Elekit TU-8200 DX Headphone/Speaker Amp Review
Feb 27, 2016 at 2:52 AM Post #421 of 1,441
I just finished pulling together my notes and getting the photos off my camera of the mods I recently did to the case of the Elekit, so I thought I'd share the process and results.
 
A little background first.  Due to the case of Elekit getting quite warm, even a bit hot at times, especially with KT-88s and 6550s, I decided that I wanted to modify the case to allow some air flow through to the components and cool everything down in general.  I've also been wanting to paint the chassis for a while; whereas the silver was nice, it is a bit out of place for my uses.  After performing the air cooling mods, the case temperature went down to about a quarter of what it was originally stock, very nice!  However, using adapters/savers can also help reduce the surface temp as well, but I do like being able to use the straight sockets while not have to worry about the components underneath and closer to the surface.  It is more of a piece of mind than anything, as the without the mod, the case never got as hot as a few other amps I know about, so I don't believe this mod is ultimately required.
 
I started by measuring and then cutting an 80 mm hole into both the top as well as bottom of the case to allow vertical air flow up and around the PCB, OPTs, etc.  I just used a dremel tool with metal cutters and then files to smooth out any burs.  I did not want to install actual fans for various reasons, but I just wanted a simple way to allow a little air from the bottom of the case to filter through and out the top.
 
Once I finished drilling the holes for the mounts, I primed all the parts prior to painting.
 

 
I ended up going with what is called "Carbon Mist" for the paint and I'm pretty happy with the end results.
 

 
As far as the assembly of the top and bottom vents, below is a list of the materials used:
  1. Two 80 mm stainless steel computer fan mounts with honeycomb grills - painted
  2. Two 80 mm computer fan foam filters to stop/trap any large particles
  3. Two 80 mm rubber fan mounts to reduce vibrations between the case and the assembly
  4. The bottom ends of two 80 mm plastic fan enclosures to hold the foam
    1. These were also covered in 3M RFI/EMI shielding, with cutouts for airflow; I figured since I was cutting such large holes in the steel case, it would be best to try to stop as many possible nasties from entering, or even exiting, at least as best as possible
      1. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/AB6005/3M6005D-ND/2213541
 

 
Here is some pictures of the the enclosures before/after I cutout the vents with the shielding attached:
 


 
I also decided to replace some of the screws, since they were getting a bit stripped and didn't mesh with the new color, with anodized black Hex screws and rubber washers to reduce any vibrations.  The vent assemblies are also easy enough to open to, allowing cleaning of the filter from time to time, so I'm not too worried about dust buildup.   Below are some pictures of the finished/assembled vents and filters:
 


 
I also decided to replace the stock feet with these nice steel and rubber versions seen on the unit below:
 

 
In all, I think it turned out pretty nice, except that I did go a bit heavy on the paint and clear coat, while forgetting that the front bezel is so tight!  Putting it back on, it chipped off a bit of the corner paint (seen left below), so I'll be doing some retouching/refinishing this spring/summer.
 


 
I've tested the unit by running KT-88s for about three hours, without adapters, and where the case was getting the hottest before, right between the 12au7s as well as right behind the KT-88s, it was just warm to the touch, but no where near uncomfortable at all.  I can also feel a bit of warm air escaping from the top vent, so I'm convinced that actual fans are not necessary, just a good way for the air to flow through.  I'm thinking that the heat is about a quarter what it was before, so along with the new paint, I'm really happy with the results!
 
beerchug.gif
 
 
Feb 27, 2016 at 11:30 PM Post #422 of 1,441
Right on !!! great work !!
 
Mar 17, 2016 at 12:22 PM Post #425 of 1,441
A new version of 300B amp  is in the planning stage... This new version will address the short fall of TU-8300R. In fact, TU-8300R is 6 years old old. It is time to  redesign this amp.
 
Mar 17, 2016 at 12:46 PM Post #427 of 1,441
Mr Fujita is working  on a very powerful pp amp. His next project is 300B amp. I will let him know  the possibility to add the headphone feature. Thank you for your suggestion.
If you need help to build your TU-8200. I am happy to assist you 
 
Mar 17, 2016 at 10:39 PM Post #428 of 1,441
  Mr Fujita is working  on a very powerful pp amp. His next project is 300B amp. I will let him know  the possibility to add the headphone feature. Thank you for your suggestion.
If you need help to build your TU-8200. I am happy to assist you 

 
I'll add my vote for the headphone out. I was looking for a 300B headphone amp when I came across the TU-8200 and decided to go with that instead. I'd definitely be interested in building another amp if/when it becomes available.
 
  -Mike
 
Mar 20, 2016 at 3:59 PM Post #430 of 1,441
Congrats on the purchase SuperDuke!
 
Let us know how the build goes and your first impressions.  I found that my unit needed about 30 hours of burn-in before it opened up, during this time the bass was a bit light and overall the sound was a little loose, but after around 30 hours it started to settle in.
 
Once you've got a good feel for the sound of the stock tubes, let us know what you are lacking or looking more for and we can recommend some other options.  Many of the owners in this thread have had a ton of experience with both NOS and new production variants, so they are a great resource.
 
Welcome to the club!
 
beerchug.gif
 
 
Mar 20, 2016 at 4:52 PM Post #431 of 1,441
  The headphone feature  is a must for the next 300B amp.

I think it would be one of the few 300b amps w/ headphone output.  Transcendent Sound make a 300b OTL design but spec wise it seems to have a very low output that might not drive may of the flagship headphones.
  Congrats on the purchase SuperDuke!
 
Let us know how the build goes and your first impressions.  I found that my unit needed about 30 hours of burn-in before it opened up, during this time the bass was a bit light and overall the sound was a little loose, but after around 30 hours it started to settle in.
 
Once you've got a good feel for the sound of the stock tubes, let us know what you are lacking or looking more for and we can recommend some other options.  Many of the owners in this thread have had a ton of experience with both NOS and new production variants, so they are a great resource.
 
Welcome to the club!
 
beerchug.gif
 

Thanks Effusion-  I really like your paint and ventilation work on your amp.  
 
Mar 22, 2016 at 8:44 AM Post #432 of 1,441
Received the TU8200 yesterday and started confirming all parts.  A bit daunting at first but I think it'll be OK.  I'll reach out to the group here or to Victor If I run into problems.   I might need a fine tip for my soldering iron.
 
I'm not going to make changes until I try everything in it's original form.  Just curious though-  has anyone tried different output transformers?  Would upgraded transformers make a significant difference?
 
Mar 23, 2016 at 10:42 AM Post #433 of 1,441
Have any of you that have built the TU8200 had problems w/ the instrucitons on page 3 (section 2 -list of resistors)?  My Hardcopy instructions that came w/ the kit and the online pdf both have little grey boxes (like autofil boxes or something) that give an incomplete description for some resistors -  For example "R (little grey box) 100Kohm"- where it should read something like "R2 100K".    No way to tell which number some of the resistors are.
 
If you have directions that are clear please PM me Or am I missing something?
 
thanks!
 
 
EDIT- I just looked at page 8 which has the pictorial description of the the PCBs w/ resistor number and values-  that may work better than the page 3 instructions
 
Mar 23, 2016 at 9:41 PM Post #434 of 1,441
  Have any of you that have built the TU8200 had problems w/ the instrucitons on page 3 (section 2 -list of resistors)?  My Hardcopy instructions that came w/ the kit and the online pdf both have little grey boxes (like autofil boxes or something) that give an incomplete description for some resistors -  For example "R (little grey box) 100Kohm"- where it should read something like "R2 100K".    No way to tell which number some of the resistors are.
 
If you have directions that are clear please PM me Or am I missing something?
 
thanks!
 
 
EDIT- I just looked at page 8 which has the pictorial description of the the PCBs w/ resistor number and values-  that may work better than the page 3 instructions


Don't hesitate to call, txt, or email Victor. He is quick to respond and very helpful.
 

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