Audio-GD Master 9 | Page 41 | Headphone Reviews and Discussion - Head-Fi.org

punit · Oct 19, 2014 at 5:45 AM

richbass said:
The new Schiit Ragnarok seems to have more power than M9. About 1W more. Is it better than M9 ? For the HE-6 mainly. One can also use the HE-6 via its speaker taps. A bonus !

I may be wrong as I am not a very technical guy, but my understanding is using speaker taps on the Rag will not give more power than the HP out for the HE 6.

spurxiii · Oct 19, 2014 at 5:48 AM

richbass said:
The new Schiit Ragnarok seems to have more power than M9. About 1W more. Is it better than M9 ? For the HE-6 mainly. One can also use the HE-6 via its speaker taps. A bonus !

I'm a newbie but I'm sure this means something "Pure Class A"

spurxiii · Oct 19, 2014 at 5:56 AM

From the looks of the power consumption of the Ragnarok would mean it isn't class A if at all (or is it?). From what read it would be difficult to get a lot of power out of a pure class A design due to the amount of heat that needs to be disapated. I believe class A is the best way to amp anything without adding distortion. All other classes add distortion which gives mire power. Someone more technically minded can add to this. No wonder the M9 is do bloody heavy, the chassis and heatsinks

richbass · Oct 19, 2014 at 6:00 AM

punit said:
I may be wrong as I am not a very technical guy, but my understanding is using speaker taps on the Rag will not give more power than the HP out for the HE 6.

spurxiii said:
I'm a newbie but I'm sure this means something "Pure Class A"

spurxiii said:
From the looks of the power consumption of the Ragnarok would mean it isn't class A if at all (or is it?). From what read it would be difficult to get a lot of power out of a pure class A design due to the amount of heat that needs to be disapated. I believe class A is the best way to amp anything without adding distortion. All other classes add distortion which gives mire power. Someone more technically minded can add to this. No wonder the M9 is do bloody heavy, the chassis and heatsinks

Lets wait for the experts to reply

The only thing attracting me to the Ragnarok is being an All in one unit. Otherwise i'd go with Master 7 + Master 10 as an ultimate solution. Master 10 has loads of power and can also be used with HiFi speakers.

A confusion i have : M10 is a integrated amp or just a power amp which needs an external pre amp too ? The website listing mentions Integrated Power Amp. Its a bit confusing to me.

Articnoise · Oct 19, 2014 at 6:12 AM

richbass said:
Lets wait for the experts to reply The only thing attracting me to the Ragnarok is being an All in one unit. Otherwise i'd go with Master 7 + Master 10 as an ultimate solution. Master 10 has loads of of power and can also be used with HiFi speakers.

A confusion i have : M10 is a integrated amp or just a power amp which needs an external pre amp too ? The website listing mentions Integrated Power Amp. Its a bit confusing to me.

It’s an integrated amp. It has a volume pot and remote.

punit · Oct 19, 2014 at 6:15 AM

richbass said:
Lets wait for the experts to reply The only thing attracting me to the Ragnarok is being an All in one unit. Otherwise i'd go with Master 7 + Master 10 as an ultimate solution. Master 10 has loads of of power and can also be used with HiFi speakers.

A confusion i have : M10 is a integrated amp or just a power amp which needs an external pre amp too ? The website listing mentions Integrated Power Amp. Its a bit confusing to me.

The best experts are the people at Schiit. You can drop them a mail. M10 is an intergrated amp, but it does not have HP out , so if you planning to use it with HE 6 & speakers both, it will be a PITA as you will have to keep plugging & unplugging. I would recommend the Rag over the M10 if you are planning to use speakers & HP's both.

richbass · Oct 19, 2014 at 6:30 AM

articnoise said:
It’s an integrated amp. It has a volume pot and remote.

True. Figured that out just now. Thanks

punit said:
The best experts are the people at Schiit. You can drop them a mail. M10 is an intergrated amp, but it does not have HP out , so if you planning to use it with HE 6 & speakers both, it will be a PITA as you will have to keep plugging & unplugging. I would recommend the Rag over the M10 if you are planning to use speakers & HP's both.

Master 7 (DAC) + Master 10 (AMP) would be $$ way over Rag/M9. Lets say, i already have a DAC and if i were to choose only an amp below $2k amp then would it be Rag or M9 ? I think no one has compared Rag with M9 yet as it is a new product on the market.

preproman · Oct 19, 2014 at 8:30 AM

If you want to drive the HE-6 and Speakers only (no other headphones) - I would go with the Master 10. Like punit said it would be a PITA with cable swapping but your have a larger reward in the end.

Remember the Master 10 is a speaker amp only - not designed for headphones at all. So in the end you will be able to use a much wider veritiy of speakers compared to the Rag - I'm talking about harder to drive floor standing speakers if you want. The Master 10 / ( your choice of DAC) for the HE-6 is a winner for sure - lots of headroom doesn't break a sweat.

You think the Master 9 is heavy. The Master 10 is the heaviest speaker amp I've had thus far. I love the way he designs his Master series speaker amps.

If you have a verity of headphones and you want only one amp - go with the Rag or the Master 9 for sure. For the HE-6 "ONLY" I would say the Master 10 has the upper hand of the Rag or the Master 9. Plus - I can move the Master 10 in another room to drive my floor standing speakers if I wanted to.

richbass · Oct 19, 2014 at 8:34 AM

preproman said:
If you want to drive the HE-6 and Speakers only (no other headphones) - I would go with the Master 10. Like punit said it would be a PITA with cable swapping but your have a larger reward in the end.

Remember the Master 10 is a speaker amp only - not designed for headphones at all. So in the end you will be able to use a much wider veritiy of speakers compared to the Rag - I'm talking about harder to drive floor standing speakers if you want. The Master 10 / ( your choice of DAC) for the HE-6 is a winner for sure - lots of headroom doesn't break a sweat.

You think the Master 9 is heavy. The Master 10 is the heaviest speaker amp I've had thus far. I love the way he designs his Master series speaker amps.

If you have a verity of headphones and you want only one amp - go with the Rag or the Master 9 for sure. For the HE-6 "ONLY" I would say the Master 10 has the upper hand of the Rag or the Master 9. Plus - I can move the Master 10 in another room to drive my floor standing speakers if I wanted to.

I think changing cables with banana plus won't take much but yeah it would be a PITA !!
Another option would be http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/SA/SA31/SA31EN_Specs.htm but i think that it has been discontinued.

preproman · Oct 19, 2014 at 8:40 AM

richbass said:
I think changing cables with banana plus won't take much but yeah it would be a PITA !!
Another option would be http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/SA/SA31/SA31EN_Specs.htm but i think that it has been discontinued.

Bananas would be the way to go I agree. The issue I have with Audio-gd headphones amp - and this is IMO, they are BUTT UGLY. The speaker amps are much cleaner looking.

richbass · Oct 19, 2014 at 8:52 AM

preproman said:
Bananas would be the way to go I agree. The issue I have with Audio-gd headphones amp - and this is IMO, they are BUTT UGLY. The speaker amps are much cleaner looking.

Why do u use Berkeley Audio Alpha USB when u already have USB on Master 7 ?

preproman · Oct 19, 2014 at 9:00 AM

richbass said:
Why do u use Berkeley Audio Alpha USB when u already have USB on Master 7 ?

I have multiple DACs at difference lengths. The Alpha USB allows me to use only one driver and an AES/EBU cable to change DACs easy while still using the one driver. The lengths of my setup is the main issue that a converter solves.

richbass · Oct 19, 2014 at 9:14 AM

preproman said:
I have multiple DACs at difference lengths. The Alpha USB allows me to use only one driver and an AES/EBU cable to change DACs easy while still using the one driver. The lengths of my setup is the main issue that a converter solves.

Oh Ok. How did u get the HDMI i2S add-on for the M7 ?

preproman · Oct 19, 2014 at 9:17 AM

I bought it like that - used..

richbass · Oct 19, 2014 at 9:28 AM

preproman said:
I bought it like that - used..

After a lot of reading i found out that M7's inputs are not that good on SQ. Since the DACLadders HDMI i2S board is not available anymore, we would need to use the digital RJ45 i2S using http://www.ciaudio.com/products/TransientMKII or http://estore.audiobyte.ro/Audiobyte-Hydra.html in order to get maximum SQ out of M7. This would make it way too costly. I think i'll pass M7 and look for a cheaper alternative. Do you have any suggestions ?

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