The Quality of DIY..
Jun 30, 2005 at 12:15 AM Post #46 of 60
Quote:

Originally Posted by RnB180
nope not true for me at all, however, The original poster of the topic that is indeed NEW to DIY may incur the problems I listed prior. Mini cables especially require skill to terminate, since the solder contacts are so small and the connectors themselves have a very small temperature threshold, too hot and you can create intermittence as the ring can deviate from its position from the heat.


Get a nice soldering stationa and all problems are gone of overheating anything.
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Jun 30, 2005 at 12:17 AM Post #47 of 60
Ill probably pick up the weller station at frys some day.

Im in no rush however, my 25 wat rat shack iron is ideal for my work. I have a dual wattage 20/40 iron for heavy rca connectors, and heatsinks for my rca and mini connectors.
 
Jun 30, 2005 at 12:22 AM Post #48 of 60
Quote:

Originally Posted by RnB180
Ill probably pick up the weller station at frys some day.

Im in no rush however, my 25 wat rat shack iron is ideal for my work. I have a dual wattage 20/40 iron for heavy rca connectors, and heatsinks for my rca and mini connectors.


25 is a bit high. 12-14 is more ideal soldering channel connections (non ground). I will probably do a writeup today of a soldering iron mod to be able to control temp atleast some.

-Alex-
 
Jun 30, 2005 at 2:29 AM Post #51 of 60
yea 12 watt would be too low for me.

my 20 watt iron is not hot enough, it requires a longer time to wet the joints.

The 25 watt iron is perfect for me, in and out in 1-2 seconds with a perfect wet joint.
 
Jun 30, 2005 at 2:36 AM Post #52 of 60
Quote:

Originally Posted by RnB180
yea 12 watt would be too low for me.

my 20 watt iron is not hot enough, it requires a longer time to wet the joints.

The 25 watt iron is perfect for me, in and out in 1-2 seconds with a perfect wet joint.


so 20 is too low, and 40 is just over kill?
 
Jun 30, 2005 at 3:30 AM Post #53 of 60
Quote:

Originally Posted by RnB180
yea 12 watt would be too low for me.

my 20 watt iron is not hot enough, it requires a longer time to wet the joints.

The 25 watt iron is perfect for me, in and out in 1-2 seconds with a perfect wet joint.


If 12 watt is too low then you need to let the soldering iron warm up more. I tried with a 12 and 14 watt and it was perfect. Granted I don't use it mostly because of the station I have.

-Alex-
 
Jun 30, 2005 at 5:22 AM Post #54 of 60
well a 12 watt might work, but Im fine with what im using, in and out, wets joint instantly. Its worked fine the last 50 connectors, so I think Im doin ok
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Jun 30, 2005 at 6:09 AM Post #55 of 60
im not saying the benefits of teflon coated hook up wire doesnt exist. im saying it's not providing those benefits in a major way with audio cable.

if i was wiring an aircraft then i'd use it. if i was wiring up a sound rig that was going to be placed under the stress of heat and fire then i wouldn't be braiding wire i bought off ebay.
 
Jun 30, 2005 at 6:27 AM Post #56 of 60
Different strokes for different folks,
when it comes down to it, one wire is still better
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FInding contentment in a wire with poorer properties, is fine,
but using wire with better properties, does not make it a bad choice
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when it comes down to it, teflon is still a superior insulator for ANY purpose over PVC. and doesnt cost much more then the typical canare or megomi cable.


now sky skraper, please tell me, What is the NEGATIVE aspect of using a teflon cable over PVC cable on my system?

im going to bed, bye bye
 
Jun 30, 2005 at 6:55 AM Post #57 of 60
I think the point he was trying to make is that PVC is perfectly suitable for interconnect construction and teflon isn't necessarily worth the money, despite being a better dielectric on paper, because the benefits are not exactly tangible (melting point aside). That said, is the disparity in price really that significant for PVC insulated wire as compared to teflon insulated wire? Last I checked teflon coated silver plated copper wire was pretty cheap on ebay. If I had a complaint about teflon, it would only be that it's slippery and makes braiding a pain in the ass, and it's a bit stiff compared to PVC. The higher melting point is a plus though, and may be worth the extra buck or two when you order wire. But in the end it really doesn't make a palpable difference and certainly not an audible one.
 
Jun 30, 2005 at 7:04 AM Post #58 of 60
thats very true, pvc is good for audio, my speakers use pvc.

if I had a choice though Id choose the latter, only because its a better material to use. Nothing wrong with pvc for audio, but its not the best either.

copper is good, but not as good of a conductor as silver. same difference.

you see negligiable difference, I see potential difference.
we're just looking at the same thing from opposite persoectives.

Sorry im a bit passionate about DIY, Ive made and used almost every type of conductor, geometry and connector type out there. (except carbon conductors), and Ive found my favorite sounding wire. end of my story
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Jun 30, 2005 at 8:38 AM Post #59 of 60
Quote:

Originally Posted by JWFokker
I think the point he was trying to make is that PVC is perfectly suitable for interconnect construction and teflon isn't necessarily worth the money, despite being a better dielectric on paper, because the benefits are not exactly tangible (melting point aside). That said, is the disparity in price really that significant for PVC insulated wire as compared to teflon insulated wire? Last I checked teflon coated silver plated copper wire was pretty cheap on ebay. If I had a complaint about teflon, it would only be that it's slippery and makes braiding a pain in the ass, and it's a bit stiff compared to PVC. The higher melting point is a plus though, and may be worth the extra buck or two when you order wire. But in the end it really doesn't make a palpable difference and certainly not an audible one.


Yeah, that's basically what I'm saying. Although silver plated teflon is cheap on eBay, you can get twice as much of the same guage of PVC and copper for half to three quarters the price. Infact, you can get four times as much if you're getting hookup/zip wire since it's a pair.

All Electronics has a nice selection of wire last time I looked, at super cheap prices with $6 flat rate shipping. They have auto grade "zip" wire (it's just the paired wire that you can "zip" apart), which probably uses the same grade copper as anything else (especially since some automotive applications can carry high currents) but may have irradiated PVC insulation or something else ment to withstand higher temperatures that can occur under the hood. I imagine the copper is of good quality, it's not hard to make pure copper these days. Every wire manufacturer and their uncle can do it for very cheap.
 
Jun 30, 2005 at 8:49 AM Post #60 of 60
i don't believe there's anything negative about using it. i just dont agree with the merits that a lot of people purport about this cabling and that cabling. this connector and that connector in terms of sound.
 
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