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SR60-Mod - Page 251  

post #3751 of 5003
Bill, those new pictures are making me itch to get my cans back! I really can't wait to see my shells, your work is looking awesome. Also, I have made a good amount of organic body jewelry with a lathe before so I might be able to help with any questions, etc. My lathe was stolen from my garage a few months ago, or else I would join in on the shell making awesomeness in here. I'll get one again soon, haha.
post #3752 of 5003

So now I've got the Dynamat . Has there been any general consensus about where and how much Dynamat has the best affect on sound .

 

And the same question for the number of holes . I realize this to sum extent will be about personal choice but there must be some limit of either having too much or too less holes and Dynamat .

 

With the Dynamat I can add and remove until I have found the balance that sounds best ,though I don't have any felt so don't really want to punch anymore holes as yet .

 

So what experience have people got with SR80i's , the balance of a 4 hole shell & Dynamat ?

post #3753 of 5003

I've just read a post saying not to cover up the 2 tiny holes on the back of the driver with dynamat! .

 

It would be really cool if someone could condense this modding information into a useful Grado modding Guide .

 

 

post #3754 of 5003


I have to disagree! I've been an amateur sawdust maker for many years and I love the look (and smell) of pine. The first thing I thought when I say Bill's samples was, "Hey, pine would be a cool -- albeit unusual -- choice for cups!" The real problem with using pine is that it's a soft wood and would require lots of attention in terms of applying a protective topcoat...

 

Me likey! But that's just me.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by xaval View Post

Nice work Bill with the new toy.

I like both designs albeit pine doesn't look like it will be a big seller lol, but it's enough to get the picture and much cheaper to make mistakes with :)

 

The GS looks nicer if the added weight is insignificant. I also quite like the way the mesh fits into the whole picture.



 

post #3755 of 5003

My problem with pine would be if you dropped your headphones are even bumped them against something, you'd probably be left with a big ol' dent in your shell. Pine is just too soft. If it's not seasoned right, you might also deal with cracking, shrinking, splitting, etc.

 

However, that said, pine is slightly bright, resonant, has a good all around response and is cheap as dirt. Some of the best telecasters ever made were made from pine. I built a guitar body for a friend a few years ago from two pieces of pine I bought for $8 at Lowes and it sounded wonderful, but dented very easily. You could see anywhere it was ever dropped or scratched at all, but that made for good memories of good times, haha.

post #3756 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by xaval View Post

Nice work Bill with the new toy.

I like both designs albeit pine doesn't look like it will be a big seller lol, but it's enough to get the picture and much cheaper to make mistakes with :)

 

The GS looks nicer if the added weight is insignificant. I also quite like the way the mesh fits into the whole picture.


I like to use the softwoods to make demos.  Pine and a few others are easy to cut and less expensive to mangle.

 

Originally Posted by unchain View Post

Bill, those new pictures are making me itch to get my cans back! I really can't wait to see my shells, your work is looking awesome. Also, I have made a good amount of organic body jewelry with a lathe before so I might be able to help with any questions, etc. My lathe was stolen from my garage a few months ago, or else I would join in on the shell making awesomeness in here. I'll get one again soon, haha.


This is the moment of truth.  I can't tell you how excited I am.  It's as if so many tumblers are falling into place.

 

Originally Posted by one19 View Post

I have to disagree! I've been an amateur sawdust maker for many years and I love the look (and smell) of pine. The first thing I thought when I say Bill's samples was, "Hey, pine would be a cool -- albeit unusual -- choice for cups!" The real problem with using pine is that it's a soft wood and would require lots of attention in terms of applying a protective topcoat...

 

Me likey! But that's just me.

 


Pine IS a cool wood to work with.  It's sonically quite neutral and it's very lightweight.  I also think it has a nice look to it when lacquered.  It's just more vulnerable to knocks and bumps than hardwood.  Knowing its structural properties, it's best not to force it into a situation where it'll disappoint.  A thick piece of pine is more reliable than a thin one.  When using it, it's best to play to its strengths.

 

Originally Posted by unchain View Post

My problem with pine would be if you dropped your headphones are even bumped them against something, you'd probably be left with a big ol' dent in your shell. Pine is just too soft. If it's not seasoned right, you might also deal with cracking, shrinking, splitting, etc.

 

However, that said, pine is slightly bright, resonant, has a good all around response and is cheap as dirt. Some of the best telecasters ever made were made from pine. I built a guitar body for a friend a few years ago from two pieces of pine I bought for $8 at Lowes and it sounded wonderful, but dented very easily. You could see anywhere it was ever dropped or scratched at all, but that made for good memories of good times, haha.

 

Exactly!  You nailed it!  Pine may not be Brazilian rosewood but it's vastly less expensive, easier to work with and has a much nicer sound than something like plastic.  Pine would make a nice inner because it would be more protected and produce a less muted sound than some of the bassier hardwoods.  Inners don't need to be as durable as outers and the bass response of some of my favorite tonewoods actually require certain tweaks, such as big, foamy pads to improve HF.

post #3757 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by ib1dance View Post

So now I've got the Dynamat . Has there been any general consensus about where and how much Dynamat has the best affect on sound .

 

And the same question for the number of holes . I realize this to sum extent will be about personal choice but there must be some limit of either having too much or too less holes and Dynamat .

 

With the Dynamat I can add and remove until I have found the balance that sounds best ,though I don't have any felt so don't really want to punch anymore holes as yet .

 

So what experience have people got with SR80i's , the balance of a 4 hole shell & Dynamat ?


SR80i you said?

 

I punched all 8 holes and the bass feels too bloated, IMO, its just too much for me, but i am not a basshead. I havent cover the wholes back, But i will be doing that soon

 

post #3758 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by ib1dance View Post



 

Venting = improved clarity :-) + a more defined bass .

 

The shells came apart very smoothly after about 5 minutes of steam .

 

Initially I cut out two holes on one side and left the other as it was . I loaded up a music production program and Got a Bass drum , kick and snare playing  & sent a mono signal to the headphones .I was   blind testing to make sure that placebo wasn't driving my decision making process. I  kept swapping the headphone shells  around so I did not know which one had been vented(The only way I could tell  was by shinning a torch through the back of the shell).

 

On the first few listens I was certain which sounded best and correctly choose the vented shell.Though after further tests I could only detect a trace of something different between each driver,  it wasn't significant enough for me to accurate choose the vented shell .

 

So I decided to go for 4 holes thinking I'd cover them up with masking tape if I disliked any results . And that extra 2 holes made a clear &  noticeable improvement  of the overall performance of the vented shell . The bass was extended and more dynamic .The vented shell had a far more responsive attack, Decay ,Sustain and release of the Drums.The Slightly sibilant highs had become less noticeable as there volume was more balanced with the lows.Individual Rhythms were far more clearly focused as they had found more space to play .

 

More Thud but not Mud :-) .Less Glare and more sparkle :-) . << for the technically  learned .

 

I kept swapping the shells over randomly and it sounded 'clear' which was the vented shell . It was easy to tell the difference between the vented and non vented on my SR80i's .

So both shells now have 4 holes in each .whoa! I can really connect with these now. darthsmile.gif

 

 

 

.If anyone  does not hear the difference between vented and a non vented shell , try the feeling approach .

 

Listen to some music with Drums and Bass with a Fast Attack and release as they offer the most instant power .Close you eyes and focus on the  vibration.Feel the pressure waves increasing and decreasing in the inner ear.

 

The vented driver "pumps" more basshead.gif  . And it is a defined pump not a irregular OmphHHHhhhhh.

 



Thanks for the Tips Bilavideo and company :-)


Glad to hear it worked out for you!

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by ib1dance View Post

So now I've got the Dynamat . Has there been any general consensus about where and how much Dynamat has the best affect on sound .

 

And the same question for the number of holes . I realize this to sum extent will be about personal choice but there must be some limit of either having too much or too less holes and Dynamat .

 

With the Dynamat I can add and remove until I have found the balance that sounds best ,though I don't have any felt so don't really want to punch anymore holes as yet .

 

So what experience have people got with SR80i's , the balance of a 4 hole shell & Dynamat ?


I'll post pics of what I did with my dynamat. You can actually poke two holes with a small screwdriver to leave the magnet vented.  I've got 8 holes poked in my grado's and they sound balanced to me with the dynamat.



Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesMcProgger View Post




SR80i you said?

 

I punched all 8 holes and the bass feels too bloated, IMO, its just too much for me, but i am not a basshead. I havent cover the wholes back, But i will be doing that soon

 

Do you have dynamat on them? 
 

 

post #3759 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislangley4253 View Post




Glad to hear it worked out for you!

 




I'll post pics of what I did with my dynamat. You can actually poke two holes with a small screwdriver to leave the magnet vented.  I've got 8 holes poked in my grado's and they sound balanced to me with the dynamat.



Do you have dynamat on them? 
 

 



nope. itll put it when the wood cups gets here. meanwhile i could try with blu tack.

post #3760 of 5003

I had a theory about why a full liberation sounds better. I think it has more to do with the plastic being removed from the front of the driver than the driver "reacting" with the wood better due to there being lass plastic. I'm not sure if this was brought up but to me removing the material in front of the driver that is blocking sound would have more of an impact than the removal of plastic from the sides. Any thoughts on this? Because if my theory is correct you shouldn't have to do a full liberation you would just need to cut some of the plastic off that is in front of the driver, which may or may not be easier.

post #3761 of 5003

Its official, I need to find a cheapo pair of parts Grados. Its been way too long and this thread continues to intrigue me. Almost 3 months is too long......

post #3762 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

Its official, I need to find a cheapo pair of parts Grados. Its been way too long and this thread continues to intrigue me. Almost 3 months is too long......


Just drop $80 and pick up a new pair of SR60i Grados.  Most of the used Grados don't usually sell for very much of a discount.  

 

post #3763 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post




Just drop $80 and pick up a new pair of SR60i Grados.  Most of the used Grados don't usually sell for very much of a discount.  

 



I've seen SR60is gone for 55 to 65 in ebay. the other night was one with a screwed cable for 15$

post #3764 of 5003



 

Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

Its official, I need to find a cheapo pair of parts Grados. Its been way too long and this thread continues to intrigue me. Almost 3 months is too long......


Only three months? rolleyes.gif  Seriously, as I recall you where looking for a driver right? Well why not buy a pair of the i Grados for forty bucks and cannibalize them?
 

 

post #3765 of 5003

Bill is working with me to get me the driver I need. Hes a great guy, that Bilavideo.

 

I can't wait to listen again......

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