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Fostex T50RP modification summary links - Page 3

post #31 of 87
Quote:
Originally Posted by dogears View Post

Here's my Stupendous T50RPs on my stupendous headphone stand - once called a banana stand biggrin.gif

N82_1551-fostex.jpg

Piece of leather 'strap' placed around the sandwiched pads to make it more stupendously appealing


Looks nice and comfortable !

The thread's name should be "Fostex T50RP or how to build your own high end headphones" biggrin.gif
post #32 of 87
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBomb77766 View Post

Still not sure about the best place to get them in Canada though...but I guess $10-$20 shipping + about $20 taxes isn't all that bad...but I'd rather avoid large shipping costs if at all possible.

 

joelpearce directed me to Long & McQuade, where I got mine. $100Can. They shipped them from one of their TO stores to the one here in Calgary. No charge for shipping, I just had to pick them up in-store.
 

post #33 of 87

I'm tempted to remove the white felt on the back of the driver.  Is the thicker felt to replace it a requirement?  Also, it doesn't seem easy to remove, how did everyone else remove it?

post #34 of 87
Quote:
Originally Posted by micmacmo View Post

 

joelpearce directed me to Long & McQuade, where I got mine. $100Can. They shipped them from one of their TO stores to the one here in Calgary. No charge for shipping, I just had to pick them up in-store.
 



Awesome, thanks, that should make things easier.  I guess it'd still cost pretty much the same no matter where I buy them from then.

post #35 of 87
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadspider187 View Post

I'm tempted to remove the white felt on the back of the driver.  Is the thicker felt to replace it a requirement?  Also, it doesn't seem easy to remove, how did everyone else remove it?



http://www.head-fi.org/t/452404/just-listened-to-some-fostex-t50rps-today-wow/2610

 

post 2620 for instructions about removing the white felt from the backs of the drivers in one piece.  This allows you to save them in case you want to go back to stock.

 

post 2611 for an explanation about the small vent hole on the ear side of the baffle.

post #36 of 87

Thanks for the response.  I got impatient and removed it yesterday.  I actually poked through the white felt with a flathead screwdriver, then slowly ripped it up with my fingers from top to bottom.  I did end up seeing a post where a guy removed the white felt in one piece, but I'm not that good, it was getting destroyed either way.  The sound seems less 'spiky', for a lack of better words, after removing the white felt, and the bass seems better controlled, but I feel I may be hitting the limit on these cans with a PA2V2.  Time for a amp upgrade methinks.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post





http://www.head-fi.org/t/452404/just-listened-to-some-fostex-t50rps-today-wow/2610

 

post 2620 for instructions about removing the white felt from the backs of the drivers in one piece.  This allows you to save them in case you want to go back to stock.

 

post 2611 for an explanation about the small vent hole on the ear side of the baffle.



 

post #37 of 87
Thread Starter 

updated

post #38 of 87

Here's some measurements:

 

From doctorhead.ru

 

Waterfall plots:

 

Stock T50rp

 

LFF mod

 

Anaxilus mod

 

From He&Bi

post #39 of 87

^By the looks of it, I'm guessing I may have same preference with LFF's sound sig.

 

@Anax, which custom or universal is your T50RP closer to in terms of overall sound sig?

 

edit: I'll read on those threads further - looks very interesting biggrin.gif


Edited by dogears - 9/21/11 at 7:08pm
post #40 of 87
Quote:
Originally Posted by dogears View Post

^By the looks of it, I'm guessing I may have same preference with LFF's sound sig.

 


As I have said before...I feel my mods make the T50RP very natural and neutral sounding. It sounds fast and linear.

 

If you prefer any other sound signature other than natural and neutral, then my mods are NOT for you.

 

post #41 of 87

Hm, what does the Thunderpands mod consist of, other than the wood cups?

post #42 of 87
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBomb77766 View Post

Hm, what does the Thunderpands mod consist of, other than the wood cups?



Everything is replaced except the drivers and stock pads.

 

 

post #43 of 87
Quote:
Originally Posted by LFF View Post





Everything is replaced except the drivers and stock pads.

 

 



Wow, that  must have been a lot of work.  Odd the pads weren't changed though.  Has anyone else tried a total conversion mod like that before?

post #44 of 87
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaBomb77766 View Post





Wow, that  must have been a lot of work.  Odd the pads weren't changed though.  Has anyone else tried a total conversion mod like that before?


The pads can be changed but the stock Thunderpants use the stock Fostex pads.

 

I believe another person tried a full conversion mod but the results were less than spectacular....

 

post #45 of 87

Okay, I'm ready to post the tutorial for my "Omega" mod.  I'm calling them that, because I am officially never opening these things again.  A/Bing them with my Thunderpants, I think I'm about as close as I can get without going that full-scale.  They have absolutely no resonance issues, and plenty of bass without having that boomy mid-bass hump that they tend to have.  They also retain all of the energy the T50RP can have when the material is removed from the back of the driver.  They also have nicely peppy treble, without being bright or harsh.  I want to send a shout out to all of the people that shared ideas and materials--this mod is mostly me putting together ideas from various other mods and then a year or so of trial and error.

 

Materials Required:

-Dynamat

-Paxmate

-Micropore medical tape

-Roxul Safe 'n Sound or other rock wool insulation

-A Pair of Shure SRH-840 pads

-cheap craft felt

-some decent glue

 

 

All right, let's get started.

 

omega1.jpg

1. There's a thin layer of dynamat at the back of the cups, with the foil removed.  This is annoying, and I don't know how much difference it makes.  More dynamat fills the baffle holes, and I used a screwdriver to make holes.  A small piece of Micropore is in the center of the driver.  I'm not sure whether you would get enough treble without this.

 

omega2.jpg

2. Cut a piece of Paxmate that will fit in the bottom of the cup, then push it against the supports and center with the paper still on so that you can see where to cut out.  Carefully stick it to the bottom of the cup.  Make a hole so that about 1/4-1/3 of one vent hole is left open.  Meanwhile, glue a square of the felt over the driver, careful to not plug the baffle vent hole.

 

omega3.jpg

3. You will notice mine have been recabled, which is entirely optional, but saves some future headaches.  Cut a slice of Rock Wool Insulation the size of the felt about 1cm thick, then set it over the felt.  You can now close the cups, careful not to slide the insulation around in there.

 

omega4.jpg

Finally, remove the material over the baffle side of the driver except the dust shield.  Cut more Paxmate to cover the flat part of the baffle, leaving a hole for the baffle vent (this is very important).

 

Now you can put on the Shure pads (I have not yet tried this build with the stock pads).

 

And that's about it.  Hope this is helpful for someone.

 

 

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