Competition Closed...but what is in the Retro – Stereo 50?
May 17, 2015 at 2:27 PM Post #288 of 517
Hmmm, I always regarded 'high level' inputs as inferior SQ wise to 'fixed' line inputs... but got nothing to back this.
 
May 17, 2015 at 3:32 PM Post #289 of 517
  Thought about this today, but there's no line out.
Better find high sensitivity / full range speakers then I guess... (or maybe listen to the LS3.5 first :wink: )

That is right, no line out from my Retro. I would not use the speaker outs to connect to a device line level inputs. Just like you would not use a high power stereo amp speaker taps to a line in device without using a matching device.
 
May 17, 2015 at 3:37 PM Post #290 of 517
Stereo receivers, pre-amps, and integrated amplifiers rarely have subwoofer output jacks or offer bass-management options. So instead of using those connections, we'll use the subwoofer's speaker-level, aka "high-level," inputs. Most, but not all, subwoofers have these inputs; they get connected using speaker cables to the same speaker output jacks on your receiver or amplifier that are also hooked up to your speakers. That means you have to double up the connections on the receiver or amplifier
 
May 17, 2015 at 6:28 PM Post #291 of 517
  Hmmm, I always regarded 'high level' inputs as inferior SQ wise to 'fixed' line inputs... but got nothing to back this.

 
No idea, but according to this article...
 
Quote: Upscale Audio
 

SO WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU DON’T HAVE A PREAMP OUT?

Most subwoofers are designed to handle this situation. They have a high-level input (sometimes called speaker-level input) that hooks up to the speaker taps of your amp. All you do is run another pair of speaker cable from the output taps of your amplifier into the high-level input on your subwoofer. This connection works the same way as a preamp/subwoofer output: It takes the voltage from the amp as the signal and sends it into the subwoofer.

This does not cause a power draw on the amp you hook up to. It is merely sharing the signal with your main speakers, not the power of the amp. This means there is no power draw, and the impedances all remain the same.

In fact, even if your preamp or integrated has a preamp/subwoofer output, you may want to consider using the high-level connection method. The most prestigious subwoofers in the industry are made by REL of England. They are the “Gold Standard” of the industry and priced accordingly, topping out at $9,000! REL recommends using the high-level input for all of their subwoofers. The reason they recommend this type of connection is as simple as it is logical: it ensures your subwoofer is seeing the EXACT SAME SIGNAL as your speakers. If you use the preamp/subwoofer output from your preamp or integrated, the signal seen by your subwoofer does not include the tonal balance and timing cues created by the amp. By using the high-level connection, the subwoofer gets the same signal as your main speakers, keeping them in better synch with each other, thus improving sound quality.

 
May 17, 2015 at 9:11 PM Post #292 of 517
I think as long as your passive speakers checks out with the power output, sensitivity and impedance of the Retro 50, they should work just fine. The sub I have in mind is an active sub, so it should work out. Just wondering if anyone had given this setup a go.
 
 
Given that the 25W+25W output for the Retro 50 are "measured using a music signal into the matching speaker at the onset of clipping, it should work out fine in theory.
 
May 22, 2015 at 8:48 AM Post #293 of 517
For iCLUB members ONLY - please open a new support ticket and ask your concierge for the v4.08 Beta firmware.

 
 
 

BETA: v4.08 Firmware upgrade

 
User Notes:
This is the first unified version of firmware for nano iDSD, micro iDSD and Retro ONLY.
NOT to be uploaded to the micro iLink, micro iDAC, nor AMR DP-777!

 
Improvements
• Further improvement sfor DoP playback which exhibits clicks/pops during track changes
• Various optimisations regarding clock distribution.
• Various optimisations regarding muting circuitry.
• Improved compatibility with Mac OS X.
 
Bug fixes
• Fixed various small bugs.
 
 
Note to others, once this has been confirmed as all a-okay, we will release this into the wild for everyone to enjoy.
 
We thank you for your patience but as you can see, we do not issue firmware updates lightly because they need to undergo rigorous testing.
 
iFi audio Stay updated on iFi audio at their sponsor profile on Head-Fi.
 
https://www.facebook.com/people/IFi-audio/61558986775162/ https://twitter.com/ifiaudio https://www.instagram.com/ifiaudio/ https://ifi-audio.com/ https://www.youtube.com/@iFiaudiochannel comms@ifi-audio.com
May 26, 2015 at 8:36 AM Post #294 of 517
  Thought about this today, but there's no line out.
Better find high sensitivity / full range speakers then I guess... (or maybe listen to the LS3.5 first :wink: )

 
We have found that the only way to make sure subwoofers integrate well with main speakers is to use a direct speaker feed. Line level subwoofer feeds simply do not seem to work well in practice, with main speakers and subwoofer playing different tunes.
 
Please add a high quality subwoofer with speaker level inputs. Our Chief Designer, Mr. Loesch uses a Retro system at home, with a custom Subwoofer (10" Dynaudio Driver + generic 150W Plate Amp) for a massively impressive sounding overall system.
 
Check out his system here: https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t31.0-8/10633373_981064788588220_6848022367353813361_o.jpg
 
Thanks,
 
iFi audio Stay updated on iFi audio at their sponsor profile on Head-Fi.
 
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May 26, 2015 at 9:12 AM Post #295 of 517


...or you can just look at the photo...

10633373_981064788588220_6848022367353813361_o.jpg


:D
 
Jun 4, 2015 at 4:34 PM Post #297 of 517
I really like my Retro here is some translated points that this website made.
 
http://hifiphilosophy.com/recenzja-ifi-audio-retro-stereo-50/?caly-artykul=1
 
 
  1. All in one.
  2. And all very good.
  3. Vivid, natural sound.
  4. On the tube charm.
  5. Compelling midrange.
  6. Quality spectacular highs.
  7. Excellent grasp the correct tone.
  8. Great detail.
  9. Very good quality speakers in the set.
  10. Spectacular headphone amplifier.
  11. Much of power to the speaker outputs and powerful on the headset.
  12. Very good showing characteristics of individual handsets.
 
Jun 5, 2015 at 4:52 AM Post #299 of 517
 
I am sure it would sound so much better if the speaker were on stands. 
biggrin.gif

 
Hi,
 
Good point raised.
 
 

Stand and Deliver?

There is a common Audiophile misconception, that speakers MUST be on stands. Some do benefit, but is not a cast-iron requirement. The problem is that common 'Audiophile' speakers are designed according to a set of ideals that are usually either misconscrued or misunderstood, if our goal is to reproduce the recording well.
 
Common are the ideals of the 'pulsating sphere' or the 'pulsating hemisphere'. Neither will produce good results unless placed far out in the room on stands, because such speakers maximise interaction with the environment, causing the performance in the bass and midrange to be extremely room dependent.
 
There is a reason why most large format true studio monitors are designed for soffit mounting (meaning flush in a wall) and have quite directional midrange and high frequency systems. Mounted correctly they present a very neutral tonal balance and killer imaging (kind of 'and the walls disappeared and the sea parted') in ways few audiophile systems ever manage. Of course, Studios are also acoustically-treated, on top of this. However, often less treatment is applied than most imagine.
 

 
The iFi Retro LS-3.5 was designed with both an understanding of serious studio monitoring and home replay of music. It was designed to be used exactly like shown, as we imagined that most customers would place it like this, where they have a comparably modest (negative) visual impact on the room. And the WAF factor is best.
 
Most 'Audiophile' speakers based on 'close to a pulsating sphere/hemisphere' approach invariably must be placed where the visual impact is most negative, often almost in the centre of the room1(and the WAF factor is worst!).
 

 
This is direct result of the design of these speakers with an intentional (if extremely ill advised) wide directivity. Placement free from room surfaces is essential to avoid early reflections and to avoid an excessive thickening of the bass and lower mids (male voices become overly plummy). As an added result of this type of design/tuning/placement the speaker's efficiency is usually quite low, meaning smaller designs placed thus struggle to play loud and clean.
 
An alternative method to controling early reflections in the midrange and treble is to improve the directivity (make the speaker approach more a 'spotlight'), which is what is done in the LS-3.5 and also in large format studio monitors. Equally, the midrange and LF balance are ideally-suited for literal placement as 'bookshelf speakers' ideally surrounded by books (this simulates for low frequencies soffit mounting).
 
Placing the LS-3.5 out in the open will mean they will sound thin, in which case the use of X-Bass switch is essential to avoid this. The X-Bass system is actually tuned to compensate for semi-open (one dot) or free on stand (three dot) placement of the LS-3.5 or for similar speaker designs (generally ones that otherwise perfer to dwell near walls).
 
In addition, again contrary to audiophile practice, we have designed the speaker to have a flat frequency response not on the direct axis, which means that the speakers must be toe'd in and directed towards the listener to avoid sounding dull. Instead the flat response is realised on the 30 degrees off-axis position, meaning the speakers should be pointed straight ahead, not toe'd in.
 
You might say that with LS-3.5 we took as one of the starting points the way 'normal people' would place a HiFi system and speakers and then set out to deliver a serious audiophile performance from the speakers. How well we have suceeded? Do listen for yourself and let us know.
 
As it stands in our chief designer's open plan living room (with an open Galley style kitchen) the Retro Stereo 50, a pair of LS-3.52 in a large space of over 45sqm (144cubic foot) with great sound, loud enough to annoy neighbours and for any music listening this side of head banging heavy metal at live concert levels. Elevating the speakers some more may be good, however even as is, the image height is pretty good (never mind width and depth) and the vertical listening window (even standing up) is good. Of course, don't try this at home with common 'audiophile' speaker designs.
 
1See Audio Physics method for speaker placement: http://www.soundstage.com/audiohell/audiohell200111.htm
2 The extra 10" active subwoofer is a nice compliment for movies and such in a pretty large space of over 45m^2
 
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Jun 5, 2015 at 9:22 AM Post #300 of 517
Ted Jordan recommends a placement where the speakers are close to or on the walls and over-toed to 60 degrees. Like the LS3.5, his JX92S drivers are 'hotter' at 0 degrees and 'about right' at 30 degrees. The theory is that if you sit in the middle, you will enjoy a 30 degree 'just right' sound. If you move to the left, the right speaker will get louder as you are now moving towards 0 degrees for that speaker. This will compensate for the increased distance from the right speaker and keep the stereo image centred between the speakers. Thus you will have a very wide sweet spot. It sounds as though the LS3.5 might also lend itself to such a placement.
 

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