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The Apple diyMod: My Take on the Famous iMod [56k killer] Featuring 3G, 4G, 5G and nano 1G! - Page 186

post #2776 of 2998

If anyone is looking for a protective skin for the iPod 5G, I'd highly suggest getting a Best Skins Ever shield.

 

http://www.bestskinsever.com/media-players/apple/5g-video-ipod-total-body-skin?mode=list&

 

It's much cheaper than the Zagg skin, and the only difference is that it doesn't come with the soapy water spray, but you can just mix that yourself (I always do).  I've used BSE's quite often, and I'm always very happy with the way they work.

post #2777 of 2998
Dang, I'm king to have to remember that skin. Gotta book mark the link. I've had a Zagg on my 5.5G for years and just bought another a couple weeks ago since I ordered a clear new iVue front plate. I'll keep that link handy for future iPod biggrin.gif

Sent from my DROID RAZR/JB CM 10.2 via Tapatalk II now Free
post #2778 of 2998

Hey guys! Thanks for the great help posted on this thread! This is my first post on Head-Fi, and I apologize if this has been discussed elsewhere, but here it goes.

 

Today I finished DIYmodding an iPod 5g. I put 6.3v 47uF Elna Silmic II caps inside (with the positive lead running to the DAC) with the help of Tarkan's CF adapter, and ran silver wire from the pads to the dock pins. 

 

After closing it shut, I tested it with a multimeter and was shocked to discover the DC offset reading .5 volts on both channels! While not identical, L and R were consistently high and the measurement seemed to spike to 1.1 volts when the + and - probes first made their connections. The AC voltage measurement moves to the music so at least it appears to somewhat work, and the headphone out still reads 0 mV. 

 

I don't want to risk plugging it into any amp, at least not until it's down to safe levels. Could it be that the caps are charging up somehow? Maybe putting in resistors to ground would help? What do you guys think I should do? 

 

Have a nice day!

Pentagonal 

 

EDIT: Here is a picture of inside - https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9k3yfcn2vlpTm5LblRiZzRZMms/edit?usp=sharing 

And here's a microscope close up of the pads - https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9k3yfcn2vlpVnhlY0V4d0FzaXc/edit?usp=sharing


Edited by Pentagonal - 10/4/13 at 6:33pm
post #2779 of 2998

Are your caps in the correct polarity? That might be the problem. Also I've had problems trying to fight the 2.2uf Kermets into a slim back. Any advice to get them into the correct position? I got the flat rectangular ones.

post #2780 of 2998

If you are using Tarkan's adapter, consider trimming off the area above the CF card and sliding the unit up (you can use double sided tape to keep it still afterwards). That would open up a good amount of space below, more than enough for the Silmics and maybe enough for the Kemets. Out of curiosity, how do they match up with the depth of the slim back? 

 

I found the reason behind the dc offset problem - it turns out that the metal top of the left channel Silmic was touching the metal frame. When it's receiving a 1.5v charge (I used an AA battery), the top lets out around .6v! This raised the ground potential of the iPod to .6v for everything, not just the audio out. Unfortunately I found out too late and the logic board stopped working. 

 

Maybe now I'll order a new logic board and some Kemets :P


Edited by Pentagonal - 10/5/13 at 10:42pm
post #2781 of 2998
Quote:
Originally Posted by Athur126 View Post
 

Are your caps in the correct polarity? That might be the problem. Also I've had problems trying to fight the 2.2uf Kermets into a slim back. Any advice to get them into the correct position? I got the flat rectangular ones.

 

I never tried to fit any caps in a slim back. All my pods are or are converted with the thick back giving the max space for more cap options. With the thick back, I believe you can go as thick as 8mm caps.

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pentagonal View Post
 

Hey guys! Thanks for the great help posted on this thread! This is my first post on Head-Fi, and I apologize if this has been discussed elsewhere, but here it goes.

 

Today I finished DIYmodding an iPod 5g. I put 6.3v 47uF Elna Silmic II caps inside (with the positive lead running to the DAC) with the help of Tarkan's CF adapter, and ran silver wire from the pads to the dock pins. 

 

After closing it shut, I tested it with a multimeter and was shocked to discover the DC offset reading .5 volts on both channels! While not identical, L and R were consistently high and the measurement seemed to spike to 1.1 volts when the + and - probes first made their connections. The AC voltage measurement moves to the music so at least it appears to somewhat work, and the headphone out still reads 0 mV. 

 

I don't want to risk plugging it into any amp, at least not until it's down to safe levels. Could it be that the caps are charging up somehow? Maybe putting in resistors to ground would help? What do you guys think I should do? 

 

Have a nice day!

Pentagonal 

 

EDIT: Here is a picture of inside - https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9k3yfcn2vlpTm5LblRiZzRZMms/edit?usp=sharing 

And here's a microscope close up of the pads - https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9k3yfcn2vlpVnhlY0V4d0FzaXc/edit?usp=sharing

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pentagonal View Post
 

If you are using Tarkan's adapter, consider trimming off the area above the CF card and sliding the unit up (you can use double sided tape to keep it still afterwards). That would open up a good amount of space below, more than enough for the Silmics and maybe enough for the Kemets. Out of curiosity, how do they match up with the depth of the slim back? 

 

I found the reason behind the dc offset problem - it turns out that the metal top of the left channel Silmic was touching the metal frame. When it's receiving a 1.5v charge (I used an AA battery), the top lets out around .6v! This raised the ground potential of the iPod to .6v for everything, not just the audio out. Unfortunately I found out too late and the logic board stopped working. 

 

Maybe now I'll order a new logic board and some Kemets :P

 

Man sorry to hear that on the board. However, from my firsthand experience I believe the “harm” normally considered from the dc offset is probably exaggerated.  I have tried many caps from 4.7uf to 3f. What I have found is the 4.7uf film caps have presented no dc offsets. The high-capacitance caps, the ones I have tried, have showed wild swing of fluctuating dc offsets ranging from 1.2 volts to zero depending on when it is measured. Have I plugged the pods to my amp with the 1.2 volts of dc offset input? You bet, of course I have checked with the amp maker before I did. No harm to either amp or iem’s, no distortion to the sound neither (to my ears). In fact and unfortunately, these caps with the dc offsets happen to be my favorite caps and I now listen to dc-offseted music every day and can’t be any more happier.

 

Personally, I am no longer concerned about any dc offset up to 1.2 volts as these caps have been tested long enough myself. Now I know guys believe science and so do I, but I keep open minded when it comes to diy and sound. I let my ears to be the judge. I am blessed with the opportunity to check this out myself thanks to diy.

 

With that said, try at your own risk and better check with your amp maker if there are dc offsets. I can only speak for my own gears.

post #2782 of 2998

Guys if you have not tried diy a LOD like this, then you need to try one.

 

Make a LOD using four different types of wires (one each for L and R, two for grounds). What I am telling you is the L & R wires don't have to be the same. :wink_face:  I do recommend the two channel wires are made of one silver/gold and one pure silver.

post #2783 of 2998

Mundorf silver/gold + Wima 47uF 0.47uF 5% (some epoxy to fix)


Edited by FARfromHOME - 11/8/13 at 1:28pm
post #2784 of 2998

finished "product"

 

 

 

post #2785 of 2998

What benefit do you get from mixing wires?

 

 

post #2786 of 2998

I'll make one with 22uF 5% next. Sounds better imo.


Edited by FARfromHOME - 10/10/13 at 2:52pm
post #2787 of 2998

I would suggest having a heat shrink tube (the 3:1 ratio dual walls) for the LOD where the wires are coming out of the dock. Nice work tho with that tight space.

 

Personally I have not put any caps in the docks for my lod's as all my caps have been placed inside the ipods with the thick plates. Reason being more spaces for cap options, also I could easily replace the caps if needed.

 

On the lod with all different wires, it's worth the try for a different sound. You ears/brain won't be able to tell the imbalanced L/R wires but the overall sound difference could be discernible.

post #2788 of 2998

I think I got a little crazy about the LOD's. Here is my 1st diy LOD using the Mundorf silver/gold wires. Since then I have made five more LOD's with quality wires bought from all different sources. I have also tried all kinds of plugs and like to try the new ones. The most difficult plug to work with is the Pailiccs (the original version), but it looks really nice and compact. These are the plugs I have tried so far:

 

Viablue (overall the best)

Switchcraft (heavy-duty with solid built)

Neutrik (good and inexpensive)

Pailiccs (hard to work with but a sexy spinner)

Valab Rhodium Plated (nice carbon fiber housing but looks husky)

 

post #2789 of 2998

 

There is heat shrink tube.

It's clear. 

I'll use macro lens next time to get better image...

The reason I put caps outside is: nothing beats pure flow from dac (direct out). I have portable recorders witch allow me to adjust input signal.

post #2790 of 2998

Haha I missed that clear tube. Sorry about that.

 

Not sure if any difference between caps in and out of ipod. The real pure flow (to amp) should be no caps at all. Next time I will try one without caps, and if the measured dc offset is around 1.2 volts I won't hesitate to plug it into my amp for a test drive.

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