baronbeehive
Headphoneus Supremus
But you're already saving as you dont "need" to change that many resistors on your board. Lucky person
Caps on the way, and just the 220k, 330 and 8k2 resistors
Little Dot MK8SE / MK6 Super Mods (All verified mods are on first page)
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Caps on the way, and just the 220k, 330 and 8k2 resistors
SonicTrance
Member of the Trade: Custom Amp Builder
But you're already saving as you dont "need" to change that many resistors on your board. Lucky person
Caps on the way, and just the 220k, 330 and 8k2 resistors
Nice! Looking forward to see your build!
baronbeehive
Headphoneus Supremus
Sorry I can't tell you but I know the HD800 goes well with the Mk8, there are people here with the HD800 though who will tell you I'm sure
Yes, would have been better to know for sure what is used in other MK6s
What I think is that your 100K pot will still act as a Voltage divider and basically can be used as a replacement.
You may notice that your "listening position" will differ from what you were accustomed with the 20K pot, but those pots being on log scale, that should not be too bad.
If it's too inconfortable, we may dig into the subject and rework the values of the surrounding resistors (that should part of the overall Voltage divider) to find a better listening position.
From Wiki :
The question will be to know how R2 is compared to RL ... and so to know what is the value of RL => increase it to make it non-significant in the Voltage divider.
But RL seems to be also part of the Negative Feedback loop, so we may be limited here ...
A better solution for him, is to buy a 20k pot and sell me his 100k..
Sorry I can't tell you but I know the HD800 goes well with the Mk8, there are people here with the HD800 though who will tell you I'm sure
Well, when you think about it, was the name MK"8" a hint?
If thats not enough hint,
how about the prototype, called MK800?..(!)
So the answer is yes, the MK8 is one of the best suited amps for the HD800 ever designed..
Notice I did not say "made", because as is, it sounds handicapped by the cost cutting choices made..
If I was not wanting to mod, I would go for a Cavali amp.
If I wanted to save money and learn about tube amps,
Then this DIY SuperMod thread is ideal,
As you are basically pushing the sound quality to true "end-game-toys" status.
Mogos
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So MisterX,s LD has 100ka pot.
baronbeehive
can you make photo of yours or write down what is on your pot.
The listening position for me is not so important. With the one I had I have been listening on 10 o'clock and it was quite aloud. I am controling volume digitaly (mostly going down max 10 db) If MisterX have 100K with the same resistors behind it so my shall work as well. And maybe it will be installing a correct one finaly .
baronbeehive
can you make photo of yours or write down what is on your pot.
The listening position for me is not so important. With the one I had
I have been listening on 10 o'clock and it was quite aloud. I am controling volume digitaly (mostly going down max 10 db) If MisterX have 100K with the same resistors behind it so my shall work as well. And maybe it will be installing a correct one finaly .
Mogos
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Thank you baronbeehive. The photograph answers to all my questions. Yours is 100k. Look at the description on the board along side of the pot. It is written 4x20KA. It looks that my amp is the oldest one with all yours and the pot was installed according to original design.
Mogos, you can also keep your upgraded pot value by changing the resistors that I PMed you and we are currently looking into.
Coinmaster schematic seems to show a variable in the gain switch area which "could" be a feedback resistor which we have to verify.
If so, this is another area to optimize,
But for now, it is still being looked into..
The real problem is I tired of opening my unit..
Coinmaster schematic seems to show a variable in the gain switch area which "could" be a feedback resistor which we have to verify.
If so, this is another area to optimize,
But for now, it is still being looked into..
The real problem is I tired of opening my unit..
baronbeehive
Headphoneus Supremus
Mogos, you can also keep your upgraded pot value by changing the resistors that I PMed you and we are currently looking into.
Coinmaster schematic seems to show a variable in the gain switch area which "could" be a feedback resistor which we have to verify.
If so, this is another area to optimize,
But for now, it is still being looked into..
The real problem is I tired of opening my unit..
Maybe some sort of quick release mechanism is called for.
I confirmed what MisterX said about the measurement of the 47uFMcaps decoupling caps for the driver tubes while I had the bottom off, there doesn't seem to be any way that they would fit. Now I've just go to wait and see when I get the parts.
You don't need those type caps there...
you should use more compact form like wima for that, like what I used
you should use more compact form like wima for that, like what I used
SonicTrance
Member of the Trade: Custom Amp Builder
Mogos, you can also keep your upgraded pot value by changing the resistors that I PMed you and we are currently looking into.
Coinmaster schematic seems to show a variable in the gain switch area which "could" be a feedback resistor which we have to verify.
If so, this is another area to optimize,
But for now, it is still being looked into..
The real problem is I tired of opening my unit..
Maybe some sort of quick release mechanism is called for.
I confirmed what MisterX said about the measurement of the 47uFMcaps decoupling caps for the driver tubes while I had the bottom off, there doesn't seem to be any way that they would fit. Now I've just go to wait and see when I get the parts.
What size caps did you get?
The purpose of these caps is not for PSU regulation or for sound,
but for fast response time..
Edit:
Which in turn affects sound..
Edit:
The original design had both a "reservoir" electrolytic, and an antiparasitic wima...
Neither we are using here..
Yet it will do both better
but for fast response time..
Edit:
Which in turn affects sound..
Edit:
The original design had both a "reservoir" electrolytic, and an antiparasitic wima...
Neither we are using here..
Yet it will do both better
baronbeehive
Headphoneus Supremus
I got 4x47uF and 2x15 like you got, I didn't want to take any chances.
I did look into getting the wimas for the reason you suggest Maxx but they are very large, even the 25uF's, and I didn't think they would fit either. I'll just check while I've got the back off.
Incidently, MisterX, your pics of the different stages are so clear they should be a massive help to anyone doing the mods.
SONYES
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Sorry I can't tell you but I know the HD800 goes well with the Mk8, there are people here with the HD800 though who will tell you I'm sure
thank you
baronbeehive
Headphoneus Supremus
That's OK, hope you read the post by Maxx134!
I've just measured the space and depending if it doesn't matter which way round they go it could lie flat but the limiting factor would be the height from the board and it looks like the 25uF would fit but the 40uF would probably be 4 or 5mm too high. It's difficult to say without the part though. I have extra width than MisterX because my coupling/WCF caps are thinner.
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