expensive.
There is one rule about to change the surround opamps: change them all or leave them all. The reason to change all of the surround OpAmps is simple. On the front, only one OpAmp is responsible for the left and right chanel, but on the surround the chanels are mixed. I just mention here the sound might be heard quietly if the OpAmp(s) don`t work for some reason. If you are fortunate that is a contact problem (the opposite is a dead, shortend, burnt component, damaged PCB, ect..).
Update:
Adapters
Finaly i have found adapters for low cost from China:
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/1x-DIP8-SOP8-SOIC8-PCB-adapter-DIP8-SMD-Converter-DIY-/110849802208?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19cf29bfe0
The advantage of using adapters is obvious if somebody like to have more experience, or simply looking for fun with the sound. The soldered connections is better than plain contacts for audio, so it make sense to stay away from sockets, in the long term. To avoid confusion here is a picture about adapters, and a short descriptions to give an idea what they are. Basically stereo OpAmps can be used on this soundcard, or two mono with adapter(s). By the right adapter different size & package OpAmps working safely. Using a stereo OpAmp in a mono socket or any OpAmp in wrong alignment, is a predictable quick death for the component, so no shame to check the datasheet to be sure and take a second look before the power on.
The following picture can be used for troubleshooting. (Sorry, i do not have a proper jack to test side channels).
The alignment of the new opamps is the same as the text on the old ones. Check the marking(s) on the PCB before installation of new socket(s).
Maybe help
Not directly related to the thread, just one of my favorite video how the experts are doing things.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NN7UGWYmBY
Extra Capacitors
This is at least easy and working pretty good with any 0.1uf film capacitors. Simply solder them to the legs of the capacitors on the back of the card. One goes to the main cap C177 and the other 5 around the DAC chip C91,C119,C108,C56,C107. Ceramic or Tantalum is not great for audio. I have used K73-16 capacitor without any complication with external noises. If you are concerned about the length of the wires use Wima MKS.
Full bypass of muting circuits
What extra you need for this mod:
small size players
magnifying glass (min 40x)
This is a mod what you may or may not like. The removal and the bypass of the muting circuit result more clarity. The advantage brings some disadvantages as well, like hearing the not great quality in music, or the sound is more free flow, but bass is less “kicking” (a bigger cap instead of 1500uf more-less can bring back the balance).
The easy way to get rid of the components on the panel is to twist them left and right with the players. Sometimes they break into pieces, after then just clean the rest with the soldering iron.
35ohm resistors: The bypass will give a tiny improvement for the sound. Maybe some of the connected sound equipment can benefit from that if they are remaining untouched.
Front speakers: The safe way to make the connection is using a bridge-shaped wire.
Surround: Even more simple, you solder the 3 dots together (on the top side of the 6 pin transistors), and remove 46k ohm resistors.
Upgrade for opa228p
Soldering together the 1-7-8 legs making the sound softer.
Other tricks
- Removing all of the surround OpAmps can make an improvement if only the two front speakers required. This way the main OpAmp have a better supply of energy, and make an audible difference.
- I suggest to do the change of the caps around the DAC, and install the oscillator in the same time. Because the ultra precision clock will decrease the energy of "vibrant" sounds, the new caps around DAC will increase. They nicely compensate each other.
- Soldering chips to the PCB is risky without a temperature controlled and ESD safe soldering iron. (But not impossible)
- Shortening the decoupling capacitors not really an upgrade for the front speakers. Great for the high range & clarity but significant lose for the low range. After my disappointment on the front speakers i gave a chance for the surround, with good results. I have not experienced any negative side effects like on the front. I suggest to try it out without removing the decoupling caps. Just solder the legs together and listen...
Drivers
Basically the Creative drivers are stable and reliable, still bugs are exist. The Unofficial Pax drivers are offer a solution, and much more. You can find more details and the drivers under the following links. The installation is simple just like the original.
http://www.hardwareheaven.com/pax-drivers/
The easier way to download the drivers:
http://www.paxyoursoundout.com/
Fix for damaged PCB
Sometimes removing the components are not going well even for experienced modders so good to know what options we have when the damage is done. The surface of the card is covered by a thin layer of paint, what is coming off relatively easy by scratching the surface with a sharp blade or other tool, revealing the real size and way the copper on the surface. It will give the opportunity to have wider surface for soldering or bridge the missing pads. Against oxidation the surface can be covered again with nail-polish if necessary. On the following picture the connections around the OpAmp can be seen.
If the hole of the capacitor damaged a very thin wire can help. Solder one side to the remaining copper and lead to the other side of the hole then install the cap, then ready for soldering as normal. Or use the other side of the PCB and the leg of the component to bridge the missing bit. Maybe not fancy, but electrons don’t care, and easier as well.
Just a bad move and SMD componets have a tendency to breaking off from the panel and not always in one piece. If the necessary value are not available try the closest you can get, or use ordinary (much bigger) 1/4Watt metal film resistors and ceramic capacitors with short legs as possible.
Source of components
What is necessary for this mod can be found on eBay, and approximately costs 40-50€.
I'm only an enthusiastic amateur in electronic, so sorry if i can not provide more scientific approach for this mod.
XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Pro
XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Pro (Same mod a bit differently)
(If you are interested about a modified card like this maybe i can help. Contact: ramachandra@citromail.hu)
Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium / X-FI Titanium Fatal1ty Pro
My first impression is, this card realy enjoys the benefits provided by the PCI-Express slot. It is already working like an XtremeMusic after some modification. The G-Luxon capacitors on the card are probably better than the Jamicons, but still not Audio grade. So it’s time for an upgrade! The good news for the Fatal1ty Pro owners that, all the mods can be done under the shield.
Compared to the XtremeMusic/XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Pro the design have not changed dramaticly. Or at least not on the part where it needs a modification. Because of this, i don’t need to give the same description about the effect as above.
Decoupling capacitors: I suggest to use the purple (NOS) Silmic II capacitors. The newer series are maybe better, but the size is problematic, as you can see on the previous pictures. These caps are tested, opened and seems to be genuine Elnas. The legs are not magnetic.
Other caps on the front: They are connected to the DAC, and two of them under the decoupling capacitors to other circuits as well. Use any audio grade caps according to your taste or budget, but to get the best results, stick to the High-End.
Bypass caps: Added to the 3 capacitors around the DAC and one for the capacitor near the regulator. The suggested ratio is max 1% of the capacitance, but 0.1uF 63V or 100V can do fine.
Oscillator (TCXO): The installation is more or less the same as on the other cards. The output of the osillator needs to be connected to the hole closer to the X-Fi chip. The source of the +5V is the output pin of the regulator near the optical connectors, the GND is the small copper square near the right leg of the crystal. Use a tape on the panel to avoid shorting circuit. The legs can be cut back or bend according to needs.
OpAmps: They can be removed by cutting or desoldering, just like on the photo. I have used 4pcs OPA1602AID without sockets this time. Solder sucker works better for me than desoldering braid to remove excess solder from the pins.
Bypass ower decoupling capacitors: Just an experiment, the results are strongly depend on the quality and value of the used components. If you are interested in playing with it, try MKP, MKS, or lower quality MKT arround 63V-100V. Unfortunaltely the space gives a limit to use something better.
Few useful links to items on eBay: (I hope they will last for a while)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FINE-LOW-MELT-POINT-FLUXED-SOLDER-WIRE-0-4mm-DIAMETER-6-MTRS-/360452481715?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item53eca462b3
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-ELNA-SILMIC-Electrolytic-Capacitors-22uF-16V-/320687596301?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aaa78630d
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Valab-1PPM-24-5760-MHz-Low-Jitter-Precision-TCXO-/300641150147?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45ff9be4c3
Titanium HD
I haven’t found any lead how or what to change on the card so i had to try and figure out myself. Im sure there are others who can do these things better and progress further. This is not exactly a guide, best to say that something i have tried. I have only examined the effect on the front speakers, trough the analog and optical connection.
How to change the crystal
Basically the same as on the XtremeMusic with few differences in the connections. The right hole near the X-Fi chip is the place of the output of the oscillator on this card. A good spot for the ground just beside the crystal, the small copper square on the right. In this mod i have decided to get the +5V power from the output of the LM1117 regulator just to do things simple. This way all of the wires and the TCXO remain under the shield. Of course if you do not like the idea to interfere with the job of the regulator, the external powering also can work from a Molex. (red wire +5v, black GND)
The replacement of the capacitors:
So far, the safe way to get rid of the SMT capacitors is to twist them with pliers. I had some other attempts, and ended up with nice damages on the PCB. Desoldering is risky because it requires high temperature and taking too long. If you decide to change capacitors on the card there is a possibility that the shield will not fit on the card any more.
Coupling capacitors: I have used Silver Mica capacitors instead of the other good brand film caps. Micas are cold and agressive, still the best to improve clarity. I have noticed only a tiny improvement after the replacement. Having different values of the capacitors had no further effect on the sound.
Decoupling Capacitors: Elna Silmic II is my best bet as usual, one of the most noticable is the better bass and more comfort for the ears. The 0,1uf 63v polystyrene bypass capacitors can add some small detail to the sound. I had to use both sides of the card to be able to install all the capacitors and two metal film resistors. The original value is 560 Ohm on the card. (i have only 470 Ohm in the photo)
Shortening capacitors also an option, however hardly can be called as an upgrade. The sound was becoming clean but unfortunately flat (poor mid and poorer low range).
Caps around DAC: just a small improvement for the 3D space.
Capacitros for the OpAmps: Not worth to change them alone.
Main capacitor for the X-Fi chip: Hoops! I can not find any. The 47uf capacitor in the bottom right corner is connected to the RAM.
Capacitors near the digital output: After the recap of the whole corner i have noticed significant improvements in the low range sounds on the analog and digital output both. I have tried to play with capacitances, later i have removed all the capacitors, and i heard nothing to support my previous experience. My best guess was that i had a faulty capacitor on my second-hand card. Solid-polymer capacitors have a tendency to fail shortend. (Many time wasted on to upgrade my external DACs so it was not something that i overlooked)
I have to say that the Creative made a big step to use better capacitors on the Titanium HD. The change of the capacitors can bring too small improvements for the sound comparing to the older X-Fi models. Too much pain for a little gain. To verify my experience i bougt another Titanium HD meanwhile to be sure. Probably you figured i did not fall in love with RMAA, just only the sound i can hear, so i gladly sacrificed the shield of the card and used a bit longer wires for better components.
If you are not looking for adventures best bang for the money is to change the OpAmps and the crystal to an ultraprecision clock and be happy.
Edited by ramachandra - 8/10/12 at 6:15pm
I have got big inspiration a while ago from Layman's Guide to modify my good old X-Fi. Since I have learnt few things and tricks to improve the X-Fi further more. What I would like to share here is nothing special, most of them well known, but You can save time to read them in one place.
Since X-Fi XtremeMusic, few other soundcards appeared on the market, usually with more extras and better quality. Some can say that: what is the point to upgrade this old outdated modell, it will be never-ever as good as my new shiny 200$ card. If we are loking the technical data they are correct. In reality, this mod can outperform a basic Auzentech X-Fi Forte or Titanium HD card in many ways (I have them both). Even some external DACs as well. It is amazing how much hidden potency remains in this card after many years.
This modification is working on the same way on XtremeMusic and Xtreme Gamer Fatality Pro.
What you need for this upgrade:
Opamps:
2pcs opa228p (for front speakers)
3pcs opa2228p (for the rest)
Sockets:
4pcs dip8 socket (i prefer gold plated)
1pcs dual to mono dip8 socket
Update:
Or 4pcs OPA1602AID (No sockets no fun
)Soldering:
soldering paste (basic is perfect)
soldering iron (narrow head important)
solder (cheap=trouble)
solder sucker
wire cutter
twezers
Clock:
ultra precision 1ppm TCXO 24.576MHz
Wires:
wires from a Sata cable is perfect
Capacitors:
16pcs Elna Silmic II 22uf 16v
1pcs Elna Silmic II 1500uf 16v
1pcs Elna Silmic 47uf 16v
3pcs Elna Cerafine 10uf 50v
2pcs Elna Silmic 22uf 16v
1pcs Elna Tonerex 100uf 50v
6pcs K73-16 0.1uf 63v (Russian military) or Wima MKS
About components:
Opamps:
LM4562: Few years passed, they are better then stock opamps but outdated. Very sensitive to noises, what is abundant inside your pc. I have found many of them faulty.
Opa228P: One of the best opamp highly performing in the lower range (bass and drums ect.)
(Thank you Majkel!) The 228p is the mono, 2228p is the stereo version. There are arguments about which one is the better, I personally prefer monos because the less chance for crosstalks. In most cases mono OpAmps are better. The PA series sound brighter than P, and are also good choice.
Opa627AU: have better high but less depth. Very similar to 49710NA (Titanium HD), but Opa627AU is a bit more alive.
Opa637SM: like Opa627AU just in a metal can. One of the best in clarity, if you can afford it, buy it.
Opa128SM: Maybe a bitt better than Opa638AU
Bursons OpAmp: Some says they are the best, but others have their doubts. (I dont have it yet for testing.)
Others: There is an ocean of them. Many of them was a great choice for upgrade around 2007 but time is time...
Update:
OPA1602AID: One of the latest OpAmp from the great TI Sound Plus family. Usually OpAmps have a common weakness. Good performance in one or two ranges, and poor or limited in the other(s). This one is without such of weakness. High-End no doubt. (A noticeable thing is a tiny harshness in the midrange. Ears can quickly adapt, not enough to be disappointed) Out since 2011, so i can not find on eBay yet. Can be solder directly to the card, no need for sockets, or if you already installed sockets, a DIP8 to SOIC adapter can help (cheap)
OPA1612AID: A bit older close enough alternative.
Great threads about OpAmps:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/397691/audio-gd-discrete-op-amps-reviewed-opa-earth-opa-moon-opa-sun-v-2
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/154106-best-sounding-audio-integrated-opamps.html
Capacitors:
Elnas are one of the best electrolytic capacitors in the audio industry. In this mod they are making the sound clear and warm, easy on the ears, and better 3D! I have a little experince with Nichicon caps but one thing is sure the Elnas naturally increase bass, Nichicons are better in the mids and this is not coming always handy if you like headphones. Good example is the Auzentec X-Fi Forte. The AKM4396 DAC have strong mids and the Nichicon caps increase the mids further. Make your ears bleed after a short time of listening on headphones. Other than that, they are great capacitors in the right place.
This links are coming handy about capacitors:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/528380/electrolytic-capacitors-used-in-audio-dc-blocking-comparison-tread
http://tech.juaneda.com/en/articles/electrolyticcapacitors.html
Ultra precision clock generator (TCXO):
I strongly advice to have on any soundcard. Does not matter how good soundcard you have if a cheap, lazy clock turnig the music to a foggy mess! After the change of crystal the sound becoming crystall clear, all the instruments in place, well separated. It makes the bass tighter. The 0.3ppm oscillators are better than 1ppm for a bit more money.
The mod
Change of capacitors
For soldering caps 60/40 Tin/Lead solder is perfect. The easy way to temove caps is to put some paste & solder to the legs first. Heat up one leg then push the capacitor to one side, then heat the other leg and push to the opposite side, then just repeat. It can ruin the cap, but who cares? To remove old solder from holes is easy if you use the solder sucker on one side, the soldering iron on the other side of the PCB. Some times solder can be really tough to remove from holes, in that case just solder the caps to the surface of the hole. Better option than keep trying and owerheat the SMDs on the card. A wet cloth or tissue can keep the critical areas cold enough from overheating.
A drill could be another option too. But remember to be very careful to select the proper head and not damage the wall of the hole. Even broken legs of the capacitors can be drilled out if necessary.
The negative polarity of electrolyte capacitors are marked on the capacitors and PCB. Using them the opposite way results problems. Film capacitors have no polarity.
Decoupling capacitors: I strongly suggest Silmic II because quality really matters. The 4 capacitors on top belong to the front speaker, the other 12 to the surround speakers. There is one rule for both group: change them all or leave them all!
Caps arround dac: This is a good place for experiments. You can not go wrong with Elna Silmic II alone here, but the same type caps can make the sound signature too strong.
Capacitor for opamps: Elna Tonerex is good for opamps. 50v capacitor is not necessary but higher voltage caps have lover ESR and longer lifetime.
Main capacitor near X-Fi chip: 1500uf is enough, because Elna capacitors are naturally increase bass, and 2200uf way too much after this complete mod.
Extra capacitors: I have taken the idea from a DIY DAC. It gives extra strenght for the sound, can reveal some hidden details.
The newly installed caps are require minimum 5 days of running to burn in. Before that, expect no miracle.
Installing the clock
To remove the chrystal can look difficult at first. Thanks to the straight legs, the trick is to push out with the head of the soldering iron, then put a screwdriver under and lift carefully.
The card has a crystal what we want to change to an oscillator. The output need to be connected to the left hole on the PCB. And we need energy for the oscillator from an 4 pin extra power connector on the the top right corner. Pin1 +5v, Pin2-3 GND (see little triangle which marks the pin1.) Then connect the floppy power cable to the card for extra juice.
If for some reason the clock doesent work, the windows7 will just be hanging on the loading screen. If it plays the sound too fast or slow, the frequency of the clock is the problem.
Remove opamps and install sockets
Better to do this mod after the removal of the caps around opamps because there is only small space for work, and this is already the most challenging mod for many who try. Fine low melting point solder is working great to solder IC sockets to PCB. Cheap low quality solder can make the life very difficult, or even impossible to solder tiny things. The first step is to remove the stock opamps from the board by cutting of the legs and clean the rest. Or solder the legs together than heat and lift the sides. Throw the old stock opamps to the bottom of the bin just to be sure they will be not climbing out :-)!
Take out the wires from the sata cable, and solder 1cm L shape wires to the PCB. Start with the 2. and 4. opamp and make the wires short as possible then solder the dip8 sockets to the wires. After that, use longer wires for the 1. and the 3. If they are at the same level, maybe looking better, but no space for work. The dual to mono adapter is require more space for the front chanels, so better if they sitting a bit higher. Extremly important to chek all the connections after soldering, because later on it will be very difficult to make corrections, and also there is a high possibility for damage during installation of opamps. You can save yourself from this type of fun using browndogs, (dip8 to soic adapters) unfortunately they are very expensive.
There is one rule about to change the surround opamps: change them all or leave them all. The reason to change all of the surround OpAmps is simple. On the front, only one OpAmp is responsible for the left and right chanel, but on the surround the chanels are mixed. I just mention here the sound might be heard quietly if the OpAmp(s) don`t work for some reason. If you are fortunate that is a contact problem (the opposite is a dead, shortend, burnt component, damaged PCB, ect..).
Update:
Adapters
Finaly i have found adapters for low cost from China:http://www.ebay.ie/itm/1x-DIP8-SOP8-SOIC8-PCB-adapter-DIP8-SMD-Converter-DIY-/110849802208?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19cf29bfe0
The advantage of using adapters is obvious if somebody like to have more experience, or simply looking for fun with the sound. The soldered connections is better than plain contacts for audio, so it make sense to stay away from sockets, in the long term. To avoid confusion here is a picture about adapters, and a short descriptions to give an idea what they are. Basically stereo OpAmps can be used on this soundcard, or two mono with adapter(s). By the right adapter different size & package OpAmps working safely. Using a stereo OpAmp in a mono socket or any OpAmp in wrong alignment, is a predictable quick death for the component, so no shame to check the datasheet to be sure and take a second look before the power on.
The following picture can be used for troubleshooting. (Sorry, i do not have a proper jack to test side channels).
The alignment of the new opamps is the same as the text on the old ones. Check the marking(s) on the PCB before installation of new socket(s).
Maybe help
Not directly related to the thread, just one of my favorite video how the experts are doing things.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NN7UGWYmBY
Extra Capacitors
This is at least easy and working pretty good with any 0.1uf film capacitors. Simply solder them to the legs of the capacitors on the back of the card. One goes to the main cap C177 and the other 5 around the DAC chip C91,C119,C108,C56,C107. Ceramic or Tantalum is not great for audio. I have used K73-16 capacitor without any complication with external noises. If you are concerned about the length of the wires use Wima MKS.
Full bypass of muting circuits
What extra you need for this mod:
small size players
magnifying glass (min 40x)
This is a mod what you may or may not like. The removal and the bypass of the muting circuit result more clarity. The advantage brings some disadvantages as well, like hearing the not great quality in music, or the sound is more free flow, but bass is less “kicking” (a bigger cap instead of 1500uf more-less can bring back the balance).
The easy way to get rid of the components on the panel is to twist them left and right with the players. Sometimes they break into pieces, after then just clean the rest with the soldering iron.
35ohm resistors: The bypass will give a tiny improvement for the sound. Maybe some of the connected sound equipment can benefit from that if they are remaining untouched.
Front speakers: The safe way to make the connection is using a bridge-shaped wire.
Surround: Even more simple, you solder the 3 dots together (on the top side of the 6 pin transistors), and remove 46k ohm resistors.
Upgrade for opa228p
Soldering together the 1-7-8 legs making the sound softer.
Other tricks
- Removing all of the surround OpAmps can make an improvement if only the two front speakers required. This way the main OpAmp have a better supply of energy, and make an audible difference.
- I suggest to do the change of the caps around the DAC, and install the oscillator in the same time. Because the ultra precision clock will decrease the energy of "vibrant" sounds, the new caps around DAC will increase. They nicely compensate each other.
- Soldering chips to the PCB is risky without a temperature controlled and ESD safe soldering iron. (But not impossible)
- Shortening the decoupling capacitors not really an upgrade for the front speakers. Great for the high range & clarity but significant lose for the low range. After my disappointment on the front speakers i gave a chance for the surround, with good results. I have not experienced any negative side effects like on the front. I suggest to try it out without removing the decoupling caps. Just solder the legs together and listen...
Drivers
Basically the Creative drivers are stable and reliable, still bugs are exist. The Unofficial Pax drivers are offer a solution, and much more. You can find more details and the drivers under the following links. The installation is simple just like the original.
http://www.hardwareheaven.com/pax-drivers/
The easier way to download the drivers:
http://www.paxyoursoundout.com/
Fix for damaged PCB
Sometimes removing the components are not going well even for experienced modders so good to know what options we have when the damage is done. The surface of the card is covered by a thin layer of paint, what is coming off relatively easy by scratching the surface with a sharp blade or other tool, revealing the real size and way the copper on the surface. It will give the opportunity to have wider surface for soldering or bridge the missing pads. Against oxidation the surface can be covered again with nail-polish if necessary. On the following picture the connections around the OpAmp can be seen.
If the hole of the capacitor damaged a very thin wire can help. Solder one side to the remaining copper and lead to the other side of the hole then install the cap, then ready for soldering as normal. Or use the other side of the PCB and the leg of the component to bridge the missing bit. Maybe not fancy, but electrons don’t care, and easier as well.
Just a bad move and SMD componets have a tendency to breaking off from the panel and not always in one piece. If the necessary value are not available try the closest you can get, or use ordinary (much bigger) 1/4Watt metal film resistors and ceramic capacitors with short legs as possible.
Source of components
What is necessary for this mod can be found on eBay, and approximately costs 40-50€.
I'm only an enthusiastic amateur in electronic, so sorry if i can not provide more scientific approach for this mod.
XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Pro
XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Pro (Same mod a bit differently)
(If you are interested about a modified card like this maybe i can help. Contact: ramachandra@citromail.hu)
Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium / X-FI Titanium Fatal1ty Pro
My first impression is, this card realy enjoys the benefits provided by the PCI-Express slot. It is already working like an XtremeMusic after some modification. The G-Luxon capacitors on the card are probably better than the Jamicons, but still not Audio grade. So it’s time for an upgrade! The good news for the Fatal1ty Pro owners that, all the mods can be done under the shield.
Compared to the XtremeMusic/XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Pro the design have not changed dramaticly. Or at least not on the part where it needs a modification. Because of this, i don’t need to give the same description about the effect as above.
Decoupling capacitors: I suggest to use the purple (NOS) Silmic II capacitors. The newer series are maybe better, but the size is problematic, as you can see on the previous pictures. These caps are tested, opened and seems to be genuine Elnas. The legs are not magnetic.
Other caps on the front: They are connected to the DAC, and two of them under the decoupling capacitors to other circuits as well. Use any audio grade caps according to your taste or budget, but to get the best results, stick to the High-End.
Bypass caps: Added to the 3 capacitors around the DAC and one for the capacitor near the regulator. The suggested ratio is max 1% of the capacitance, but 0.1uF 63V or 100V can do fine.
Oscillator (TCXO): The installation is more or less the same as on the other cards. The output of the osillator needs to be connected to the hole closer to the X-Fi chip. The source of the +5V is the output pin of the regulator near the optical connectors, the GND is the small copper square near the right leg of the crystal. Use a tape on the panel to avoid shorting circuit. The legs can be cut back or bend according to needs.
OpAmps: They can be removed by cutting or desoldering, just like on the photo. I have used 4pcs OPA1602AID without sockets this time. Solder sucker works better for me than desoldering braid to remove excess solder from the pins.
Bypass ower decoupling capacitors: Just an experiment, the results are strongly depend on the quality and value of the used components. If you are interested in playing with it, try MKP, MKS, or lower quality MKT arround 63V-100V. Unfortunaltely the space gives a limit to use something better.
Few useful links to items on eBay: (I hope they will last for a while)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FINE-LOW-MELT-POINT-FLUXED-SOLDER-WIRE-0-4mm-DIAMETER-6-MTRS-/360452481715?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item53eca462b3
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-ELNA-SILMIC-Electrolytic-Capacitors-22uF-16V-/320687596301?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aaa78630d
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Valab-1PPM-24-5760-MHz-Low-Jitter-Precision-TCXO-/300641150147?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45ff9be4c3
Titanium HD
I haven’t found any lead how or what to change on the card so i had to try and figure out myself. Im sure there are others who can do these things better and progress further. This is not exactly a guide, best to say that something i have tried. I have only examined the effect on the front speakers, trough the analog and optical connection.
How to change the crystal
Basically the same as on the XtremeMusic with few differences in the connections. The right hole near the X-Fi chip is the place of the output of the oscillator on this card. A good spot for the ground just beside the crystal, the small copper square on the right. In this mod i have decided to get the +5V power from the output of the LM1117 regulator just to do things simple. This way all of the wires and the TCXO remain under the shield. Of course if you do not like the idea to interfere with the job of the regulator, the external powering also can work from a Molex. (red wire +5v, black GND)
The replacement of the capacitors:
So far, the safe way to get rid of the SMT capacitors is to twist them with pliers. I had some other attempts, and ended up with nice damages on the PCB. Desoldering is risky because it requires high temperature and taking too long. If you decide to change capacitors on the card there is a possibility that the shield will not fit on the card any more.
Coupling capacitors: I have used Silver Mica capacitors instead of the other good brand film caps. Micas are cold and agressive, still the best to improve clarity. I have noticed only a tiny improvement after the replacement. Having different values of the capacitors had no further effect on the sound.
Decoupling Capacitors: Elna Silmic II is my best bet as usual, one of the most noticable is the better bass and more comfort for the ears. The 0,1uf 63v polystyrene bypass capacitors can add some small detail to the sound. I had to use both sides of the card to be able to install all the capacitors and two metal film resistors. The original value is 560 Ohm on the card. (i have only 470 Ohm in the photo)
Shortening capacitors also an option, however hardly can be called as an upgrade. The sound was becoming clean but unfortunately flat (poor mid and poorer low range).
Caps around DAC: just a small improvement for the 3D space.
Capacitros for the OpAmps: Not worth to change them alone.
Main capacitor for the X-Fi chip: Hoops! I can not find any. The 47uf capacitor in the bottom right corner is connected to the RAM.
Capacitors near the digital output: After the recap of the whole corner i have noticed significant improvements in the low range sounds on the analog and digital output both. I have tried to play with capacitances, later i have removed all the capacitors, and i heard nothing to support my previous experience. My best guess was that i had a faulty capacitor on my second-hand card. Solid-polymer capacitors have a tendency to fail shortend. (Many time wasted on to upgrade my external DACs so it was not something that i overlooked)
I have to say that the Creative made a big step to use better capacitors on the Titanium HD. The change of the capacitors can bring too small improvements for the sound comparing to the older X-Fi models. Too much pain for a little gain. To verify my experience i bougt another Titanium HD meanwhile to be sure. Probably you figured i did not fall in love with RMAA, just only the sound i can hear, so i gladly sacrificed the shield of the card and used a bit longer wires for better components.
If you are not looking for adventures best bang for the money is to change the OpAmps and the crystal to an ultraprecision clock and be happy.
Edited by ramachandra - 8/10/12 at 6:15pm
. But thanks anyway, and I'll keep all of this in mind.
The first 4 capacitors on top belongs to the to the front speakers, the other 12 to the surrounds. I will update the picture & description.
)
