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SR60-Mod - Page 186  

post #2776 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by sysfail View Post

I just received my cups from Bill! Are there supposed to be metal grills on them already? Because mine doesn't. frown.gif

 



PM him, mine included grills

post #2777 of 5003

HELP!

 

So the switch on my little dot 2+ got stuck last night so I had to open it up and fix the switch. Somehow in the process of doing so the wire soldered to the left input RCA jack broke off. I got some solder and a soldering iron at radioshack and fixed it. However, the left channel now seems like it has weaker signal. Thinking that it could be inferior solder I went and got some 62/36/2 silver solder and redid it. I was unable to get all the old solder off and the problem now still persists despite my liberal use of silver solder to make sure the wire contacted the jack.

 

What do you guys think? Could that little bit of crappy solder create such signal loss? For reference in foobar I have to boost the left channel by about 2 decibels to get it to the same relative loudness as the right, however I feel the the highs are more muffled and everything is less detailed in general.

 

Do I get a new jack? Could it be something else? Help!

post #2778 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by eclein View Post

Big Bill I must apologize, I had a real bad attitude the other day when I wrote the post about the headbands--Please except my apology!!

 

 

Thanks for your apology.  I saw your post and was a bit taken aback by it.  We all have to realize that one individual working on a few headphone modifications each week as a hobby will usually have to take the back seat to our regular careers and our families.  Out of all the years on the various audio forums, I've only come across a very small number of situations where someone quickly disappeared and had thousands of other people's money in hand - but, didn't deliver the product as promised.  Like good wine, headphone modifications can't occur in just a very short time.  It takes time to get all the goods together to have the right combination.

 

Good luck on your health.  If I didn't live 300+ miles away, I'd offer my taxi services of getting you around.

 

post #2779 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post



 

Thanks for your apology.  I saw your post and was a bit taken aback by it.  We all have to realize that one individual working on a few headphone modifications each week as a hobby will usually have to take the back seat to our regular careers and our families.  Out of all the years on the various audio forums, I've only come across a very small number of situations where someone quickly disappeared and had thousands of other people's money in hand - but, didn't deliver the product as promised.  Like good wine, headphone modifications can't occur in just a very short time.  It takes time to get all the goods together to have the right combination.

 

Good luck on your health.  If I didn't live 300+ miles away, I'd offer my taxi services of getting you around.

 


When I read the post I thought nothing of it. It just sounded like a reminder that someone was looking forward to something they were expecting for some time.
post #2780 of 5003

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by JasonD View Post

 

My initial intent wasn't in modding the old pair.  I wanted to upgrade to a nicer Grado after trying out a couple other brands.  Then I figured, well once I have my nicer Grado to enjoy most of the time.. and the old pair won't really fetch all that much to sell, why not get a little creative with some wood cups?

 

My motivations aside, anyone got some advice for what kinda shape I should shoot for? Also 1-piece vs. 2-piece design?  TIA

 

That's pretty much what I was thinking when I got my HF2 Jason. One of the discussions that has gone on in here though has been about modding the 325. Some of the same stuff like venting the drivers but the big 325 mod seems to be removing some plastic ring inside the cup. That one seems to be a big hit for those that modded there 325. Personally I cant see paying the extra for the aluminum like you did for the 325 then discarding it for wood. One of the things I think Bill is working on is a wood inner that would house the driver and line the aluminum cup like the HF2. We now know the HF2's cup is lined with wood now that one of the denizens this thread, Schwallman had the audacity to crack open his HF2's. So that may be a way for you to go with your 325. Of course you can sell them to once you hear how good a modded SR60 sounds.

 

As far as what kind of shape, that's up to you. I cheated the first go round and got a set of cocobolo's from Bill. I just got a chunk of African Blackwood though and am going for a GS1000 look. It's going to be a 2 piece construction replicating the plastic driver housings with African Mahogany.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgsxr View Post

Try PM'ing Bilavideo for cups, he might be able to help you out.

 

As for modded 60/80/125/225/325 etc, I am sure there are differences, but I am willing to step forward and suggest they are minimal.  I own a set of modded 60i's, and I heard back to back vs a modded set of 325i's at a Head Fi meet last month.  I shared mine with the owner of the modded 325's.

 

I loved the look of the 325's (the cocobolo in person is very sweet), but as for SQ, neither of us was thinking there was much difference between our sets.

 

I am still struggling to find the right cheap (under $100) USB DAC to use with my Millet Max Hybrid, and my modded SR60i's.


mc, I possibly should have stayed with an SR60 given how much I know the sound improved on my 60's, but I've got a 225 en route. I'm not sure if the 225 and 60 use different drivers but plastic to plastic I know the 225 bested the 60. So I'm thinking with wood perhaps the 225 stays ahead of the 60 on the SQ curve. What about that gamma thing for a DAC or a used uDAC?

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by patsrule711 View Post

What kind of metal mesh do you guys use? Where did you get it? How did you mold it to look nice and get it to fit/stay in the cups?

 

Thanks


 

Here is what I used to make some grills with:

 

mesh.jpg

 

It's a little mini pen and pencil holder. Same principle as the letter tray...like $3 or $4 at Walmart. Just find something round in your garage or laying around the house to mold it around after you've cut out your circle's. I used a spray can lid. It cuts really easy, scissors do the trick. Now I need a pewter one for my Blackwood cups.
 

post #2781 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post

 

 

That's pretty much what I was thinking when I got my HF2 Jason. One of the discussions that has gone on in here though has been about modding the 325. Some of the same stuff like venting the drivers but the big 325 mod seems to be removing some plastic ring inside the cup. That one seems to be a big hit for those that modded there 325. Personally I cant see paying the extra for the aluminum like you did for the 325 then discarding it for wood. One of the things I think Bill is working on is a wood inner that would house the driver and line the aluminum cup like the HF2. We now know the HF2's cup is lined with wood now that one of the denizens this thread, Schwallman had the audacity to crack open his HF2's. So that may be a way for you to go with your 325. Of course you can sell them to once you hear how good a modded SR60 sounds.

 

As far as what kind of shape, that's up to you. I cheated the first go round and got a set of cocobolo's from Bill. I just got a chunk of African Blackwood though and am going for a GS1000 look. It's going to be a 2 piece construction replicating the plastic driver housings with African Mahogany.

 

 


mc, I possibly should have stayed with an SR60 given how much I know the sound improved on my 60's, but I've got a 225 en route. I'm not sure if the 225 and 60 use different drivers but plastic to plastic I know the 225 bested the 60. So I'm thinking with wood perhaps the 225 stays ahead of the 60 on the SQ curve. What about that gamma thing for a DAC or a used uDAC?

 

 


 

Here is what I used to make some grills with:

 

mesh.jpg

 

It's a little mini pen and pencil holder. Same principle as the letter tray...like $3 or $4 at Walmart. Just find something round in your garage or laying around the house to mold it around after you've cut out your circle's. I used a spray can lid. It cuts really easy, scissors do the trick. Now I need a pewter one for my Blackwood cups.
 


I'm not sure what a denizen is?
post #2782 of 5003
Noun: An inhabitant or occupant of a particular place.  

Ok, I thought thems was fightin words.
post #2783 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by sysfail View Post

I just received my cups from Bill! Are there supposed to be metal grills on them already? Because mine doesn't. frown.gif

 

Originally Posted by schwallman View Post

pretty sure it was just cups he does. I hope mine made the post today.

Originally Posted by mksuen View Post

Yea he just does the shells, I think eclein is the only one that gets cups with screens =P

 

Hope mine made the post as well.

 

Guys and gals, my apologies.  I was in a bit of a hurry to get things shipped.  If you got cups without screens, PM me.  That's not how I roll.  I'll send you the screens right away.  My apologies to anybody who got screwed on screens.  I buy the aluminum mesh specifically for its use as screening material.  You shouldn't have to buy or make screens.


Edited by Bilavideo - 4/4/11 at 6:42pm
post #2784 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by mksuen View Post

HELP!

 

So the switch on my little dot 2+ got stuck last night so I had to open it up and fix the switch. Somehow in the process of doing so the wire soldered to the left input RCA jack broke off. I got some solder and a soldering iron at radioshack and fixed it. However, the left channel now seems like it has weaker signal. Thinking that it could be inferior solder I went and got some 62/36/2 silver solder and redid it. I was unable to get all the old solder off and the problem now still persists despite my liberal use of silver solder to make sure the wire contacted the jack.

 

What do you guys think? Could that little bit of crappy solder create such signal loss? For reference in foobar I have to boost the left channel by about 2 decibels to get it to the same relative loudness as the right, however I feel the the highs are more muffled and everything is less detailed in general.

 

Do I get a new jack? Could it be something else? Help!


I don't think the solder is making such a dramatic difference in your case.  However, some questions:

 

1) Did you buy some of the braided copper to "absorb" the old solder by heating up the connection and using the copper braid to "wick" away the solder?

 

2) Did you remove your tubes before proceeding with the work?

 

3) Did you by chance happen to use a heat sink / clip attached to your connection when you performed the work?  Or, something to absorb the extra heat - as opposed to letting it go beyond the joint and reach a component?

 

I suspect you might consider ordering a new jack to install and hopefully resolve your issue.  Best of luck!

 

 

 

post #2785 of 5003

may i bring up a topic here?

 

i know its been covered in this thread before but its (again) about RS1 vs GS1000 in terms of construction and components.

all of the search results are about sonic differences and whatnot...

 

GS1000 is a wood-aluminum combination or so ive heard, and RS1 is pure wood.

 

i want to explore putting an aluminum or stainless tube inside the woody chamber and hear what happens.

post #2786 of 5003
Thread Starter 

 

Originally Posted by sysfail View Post

Oh ok thanks. Well I'll have to figure out something for that empty spot in the cups. tongue_smile.gif


No, you need to send somebody to my house and beat me to death.  You should have had screens in both cups.  I'll get yours out tomorrow.  My apologies.  I'm clearly not the brightest bulb on the tree.

 

post #2787 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilavideo View Post

 


No, you need to send somebody to my house and beat me to death.  You should have had screens in both cups.  I'll get yours out tomorrow.  My apologies.  I'm clearly not the brightest bulb on the tree.

 


I'll do it! As long as you let me do it on the 15th or 16th. Then I will use being down there as an excuse to go see that Maiden concert... I'll be on a mission, yeah, that's a better reason (excuse really) to be in Florida than "I simply don't want to be here"

And not to be a PITA, but have you got that shipment of mine out yet so I can see that tracking info?
post #2788 of 5003


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by schwallman View Post


I'm not sure what a denizen is?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by schwallman View Post

Noun: An inhabitant or occupant of a particular place.  

Ok, I thought thems was fightin words.



LOL, no not at all. We are all denizens of this amazing thread and it's various nostrums biggrin.gif

 



 

 

post #2789 of 5003

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post


I don't think the solder is making such a dramatic difference in your case.  However, some questions:

 

1) Did you buy some of the braided copper to "absorb" the old solder by heating up the connection and using the copper braid to "wick" away the solder?

 

2) Did you remove your tubes before proceeding with the work?

 

3) Did you by chance happen to use a heat sink / clip attached to your connection when you performed the work?  Or, something to absorb the extra heat - as opposed to letting it go beyond the joint and reach a component?

 

I suspect you might consider ordering a new jack to install and hopefully resolve your issue.  Best of luck!


 

1) I used a solder sucker, the vacuum kind

2) I always remove the tubes when I mess around with it

3) I did not, though I believe I was rather quick with my soldering (hopefully this isn't where I went wrong ><)

post #2790 of 5003
Quote:
Originally Posted by hi-fiber View Post

i want to explore putting an aluminum or stainless tube inside the woody chamber and hear what happens.


 

Why?  I think you'd be much wiser to find a pair of used SR325s and remove the plastic chambers ... leaving the aluminum in place to see how the sound is presented.  If the sound is deplorable, you could then contact Bilavideo to get some wooden liners made for your SR325s to whip 'em back into shape.

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