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As already stated, that's a matter of opinion.
I've heard a number of cheap DACs, and also the DAC1. Didn't like the DAC1 at all, and much prefered a number of cheaper DACs.

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Black Gates are pretty hard to find and their selection is quite limited. I was also looking into Nichicon Muse and the more widespread Panasonic FS series but still can't seem to find the exact specified values. I'm new at this and was wondering if the cap's voltage rating needs to be exactly as specified. Would a higher voltage rating be overkill but work just as well (eg. replace the specified 22uF 16V by a 22uF 25 or 50V) or would it screw up the sound(or worse)?
Why would you settle for general purpose caps when audio grade caps cost only a few cents more?

I'm purchasing this unit soon, thanks for the review... re-enforced my confidence in making the decision =)

Try for some Panasonic 22uF electrolytics and a couple of bigger polyester audio grade caps for the 3.3nF.

That might be optimal as per Herandu.

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I'll try to remember to do that when all's said and done.

Hey gang. I've been following this thread for a while, as I ordered a TC-7510 mk6 a few weeks ago and have been anxiously awaiting its arrival and a verdict on the performance of this DAC. My plan was to replace my Cambridge Audio 640C (v1) with the Beresford, hoping that it would have better performance for my CD playback, that I'd be able to improve the sound of my computer audio as well, and finally that I could pocket a few dollars in the process.

Today was my first day with it, and after about 10 hours of break-in, I'm sad to say, it doesn't outperform the 640C. The two are quite close, and I'd say the difference is fairly subtle, but after several hours of auditioning, I'm quite certain that I have ascertained a difference, and it's simply not as good. Tonally, it's a smidge brighter than the Cambridge, which is already possibly a bit brighter than absolute neutrality. Detail-wise, it's a bit gritty in the highs - less smooth, and lacking the resolution and naturalness of the 640C. This difference is clear when you quickly A/B the two, but I'm fairly sure it would be noticeable in the long run without the A/B'ing as well. I feel that this lack results in the performance being less smooth, comforting and absorbing as it should be. I didn't notice any detail differences in the rest of the spectrum though. On the plus side, the soundstage and separation may be just a smidge better on the TC-7510 than the 640C.

I'm realllly hoping this shortfall goes away with another several dozen hours of burn-in, but I'm not entirely optimistic. However, even failing to bridge that gap, I still may consider keeping the DAC and selling the Cambridge. If the TC-7510 can come close enough where I feel the differences would only be noticeable with a quick A/B comparison, and too subtle to be a bother on their own, I just may keep it anyways. I really want better audio for my computer and the flexibility of a DAC, and I could really use every extra dollar in my pocket that's possible. No, I'm not an audio weenie - I have very high standards; I'm just a poor student.

I'll update in a few days, gang. Rock on...

10 hours testing is nothing. Ten days more like it depending on how revealing your system is and the type of music selection you have.
I don't consider the voltage value of the capacitors in the modification to be critical. I have used 25V on my MK3 and 16V on my MK6 for the electrolytics. I bought some Metallised Polyester to try instead of the resin-dipped ceramic ones in the mod sheet.

Herandu, I am keenly interested in your cap swapping results. I'll be doing the mod as well, but have no idea what caps or resistors to select.

The 7510 certainly does smooth out after 100hrs at least. The mod should improve the grain and resolution so don't panic. We'll see though.

What about the 13.5v PS upgrade - how much of an(audible) improvement is that compared to the caps mod?

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Well here comes the shock:
My MK3 with the mod and 13.5V power supply outperforms the MK6 with the same mod.
The MK6 doesn't respond to the 13.5V power supply in the same way that the mK3 does.
The MK6 sounds better than the MK3 with the standard 12V adapter.
MK3 with 13.5V and no mod is about evens with the unmodded MK6.

I have a Mark IV. I can get a 13.8V linear PS for $60CAD. Would you say the upgrade is worth the money or not?

$60? no way. Spend the $$ on the mod instead. Much more cost effective it would seem.

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The parts for the mod cost pennies. With my limited desoldering/soldering skills replacing them will be the tricky part.

Send it to Stanley or see if a headfier will do it for you. Same price or close I would think.

How the heck is the MK3 better than the MK6? Try and explain that a bit more please.