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A Very Compact Hybrid Amp - Page 37

post #541 of 2213
Quote:
Originally Posted by olblueyez View Post
I see bigger cases are available, that for people wanting rca's and the like?
Yep,

RCAs full stereo jack, ALPS pot..Mine is a bigger case too with the RCAs...

Shipped mine off to Smeggy for a listen/review
post #542 of 2213
Is it possible to squeeze an rk27 in the small case? I'm ok with mini jacks if necessary, but would like to have a high quality pot.
post #543 of 2213
Quote:
Originally Posted by rds View Post
Is it possible to squeeze an rk27 in the small case? I'm ok with mini jacks if necessary, but would like to have a high quality pot.
I think you could..but will have to probably mount it off center, bit higher on the front panel ..or mount it on the top plate...

Chris (cfcubed) of Bill (wiatrob) can give you more insight on this as they have built it with the smaller case.
post #544 of 2213
Quote:
Originally Posted by rds View Post
Is it possible to squeeze an rk27 in the small case? I'm ok with mini jacks if necessary, but would like to have a high quality pot.
I don't think its possible.... I spent some time prior to populating the 1st CTH seeing if I could make it fit to no avail. Didn't consider top panel mounting tho. Still don't think you'd find the nearly 1" cube of space (would only fit over flat resistors/diodes I think).

Although perhaps a compromise, I'm plenty happy w/the BoM pot that supports the major transportability of my 1st CTH.
post #545 of 2213
It would be very challenging to shoehorn an rk-27 win the BoM case. Impossible? There is exactly 25mm from the top of the PCB to the lip of the Hammond. That's the size of an Rk-27. Moving it over a notch, you can flush it up to the case top slot.

This buys you 3-4mm. You'd have to bottom mount the caps underneath it (nd I don't know if C1P will fit under the board) and maybe jam Q1L all the way down to the board, but you might just make enough clearance. Might have to solder IC1 directly to the board (you've got some builds under your belt so you can weigh the risk)

A challenge, but maybe...
post #546 of 2213
For all the effort in squeezing it in, you might as well use the 1600 case, and have lots of room for it.. It was easy for me..
and what if you went to the effort and then it still didnt fit, or you shorted something out..
Rememeber size does count..
post #547 of 2213
My build has the RK27 and RCA's as well, and I'd say go for the longer case. At 3"x6" it's still really compact. The extra length in the case means you will have better airflow for cooling the voltage regulator because you will be able to add some holes underneath the case, allowing for more efficient natural convection. All I have are some holes on the bottom, and one row along the top of the back plate of the amp.

One note for anyone using a longer case though, it does mean the board is not locked in place by the case itself, and can slide back and forth, from front to back. I took care of this problem by adding a standoff between the bottom of the board and the bottom of the case. Adding a standoff also means that the board has extra stability when rolling tubes. There is a hole underneath the tube socket, and I added a 4-40 buttonhead screw there before soldering the socket, and then attached a 4-40 threaded standoff to the underside of the board. I've attached a photo for reference...
LL
post #548 of 2213
There are lots of options.

The standoff under the socket is a good one.

A piece of cardboard in the slot to take up the slack works as well. That's what I did with my Context Engineering case, and that's also what I did with the Alien DAC a couple of years ago.

With the bigger case and a big pot you should be able to shove the board into the pot and use the cardboard as a wedge. Another option is an angle bracket to brace one end of the board as well, and utilizing the cardboard to fill the space to the faceplate on the other end.
post #549 of 2213
All,

the 1.1 rev of the PCB which is on order has 4 standoff holes for securing the PCB. Alex has not posted the image yet.

-Bill
post #550 of 2213
Timjo, I really liked your idea about putting a standoff under the tube socket, but you should have spoken up about it before I had already mounted my socket.. I'm blaming you..

I put a couple of 3/4 inch bolts up through the bottom with a nylon bushing on them to use as board stops. You could even use one as the case Star ground point.
post #551 of 2213
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSlim View Post
Timjo, I really liked your idea about putting a standoff under the tube socket, but you should have spoken up about it before I had already mounted my socket.. I'm blaming you..
Yep. The minute I saw Timjo's socket riser bit I knew how I was mounting the socket on my 2nd CTH... Although I went w/o a standoff to case bottom because of my sacrificial little hammond brackets (pre-V1.1's standoff holes):





There are pics of this 2nd CTH of mine in that 'bay mid case floating around here (earlier in thread, NYC meet impressions) & my PB acct.

> With the bigger case and a big pot you should be able to shove the board into the pot and use the cardboard as a wedge

I used a stick on "case foot" from an assortment on the back of my 1/4" jack front-panel output jack as a PCB bumper in my 2nd CTH. (Edit: It's possible that adhesive-backed case foot could fall off allowing the PCB to move, so better to use something more permanent).
post #552 of 2213
=That's a cool idea.
post #553 of 2213
well I didn't use any kind of board stop in mine..the boarseem to be quite a tight fit and i had to exert considerable pressure to get it to slot it.
I didn't bother with any board stops as it was such a tight fit.

Have carried it everywhere without one and no problems..even shipped it yesterday and I am confident it wouldn't have budged at all.
post #554 of 2213
I may have to put my CTH build plans on hold for a little while.
post #555 of 2213
Quote:
Originally Posted by smeggy View Post
I may have to put my CTH build plans on hold for a little while.
Oh no, you didn't lose another fingertip, did you?
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