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Schiit Lyr - The tube rolling thread - Page 371  

post #5551 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamnothim View Post

next question...


Just checking--I just got EBAY to refund my money--Totally tired of waiting!!!!

 

Jack

post #5552 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamnothim View Post

OK, I'm sure I can google this..... what is/are Cryo's  A Cryogenic process I assume.

I've seen it on HP custom cables.  But never for valves.

 

YET, I've read post where guys talk about cryo tubes.

 

Please edjamakate me.

The RTCs I sent to you were Cryos. I am not sure where I got this, but I had it saved on word to show a friend after he called me Han Solo:

 

 

Cryogenic treatment is a process where a product (VACUUM TUBES)is tempered in a deep freeze process(-300F) for 48 hrs. This process produces a permanent change in the metals inside this product making it stronger and longer lasting. Tools, instruments, knives, razor blades, machinery parts have been Cryo Treated for many years.Why do this to tubes?Tubes are mostly metal inside so Cryo treating tubes has the following benefits: permanent change in the metals at the molecular level(more uniform grain structure of metals), longer lasting, tightens internal parts of the tube allowing for more efficient operation. and superior conductivity!


Edited by Fearless1 - 2/27/13 at 12:10pm
post #5553 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fearless1 View Post

The RTCs I sent to you were Cryos. I am not sure where I got this, but I had it saved on word to show a friend after he called me Han Solo:

 

 

Cryogenic treatment is a process where a product (VACUUM TUBES)is tempered in a deep freeze process(-300F) for 48 hrs. This process produces a permanent change in the metals inside this product making it stronger and longer lasting. Tools, instruments, knives, razor blades, machinery parts have been Cryo Treated for many years.Why do this to tubes?Tubes are mostly metal inside so Cryo treating tubes has the following benefits: permanent change in the metals at the molecular level(more uniform grain structure of metals), longer lasting, tightens internal parts of the tube allowing for more efficient operation. and superior conductivity!

Do they add an olive?

post #5554 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackiedh View Post


Just checking--I just got EBAY to refund my money--Totally tired of waiting!!!!

 

Jack

I'm on the fence.

I'll give them until Friday.

post #5555 of 8735

Hi folks - I finally broke down and have a nicely modded Lyr on the way.  This will be my first tube gear in years - I used to have an Onix tube amp for my monitors, and want to give a tube headamp a shot.

 

I don't know that I'll do a ton of rolling, but am thinking that some tube savers would also lift the tubes a bit out of the Lyr's casing, which would be nice - might as well see them, right?  Any particular savers that you guys like?  It sounds like the Triode Flipper ones from Tubemonger aren't necessary.  Is there a less expensive, but decent quality, option?

 

Thanks in advance!

post #5556 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slowfade View Post

 

They just plug in like a tube, then the tube plugs into it. They just go in between the tube and the socket on the amps motherboard.

 

A pic from http://www.tubemonger.com/

 

 

 

By the way, I would highly recommend you remove the plastic labels and clean off the glue before installing these. The gummy stuff holding them on tends to soften/melt with use and if you remove a tube when still warm the melted glue can gunk up the tube socket.

post #5557 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdaneel View Post

Hi folks - I finally broke down and have a nicely modded Lyr on the way.  This will be my first tube gear in years - I used to have an Onix tube amp for my monitors, and want to give a tube headamp a shot.

 

I don't know that I'll do a ton of rolling, but am thinking that some tube savers would also lift the tubes a bit out of the Lyr's casing, which would be nice - might as well see them, right?  Any particular savers that you guys like?  It sounds like the Triode Flipper ones from Tubemonger aren't necessary.  Is there a less expensive, but decent quality, option?

 

Thanks in advance!

Hello and welcome.

 

I've had the inexpensive $10 each extenders

http://audiotubes.com/books.htm

 

Now I have Tubemongers (non-flipping) extenders.  It's a much better product.  The contacts are better and, my extenders at least, stay in the Lyr when I'm changing tubes.

 

May I ask, what is a "nicely modded" Lyr?

I am unaware of any modification to the Lyr and what the benefit is.

I can't imagine changing anything inside that would be worth voiding the 5 year warranty.

post #5558 of 8735

Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamnothim View Post

May I ask, what is a "nicely modded" Lyr?

 

 

Thanks for the welcome and the advice on the socket savers!  As for the mods, Empirical Audio got a Lyr to use for a demo, modded it before use,  then sold it off.  The mods were to replace stock parts with some upgraded equivalents.  I obviously can't speak to the results until I hear the amp, but Empirical has a great reputation for their mod work, so I thought it was worth giving up the warranty.

 

The mods include:

 

1) swap in 4 high-voltage PentaCap teflon signal coupling caps to replace the stock Wima Polypropylene caps

2) swap in high-voltage Black-Gate electrolytic cap for plate voltage

3) addition of a couple Panasonic low-ESR series electrolytics to replace inexpensive caps for low-voltage decoupling

4) addition of high-voltage HF decoupling cap for plate voltage

5) addition of 4 low-voltage HF decoupling caps

post #5559 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdaneel View Post

 

Thanks for the welcome and the advice on the socket savers!  As for the mods, Empirical Audio got a Lyr to use for a demo, modded it before use,  then sold it off.  The mods were to replace stock parts with some upgraded equivalents.  I obviously can't speak to the results until I hear the amp, but Empirical has a great reputation for their mod work, so I thought it was worth giving up the warranty.

 

The mods include:

 

1) swap in 4 high-voltage PentaCap teflon signal coupling caps to replace the stock Wima Polypropylene caps

2) swap in high-voltage Black-Gate electrolytic cap for plate voltage

3) addition of a couple Panasonic low-ESR series electrolytics to replace inexpensive caps for low-voltage decoupling

4) addition of high-voltage HF decoupling cap for plate voltage

5) addition of 4 low-voltage HF decoupling caps

Interesting.

 

Thanks.

post #5560 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdaneel View Post

 This will be my first tube gear in years - I used to have an Onix tube amp for my monitors, and want to give a tube headamp a shot.

 

This one?

 

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 90

I have this amp and love it..... About to sell though, I just got offered a Conrad Johnson setup.

post #5561 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by R Scott Ireland View Post

 

By the way, I would highly recommend you remove the plastic labels and clean off the glue before installing these. The gummy stuff holding them on tends to soften/melt with use and if you remove a tube when still warm the melted glue can gunk up the tube socket.

can anyone else agree with this statement? Now i'm a little scared since even i don't know how i'll be pulling these socket savers out.

post #5562 of 8735

Brimar CV2492s came in today's mail.  This is my first set of British made tubes, quite a bit different to what I am used to.   These are really warm, smooth and expansive.   Vocals are amazing through them.  Might be the best I've heard yet.   It bums me out that they are so hard to find frown.gif



EDIT: Yep, these are it. Just unbelievably perfect tube in every possible way, mids, treble, punchy bass, dynamics, detail, staging ... hits every mark. I love this tube!
Edited by toschek - 2/27/13 at 7:30pm
post #5563 of 8735
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniperbombers View Post

can anyone else agree with this statement? Now i'm a little scared since even i don't know how i'll be pulling these socket savers out.

I never had any problems with the glue or labels and I have used mine in the Lyr for hundreds of hours.  Usually, when you remove the tubes (even warm), you are pulling on the tube, not the socket saver.  I haven't had any issues the other poster described and I haven't seen anybody else mention it.  Not to say the other poster is wrong...that may be the experience he had with the socket savers.

 

Consider this for removing the tubes: http://www.amazon.com/Electro-Harmonix-EH-Tube-Glove/dp/B000UMCLIC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1362024593&sr=8-1&keywords=tube+glove

I've used one for two years with no trouble.

 

Cheers!beerchug.gif

-HK sends


Edited by HK_sends - 2/27/13 at 8:11pm
post #5564 of 8735
Eddie, yes that was the one. I liked the thing, but hated the black of remote volume control. Then i went with a digital room correcting integrated and the UNIX had to find another home... Good luck with your Conrad Johnson setup, should be awesome!
post #5565 of 8735

Tube extender goo.

 

Thermocoupler around a valve for 30 minutes.

131.0 deg F.

minus

98.6 

delta

32.4 deg F.

So the opposite of picking up an ice cube.

I just can't see the glue melting.  The product is very well made.

Note:  The valve in this test was extended outside the Lyr enclosure.

You would have to add the ambient temp inside the case.  (I'm not going to do that)

 

 


Edited by Iamnothim - 2/27/13 at 8:48pm
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