Quote:

takato14 said:

Are electrets allowed? 

 

Click to expand...

That's some thin ice you're standing on 

takato14 said:

Got an ATH-6 a few days ago. It's on its way to me.

Doesn't have the energizer but I got it for absolutely dirt cheap ($18) and its in decent shape. Anyone have any experience with it? Maybe have a spare energizer or stat amp they'd be willing to sell?

Click to expand...

I have the ATH-7, one of my favorite phones. If I recall correctly, the ATH-6 and ATH-7 headsets are identical, and the difference is in the quality of the transformer unit.

Those units have an idiosyncratic oversized DIN-like plug (or maybe like a Stax Pro plug with a pin missing and a locking tab)... not sure how easily they'll adapt to stat energizers, or even if they're electrically compatible.

There are a couple threads in the head-fi archives about Audio-Technica electrets, but they haven't been popular enough for a community of hobbyist hackers/reverse engineers to form.

Quote:

ardgedee said:

Quote:

takato14 said:

Got an ATH-6 a few days ago. It's on its way to me.

Doesn't have the energizer but I got it for absolutely dirt cheap ($18) and its in decent shape. Anyone have any experience with it? Maybe have a spare energizer or stat amp they'd be willing to sell?

Click to expand...

I have the ATH-7, one of my favorite phones. If I recall correctly, the ATH-6 and ATH-7 headsets are identical, and the difference is in the quality of the transformer unit.

Those units have an idiosyncratic oversized DIN-like plug (or maybe like a Stax Pro plug with a pin missing and a locking tab)... not sure how easily they'll adapt to stat energizers, or even if they're electrically compatible.

There are a couple threads in the head-fi archives about Audio-Technica electrets, but they haven't been popular enough for a community of hobbyist hackers/reverse engineers to form.

Click to expand...

Yeah the AHT-6 and 7 are identical. 
 
I was planning on rewiring the headphones with a Stax plug, and actually since the bias voltage is built into the electret transducers any electrostatic energizer should work.

Quote:

takato14 said:

Yeah the AHT-6 and 7 are identical. 
 
I was planning on rewiring the headphones with a Stax plug, and actually since the bias voltage is built into the electret transducers any electrostatic energizer should work.

Click to expand...

Im selling a ATH-7 with energizer, boxed and in good condition. Maybe not exactly what you were looking for, but check my signature.

I'll push the envelope some more... it's still a planar transducer 
 
Here's my modded Pioneer SE-500, One of the three piezoelectric headphones Pioneer made back in the 70's. 
 

 
What I did was open up the cups and convert them to closed back by striping electrical tape along the inside of the earcup. 
 

 
Additionally, I added little pads of velcro on the yokes to hold the cups in place. This prevents them from "winging out" when you put them on, which was preventing proper fit and looked pretty damn stupid on your head. 
 

 
In stock form, these headphones are downright terrible, incredibly muddy low end and no highs at all. Ruler-flat presentation and uninteresting. The modifications I performed get rid of ALL the bass bloom and bring the treble forward a lot. It becomes bright, but a completely different bright than anything I've ever heard. It sounds lush, sparkly, and incredibly musical. I'd almost call it a cool, wet sound. The drivers are capable of a great amount of detail and the mods really bring it forward. The imaging is wonderfully precise and there's even a bit of soundstage presence on these even though there's less than 1/8" between the back of the driver and the earcup.
 
Probably the most incredible transformation I've ever heard from a headphone. If anyone who owns this headphone found it underwhelming... do the closed back mod. It's a completely different headphone.

takato14 said:

I'll push the envelope some more... it's still a planar transducer 

Here's my modded Pioneer SE-500, One of the three piezoelectric headphones Pioneer made back in the 70's. 




What I did was open up the cups and convert them to closed back by striping electrical tape along the inside of the earcup. 




Additionally, I added little pads of velcro on the yokes to hold the cups in place. This prevents them from "winging out" when you put them on, which was preventing proper fit and looked pretty damn stupid on your head. 




In stock form, these headphones are downright terrible, incredibly muddy low end and no highs at all. Ruler-flat presentation and uninteresting. The modifications I performed get rid of ALL the bass bloom and brings the treble forward a lot. It becomes bright, but a completely different bright than anything I've ever heard. It sounds lush, sparkly, and incredibly musical. I'd almost call it a cool, wet sound. The drivers are capable of a great amount of detail and the mods really bring it forward. The imaging is wonderfully precise and there's even a bit of soundstage presence on these even though there's less than 1/8" between the back of the driver and the earcup.

Probably the most incredible transformation I've ever heard from a headphone. If anyone who owns this headphone found it underwhelming... do the closed back mod. It's a completely different headphone.

Click to expand...

I've got the 500 and agree with your impressions. I'll give it a try. Also have a 700 that's a little better but still Meh.

Quote:

bluemonkeyflyer said:

I've got the 500 and agree with your impressions. I'll give it a try. Also have a 700 that's a little better but still Meh.

Click to expand...

The SE-700 improves in the same way as the SE-500 when converted to closed back, but the end result is less trebley and more balanced. It also has a slightly different presentation than the 500 and is a little bit less detailed as well, but that would likely improve with better amping (which I can't provide at the moment).
 
However, the modification is a bit more complex as you have to take off the inner rings and meshes to put the tape on; putting it on the inside mucks things up for some reason. Be careful if you want to try it on the 700, and be sure to have some superglue handy. Once those inner rings come off they really do not seem to like staying in place anymore.

takato14 said:

The SE-700 improves in the same way as the SE-500 when converted to closed back, but the end result is less trebley and more balanced. It's a little bit less detailed as well but that would likely improve with better amping (which I can't provide at the moment).

However, the modification is a bit more complex as you have to take off the inner rings and meshes to put the tape on; putting it on the inside mucks things up for some reason. Be careful if you want to try it on the 700, and be sure to have some superglue handy...

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips. I'll probably do the 500 first since it's easier, and see how it sounds.

Planning a TDS-15 transplant in a Takstar HI-2050 foster fone. The TDS headband is broken so might as well give it a go. Any advice is appreciated.

did either of you try running them directly off speaker taps? If I recall correctly that is a possibility for giving them what they need, but I may be wrong

nick n said:

did either of you try running them directly off speaker taps? If I recall correctly that is a possibility for giving them what they need, but I may be wrong

Click to expand...

Yes. I bought a Pioneer switching box that connects to the speaker taps of my McIntosh MC-402. I was under-whelmed. Probably should re-visit it.

Quote:

nick n said:

did either of you try running them directly off speaker taps? If I recall correctly that is a possibility for giving them what they need, but I may be wrong

Click to expand...

My SE-500 and SE-700 sound infinitely better out of my desktop system's speaker taps, but theres an internal splitter that sends everything 60Hz and below to the subwoofer, so its not exactly usable.
 
I plan on getting a speaker amp for them soon. 
 
Also, flyer, I wouldn't use that old junction box, it muddles things up. The resistor network in it is old and bad. I myself just made a little adapter to plug into from some spare parts. Works like a charm.
 
I'd take a picture but it's late and the lighting sucks right now, lol.

^ BMF if it is that same one I am thinking it was NOS junction box right?  Depending on the resistors type inside you could always open it up and replace them with something "tweaky" might be a fun quick project. Be interesting to see the values anyhow and how they set it up...thinking out loud again.
 
Takato what did you use?

Quote:

nick n said:

^ BMF if it is that same one I am thinking it was NOS junction box right?  Depending on the resistors type inside you could always open it up and replace them with something "tweaky" might be a fun quick project. Be interesting to see the values anyhow and how they set it up...thinking out loud again.
 
Takato what did you use?

Click to expand...

I used an old 1/4" adapter from a karaoke machine and some speaker wires from ratshack cut relatively short. The plug sits on top of my woofer.
 
Nothing too fancy, but it gets the job done. 

ahh no resistors at all i see . No doubt the best method. Our "Ratshack" became "The Source"  Somehow it's just not the same as the old days.

Quote:

nick n said:

ahh no resistors at all i see . No doubt the best method. Our "Ratshack" became "The Source"  Somehow it's just not the same as the old days.

Click to expand...

Yeah, the only benefit that resistors offer is slightly more protection against an accidental overvolting, but I don't really have to worry about that since I'm careful with it.
 
Not to mention that my desktop speakers couldn't blow the SE-700 even if they tried, hah.