Orthodynamic Roundup

nick n said:

 

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Does one side of the ring need to be placed vs the other nonconductive side? No idea.
 
There is this of interest.
http://www.head-fi.org/t/797177/amfiton-tds16-echo-transplant-into-audiotechnica-ath-ad500
He is referencing the larger versions by the way.
Can't expect any low end as stated in the video, with the pads like that. I guess mine here sound just ok. Wikiphonia has some impressions on the larger bodied ones ( known as KIEV ) I think Sergei mentioned that TDS-16 KIEV version is nothing all that great or standout. Too bad.

 
On the smaller SMELA versions I am quickly retweaking a set for someone not frequenting this thread, according to what i nailed down with my old ones.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

thought I would throw up the semi-ok pictures I took since I lost my last info with those.
 
On the following the final coup de grace tweak is of course Sorbothane.
If you are not using it yet you are not maximizing your headphones' potential. In most cases.
In comparison, quite simply the level of Sorbothane's effects makes Dynamat's effects seem like a complete unnoticeable joke.
 
Somebody else in here is currently noticing the Sorb fun but I will let them comment if they want.
 
" Smela " TDS-16 Sorbothane Mod Basics: ( Actually this black badge version I believe is also made in Kiev like the larger ones, but ignore that  since that is only information for geeks )

1. Twaron Angelhair in rears = 0.02 grams
2. Arctic Cotton disc on rear of drivers slit to slide under center contact tabs, fuzzy side to driver ( removed stock rear black fabric dustguard )
3. 4 @ 5mm x 23 mm strips Sorbothane ( 1/10 inch 30D ) rear cups
4. 2 @5mm x 26mm Sorbothane strips ( 1/10 inch 30D ) on driver edges split into 3 sections if necessary, total amount is what matters try to duplicate sides
5. 4 small Dynamat squares per side to hold driver tight to baffle
6. Aftermarket 65mm pads that have near identical inner opening and height profile to stock
7. Buffalo leather headband strap ( replacement of hard as rock vinyl one ) double layered but left one single layer at screw point or it will crack the plastic plates.

^ this set has the really cool looking textured chromed metal band!!! Only one I have seen like that out of oh, I dunno... let's say a lot! LOVE IT

^ Arctic Cotton  slit to fit around tab

^ 0.02 grams Angel Hair

^ Sorb strips placement rear cups at 4 spots

^ Sorb strips placed around driver edges  in this case the total length is split into 3 spots avoiding screwposts
 
 
*********** For future reference if anyone gets a set of the smaller SMELA versions, and has the set with 3 clear wires and one red / or even loose drivers... the center pin of the driver is the positive +++++
 

 
*Ideally with some orthos as much sorb as can be fit, but obvious space limitations here.

 

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Holy smokes - those are mine! I knew you were going to do a bit of tweaking lol. That's totally awesome Nick!

Currently recabling in progress for the TDS-16 with 26 AWG 30 strand Mil-spec copper and Paracord sheathing, the stock cable is not that great.
I do hear a difference for the better with my original one that used some massive Soviet copper interconnect cabling. That was the way the first set came to me when I got them years ago.
So this should come close to that improvement if not eclipse it.
Stock stuff is too old.
 
Kind of fun, now though I'll need to do a pile of things sadly. At least this experiment  let me figure the technique out for good ( only my second attempt ).
Lightly twisted, then 2 channel light twists run parallel ( periodic shrinkwrap ) along the main part instead of mangling the 2 channels together.
Less crosstalk? I dunno whatever floats your boat.
Feels right that way IMO.
Glad it doesn't look like a macrame 60's plant hanger like other stuff I have seen. Not my style honestly

I was thinking of making a 3.5mm jack at the bottom of my set so i can attach whatever cables I want to it and to make the cans a bit easier to store. But they sit in my tiny music studio anyway so it is not a big deal so far. I do recall the stock cable being of poor quality on my headphones. The Soviets do have tons of copper to go around though, haha.

yah, recable the hell outta Smela already
 

nick n said:

  Currently recabling in progress for the TDS-16 with 26 AWG 30 strand Mil-spec copper and Paracord sheathing, the stock cable is not that great.
I do hear a difference for the better with my original one that used some massive Soviet copper interconnect cabling. That was the way the first set came to me when I got them years ago.
So this should come close to that improvement if not eclipse it.
Stock stuff is too old.
 
Kind of fun, now though I'll need to do a pile of things sadly. At least this experiment  let me figure the technique out for good ( only my second attempt ).
Lightly twisted, then 2 channel light twists run parallel ( periodic shrinkwrap ) along the instead of mangling the 2 channels together.
Less crosstalk? I dunno whatever floats your boat.
Feels right that way IMO.
Glad it doesn't look like a macrame 60's plant hanger like other stuff I have seen. Not my style honestly
 

Click to expand...

Without turning this into the SS forum. A mild twist is fine. The really important part of twisted cable is the consistency of the twist itself. That tightly wound and braided flemish twist type cable is just a problem waiting to happen. Impedance and capacitance are functions of the conductors proximity to each other and the material and integrity of the insulator. Tightly twisting or braiding them makes it incredibly hard to maintain consistency in both features and can create more trouble than the twist is supposed to eliminate.

OK First off. A trillion thanks to Nick for the Smela mod. They work a treat to really give a great phone a much clearer presentation.
 
Tinkering with it (or messing with it ) has brought two things to light.
 
One.  If you extend the Sorbothane in the outer channel right to the very edge of the yoke holes, when you reassemble the phones the Plastic oval ferrule on the yoke pins will seat on the Sorbothane and the result is the heavenly elimination of ALL the mechanical noises encountered from the headband and cabling. No more creaks and squeaks.
 
Two. Get pads with a 30 mm inner opening rather than the stock 25.  From clear and present sound to singing openess is the result I am experiencing. There is a lot that driver is doing that the stock pads are occluding by covering that last 5mm.

^ Most welcome!
 I need to give the pads opening a whirl when able to do so. I'm using aftermarket that are close I think, let's see now ( measuring here in "realtime" )
: hmm these sit about 27mm. Will look for 30 or 32.
 
Also as I mentioned pretty sure these two sets have the sorb on at least one side hinge ( but side profile on edges of driver), kinda don't want to reopen them but might to check.
Dammit guess I have to now

Yessir. Same noticeable effects there, while adjusting headband strap, swiveling cups and hitting rears it all sounds like a dull thud instead of lighter sound, all over. Same sound on headband as what the sorbed cups sound like ...
Great findings glad you discovered that.
 
Get on replacing that strap!

Reluctant to replace the strap. In case I get mugged it would make a gread defense weapon. Edges on that thing rival a Katana.
 
I wonder how many other phones would benefit from Sorbo at the cup junctures?

Probably lots considering much of it is plastic. Bedding the hinge seems the way to go if it can be managed.
Definitely an underlooked issue, have heard of a few dealing with that before.
Can't recall which but not many.
But why would someone expect that when *only* paying 3 or 4 hundred dollars or so. That's only for the true high end stuff, wait they don't really do much there either.
 
Replace it then use velcro to attach the old one over top for a quick release self-defense mod.

nick n said:

  Probably lots considering much of it is plastic. Bedding the hinge seems the way to go if it can be managed.
Definitely an underlooked issue, have heard of a few dealing with that before.
Can't recall which but not many.
But why would someone expect that when *only* paying 3 or 4 hundred dollars or so. That's only for the true high end stuff, wait they don't really do much there either.
 
Replace it then use velcro to attach the old one over top for a quick release self-defense mod.

Click to expand...

I am just wondering what it can do for cable entries on some problem phones.

nick n said:

 
Somebody else in here is currently noticing the Sorb fun but I will let them comment if they want.

Click to expand...

Ok... I'll break my silence.
 
I wanted to wait a bit longer until I get a more clear idea and understanding of sorbothane, it's application and benefits, but it's too good to hold back any longer.
It seems even the most arbitrary attempts at mechanical damping with this material make real differences.
Carefully thought out application seems to make a world of difference in some headphones with particularly poor mechanical enclosures. 
 
I've sorbed up almost all my vintage orthos with positive results in almost all of them.
The most obvious change in sound is most easily described as 'openness'. You begin to lose a sense of the headphone shape, size, enclosure, and just hear the drivers.
The sound just seems clearer, tighter and less congested.
 
I'm still learning how to apply it properly, but with nick's mentoring I've had a few jaw-dropping moments and my personal 'vintage ortho rankings' have been shuffling A LOT over the past few months due to gradually working headphone by headphone with this stuff, with some real surprises.
 
In the near future I will have two near identical orthos to compare with and without sorbothane, hopefully I'll be able to more clearly understand the differences and proper application.

Mentoring..no way. I'm good for nothing!
Glad you are having noticeable results.
Keep on going .
 
The main thread on the stuff seems to have established a few key things over the course of various member's trials, but also there are areas yet to explore like Hutnicks and the hinge mod. ( sounds like the title of a kids book ) and yet to be trialed cable entry areas where needed.
Also much of it is up to personal preference,  and various configuration trials so only a few guidelines set so far. Each item seems particular.
 
If you can manage to add in the Angelhair to any decent degree it sure makes for a great combo.
There is one that I dragged out yesterday that I forgot what an amazing difference it makes.
I find bass most often seems to extend a bit lower, but maybe that is due to the clarity?
The clarity also is not a bump up in etchy sound, but seems more like exposure(?) and transparency I guess you could say.
 
I did manage to find some Smela compatible pads that have an even larger opening than the 30.
A set of black decent looking ( and cheap ) 65mm outer diameter pads with 35mm openings. Going to be interesting.
 
Racking my brain to recall what ones might benefit from the hinge treatment here.
 
There is a new modding material I will try out soon I hope. Saw it at an art store today but seems Michael's Craft Stores may carry it also.
Golden Gel Mediums Coarse Pumice Gel.
Granular finish on the surface after it cures with a semi flexible acrylic base and embedded pumice granules ( various grades available ), no real safety issues, and is looking good ( I hope ) for an easy mass loading and/or inner cup wall treatment and/or vibe control since when dried like what I saw on the cool sample it has a very large surface area of pumice grit exposed.
Might be good, or might not be.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM-bkNOLPfU
Decently priced so I was not going to pass it up.

Looking at the recable that Nick is doing. Reminds me that I've got a bunch of orthos (and an AKG340) that all need a recable job.
Looking for a good source for replacement cables. Any suggestions out there?