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Superlux Express Train - Page 49

post #721 of 951

Thank you.

 

There are sibilances, but on what DAC - cold/neutral/warm? I am wondering about buying warm DAP in the future. There shouldn't be sibilances, on warm DAP, right?

 

Is hardware filter = software EQ in quallity and solving problem with trebles or the filter is better? How much does it cost and where can I buy it? But I'd prefer EQ because of lack of money... Can you tell me what frequences should be cutted in 681 and what in 662f?

post #722 of 951
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoiL View Post
 

"I have both and I agree, bass quality is better with HD-662F - main difference is tighter bass but it wont go so deep. HD-681 (red) has much more enjoyable bass due to deep end and amount."

 

-> I have both too, and totally agree.

 

----------------------------------------------

 

Both cans have SSsss sibilance and harshness and require one of the hardware filter mods (Fran`s mkII or mkIII mod) if you don`t want to use EQ. For HD-662F there`s same mod but with different values.

 

-> IMO, the 681s (red) don't require a filter at all. Just find velour pads (AKG 240 for me) and the headphone will sound amazingly good for its price, with detailed highs, punchy and clean bass, and highly improved and excellent mids (vocals, strings, etc.).

The 662F on the other side is a pure studio monitoring headphone and it is relentless with bad recordings, especially high frequencies; and that is exactly what a good studio headphone is supposed to do: reveal sibilance, overwhelming bass, recessed mids, and what else... it's like a sound microscope.

post #723 of 951

I want cheap, high detailed, closed headphones good sounding in metal music. I have no alternatives than 662F, right? I read in other topic that they are amazing in metal. And 662 is more V so trebles are probably worse. I read too that 662B are < 662F in listening to the music. So I have no other options (have I?)

 

BUT - I want to have a little smoother trebles in 662F. Isn't there any way to do it, because it's studio monitoring headphone? :) Come on, I know it. All I need to know is how to make sibilance trebles little less sibilance. I asked: does warmer DAP solve the problem? And/or does EQ solve this problem a little too?

post #724 of 951
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hairspray View Post
 
Quote:

-> IMO, the 681s (red) don't require a filter at all. Just find velour pads (AKG 240 for me) and the headphone will sound amazingly good for its price, with detailed highs, punchy and clean bass, and highly improved and excellent mids (vocals, strings, etc.).

The 662F on the other side is a pure studio monitoring headphone and it is relentless with bad recordings, especially high frequencies; and that is exactly what a good studio headphone is supposed to do: reveal sibilance, overwhelming bass, recessed mids, and what else... it's like a sound microscope.

Everything is subjective. I do not agree with you @ HD-681 part. Maybe your ears just aren`t so sensitive. Anyway, if you read everywhere from internet then major opinion is that they DO require filter or to be EQ-d, even with velour pads. I`ve tried 3 different pads and finally made my own custom ones but none of them removed harsh highs. Only way is EQ or filter mod.


Edited by CoiL - 12/6/13 at 2:08pm
post #725 of 951
Quote:
BUT - I want to have a little smoother trebles in 662F. Isn't there any way to do it, because it's studio monitoring headphone? :) Come on, I know it. All I need to know is how to make sibilance trebles little less sibilance. I asked: does warmer DAP solve the problem? And/or does EQ solve this problem a little too?

 

No, warmer DAC/DAP doesn`t resolve harsh highs sibilance problem. I have Aune T1 tube DAC with lots of very warm sounding tubes and it doesn`t help. Just go for HD-662F and do filter mod ;) It`s awesome with rock/progressive/metal/djent.


Edited by CoiL - 12/6/13 at 8:46am
post #726 of 951
sry, duplicate post.

Edited by CoiL - 12/6/13 at 8:44am
post #727 of 951
HD-681 & HD-662F filter modification info! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoiL View Post
 

In case of production/advertisement it`s probably same series headphone which has been upgraded a little to address it`s "problems".

 

In case of modding, it means certain filter mod for HD681 for example (medium mkII hardware filter).

 

I`m going to put some info (collected from RG forum modification thread) into this thread for everyone who want to mod their HD-681 (red rings) or HD-662F:

 

Link to HD-681 modifications thread: http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/thread/4769/superlux-hd-681-modifications

 

Link to HD-681 medium mkII filter: http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/thread/4769/superlux-hd-681-modifications?page=26&scrollTo=70109

 

Link to HD-662F filter mod: http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/post/124411/thread

 

And here`s detailed information about filter components:

 

 

Quote:
Filter components:
 
Resistors: 
 
use wirewound, Metal film, carbon whatever you like or feel will be better.
 
Not of any importance really in this application as long as the wattage is 
ABOVE 0.25W (which most resistors are)
 
 
capacitor 1uF:
 
Multicomp MCRR50105Z5UM00050 = Farnell order code 121-6447
 
or:
 
Multicomp MCRR50105X7RK00050 = Farnell order code 121-6443 (used by me)
 
or:
 
AVX SR305C105KTR = Farnell order code 110-0398
 
or:
 
AVX SA305E10MARTB = Farnell order code 110-0420
 
 
 
Inductor (choke coil):
 
 
EPCOS B82144A2474J = Farnell order code 517-070 (used by me)
 
or:
 
EPCOS B82145A1474J000 = Farnell order code 164-4331
 
 
or any other small coil, inductor, choke with 470uH and a resistance of 
equal or lower than 2.5 Ohms.
 
 
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
 
Only the resistor values are to be altered.
 
You can vary the resistor value 
of R3 and R4 (now 39 Ohms) between 27 (to little damping of high freq) to 
120 Ohms (a bit too much damping of high freq.). You can put a 100 Ohms 
potentiometer in it's place and fiddle with the settings for instance.
 
 
 
If the resistor value of R3/R4 is between 25 and 50 Ohms use 56 Ohm resistors for R1/R2
 
If the resistor value of R3/R4 is between 50 and 75 Ohms use 47 Ohm resistors for R1/R2
 
If the resistor value of R3/R4 is between 75 and 150 Ohms use 39 Ohm resistors for R1/R2
 
 
 
The capacitor and inductor need not to be changed as these are the frequency 
determining parts of the filter.
 
 Resistor R3/R4 determines the Q factor of the 
filter AND amount (dB) of filtering at the filter frequency.
 
The center frequency is around 7.2kHz.
L1,C1,R1,L2,C2,R2 are for compensating 
the impedance peak which is caused by the filter network L3,L4,R3,R4,C3,C4.
 
 
You can leave L1,C1,R1,L2,C2,R2 out IF you want if you are ONLY going 
to use these cans on a low Z output amp (around 10 Ohms). 
 
In all other circumstances (output impedance between say .. 20 Ohms and 600 
Ohms or unknown) this part (L1,C1,R1,L2,C2,R2) of the filter network is ESSENTIAL 
in obtaining the right amount of damping.
 
 
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
 
maximum highs, sibilance gone HD681 character remains (first filter):
 
R1=R2=56 Ohm
R3=R4=39 Ohm
 
 
 
slightly less treble but still close to original HD681 character:
 
R1=R2=56 Ohm
R3=R4=47 Ohm
 
 
 
less treble but still brighter then Sennheiser signature in general (second filter):
 
R1=R2=39 Ohm
R3=R4=56 Ohm
 
 
 
About equal to Sennheiser signature in general bass more prominent:
 
R1=R2=39 Ohm
R3=R4=82 Ohm
 
 
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
 
Capacitors:
 
 
Some say polyprop sounds better (in this picture).
Some will say mica or 
silver-mica is better, yet not available in these values.
 Multitlayer ceramics 
(X7R is preferred over Z5U) are small and can be used inside the headphone without 
taking up too much space. There are also smaller sized polypropyline avaiable.
 
The voltage (which determines the size) is not of importance. 
 
For external filters 
the sky is the limit (money wise) and can be constructed to your audio religion.
 
 
 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
 
Q: For the orginal HD681 filter from the very first page, say I want to attenuate 
the ~7.25 kHz frequency 3db rather than 6db? I replace the resistor in parallel 
part of the filter with one of lower value correct? What value would I use? 
 
 
 
A: Parallel filter (the one in series with the driver) between 27 and 33 Ohm
series 
filter (on the input of the filter) R = 68 Ohm
 

 

Have fun modding your HD-681 or HD-662F ...I`m loving these cans! Filter modded HD-662F = great neutral balanced headphone for analytical & studio listening. Filter modded (medium mkII filter) HD-681 (red rings) with velour or custom pads = great dynamical and fun sounding (not muddy) with little extension in both, highs and lows, with great mids section and large clear soundstage.

 

 

Soon Frans is going to release modding guide for HD-681 EVO too. 

 

 

post #728 of 951

Thx. I can't do it on my own. I have to find someone to do it.

 

Link to HD-662F filter mod doesn't work.

post #729 of 951

Hmmm... works for me but I will copy filter values here:
 

Quote:
HD-662F filter mod:
 
r1 = r2 = 47 Ohm
r3 = r4 = 51 Ohm (56 Ohm if guitars and cymbals feel too bright)
C1 = C2 = C3 = C4 = 1.33uF (1uF // 330nF)
L1 = L2 = L3 = L4 = 470uH

 

Edit: Oh, and if you are going to let someone do that soldering, I strongly recommend to change stock cable! Pseudo or not

but both cans turned to better sounding after dual-entry re-cabling imho. 


Edited by CoiL - 12/6/13 at 2:12pm
post #730 of 951

Thx for edit tip with recabling. Can you explain me, please, what is "dual-entry" re-cabling? 1 cable to one can and 2 cable to 2 can without connector between cans?

post #731 of 951

Dual-entry cable is like Y cable - one end goes to 1st cup, 2nd to 2nd. Like in this pic: http://images.ecwid.com/images/1139068/45233848.jpg

post #732 of 951

Which filter do you have on your headphones? MKI or Medium MKII? I wrote to the modder to ask about this mod and he told, he did it to his own 681, but he didn't remember which one (told that the one that should cut treble as much as it is possible - to something like Sennheiser). BUT - he told that it broke the sound, trebles sounded very factitious (don't know if I translated it good), very weird. It was like the trumpet has an extra tin and sounded unnatural.

post #733 of 951

I`m using MKII medium filter on my HD-681 red. I don`t understand why you are talking about cutting treble as much as possible... there`s no need to go further than MKII resistor values imho. You could also use trim pots. It`s just an opportunity to choose filter values to match your hearing/dac/amp/source. There`s also newer MK3 mod that can be found @ diyaudioheaven. Since I`m happy with MKII, haven`t tried MK3 yet but going to soon.


Edited by CoiL - 12/7/13 at 5:57pm
post #734 of 951

Hey guys, I'm looking for some comparison between 681 (red ring version) and the 681 Evo. I'm very happy with my 681, except for the shrill treble. Did the Evo fix this? And if it did, was "liveliness" or any other aspect sacrificed for that? Not to mention the Evo would be an upgrade in terms of build quality and comfort :D

post #735 of 951

But there are 2 versions of 681Evo as far as I know. I have 681 EVO MKII with velour pads. Read this: http://www.mediafire.com/view/av6k1rhkv5lwol6/Superlux_HD681_EVO.pdf

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