geom_tol: "Cosmetically you could replace those phillips screws with some stainless (or just black oxide) socket head screws, that would make it look even better IMO. " ---Wow, we are on exactly the same wavelength! I have some black oxide hex-head countersink screws to try, as well as some aluminum phillips-head countersink screws. The screws that come with this box are so cheesy in construction... quite a contrast to the otherwise nice quality of the box.
"And if there's any way you can make your powersupply dual you may want to do that since you can then eliminate the virtual ground driver circuit." ---Hehe, yes, I did make one earlier, which I'll use in another amp. I already had the onboard components on the META, as I was not sure if I was going to make it battery or AC powered. I figured it's just another degree of isolation at this point. The dual supply I made has four 1000uF caps, with a pair of tantalums at the end, as well as a slightly beefier transformer. It also has trimmer pots at the adjust pins of the 317/337 regs.
eric343: thanks for the advice
, Tangent suggested the same after seeing my cmoy. I might consider that after the holidays. Work is nuts right now. As for the bezel- I reversed it on purpose, as the AC inlet is almost flush with the top of the rear panel (d'oh!), and you could see it from the front with the bezel the original way. This orientation provides a slight recessed look, helping hide the edge of the inlet. Next time, I will mount the inlet lower.
One thing the front picture doesn't show that well is the alignment of the jack/switch/knob. They are not on a straight line, the switch and jack are about 1/8" lower than the centerline of the volume knob. For what it's worth. Also, that is the 2"x4"x4" approx case, so I'm pleased to have jammed a linear reg. PSU in there. The META caps, BTW, are 1000uF 25v Panasonic, IIRC. I'll check tonight. Overkill, perhaps, especially with the line powered option vs. battery. They are 12.5mm x 35mm.
Thanks for all the kind remarks, guys.