Can I be included in the email?, I would like to see as well.
Eudis
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2014
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For anyone interested this is the album for some modded DenonX000/Fostex600/THx00/900.
http://imgur.com/a/Yqoq4
I think I might do 3.5mm since I have all the parts and seems practical.
My plan is to cut away at the baffle just enough to get the 3.5mm jack in and grind the wood a tiny bit with a rotary too so it sits flush on the 3.5mm jack.
http://imgur.com/a/Yqoq4
I think I might do 3.5mm since I have all the parts and seems practical.
My plan is to cut away at the baffle just enough to get the 3.5mm jack in and grind the wood a tiny bit with a rotary too so it sits flush on the 3.5mm jack.
Anyone have any Flexo Nylon Multifilament - 3/8"?
I would like to see if it fits some cable I have, but there doesn't seem to be a way to get a short strip at a reasonable price.
If you would be willing to send me 6 inches, I'd happily pay the postage.
TIA
I would like to see if it fits some cable I have, but there doesn't seem to be a way to get a short strip at a reasonable price.
If you would be willing to send me 6 inches, I'd happily pay the postage.
TIA
PinkyPowers
Reviewer: The Headphone List
Anyone know where to get there 2.5mm mono jacks?
http://www.redco.com/Switchcraft-850.html
Anyone know where to get there 2.5mm mono jacks?
http://www.redco.com/Switchcraft-850.html
Those don't look anything like the ones pictured. Does moon audio take as witchcraft jack and then add something on top of the jack?
Benny-x
1000+ Head-Fier
After investigating and monitoring Moon Audio for many years, I do believe different types of witchcraft are used in unison with the moon phases. It is not only limited to jacks or jack-tops. I would be careful trying to duplicate their practices and just settle with keeping them at the other end of a UPS delivery.
I have no idea what they do and cannot contribute anything of value beyond enjoying Moon Audio and witchcraft
Benny-x
1000+ Head-Fier
I also need some help.
I'm making up a few headphone cables for myself and I always liked the look for this clear heatshrink, but I have no idea what it is. It's much clearer, shiny, and almost thicker looking than anything else I've seen on eBay or whatever. Most clear heatshrink has a kind of cloudy look to it.
I think this is an old Norse (now Norne) Audio adaptor.
In this picture it looks like there's a brown heatshrink base, then a layer of black, and finally the shiny, clear heatshrink. Do you agree that's what's going on or is there more to it? I'm also looking for some nice blue (not too light, not too dark) and some nice red (full bodied red, not weak looking, light matte red) heat shrink to put on each side and then under the clear heatshrink. Help appreciated in any recommendation of where to buy good quality, good coloured stuff.
Then after that, I've bought some carbon fibre sleeving from DHC and want to put is around my 6 wire round weave, but I'm worried about how the little flaky fibres will come off. I'm wondering what I can wrap the wire bundle in that will stop them from rubbing the carbon fibre too much? I'm thinking a thin wrapping of teflon tap the whole length of the cable? Then I need to wrap the outside of the carbon fibre sleeving to stop the fibres from catching on the final nylon multifilament outer sleeving. Again, I'm thinking a thin wrapping of teflon tap the length of the cable?
I've never wrapped a cable in teflon tape before, so I'm not sure how much it's going to restrict the flexibility of the cable as whole. I'd like it to be as flexible as possible, as much as a 6 wire round braid can be anyway. If anyone has any experience with teflon tape or another idea, I'd love to know.
I'm making up a few headphone cables for myself and I always liked the look for this clear heatshrink, but I have no idea what it is. It's much clearer, shiny, and almost thicker looking than anything else I've seen on eBay or whatever. Most clear heatshrink has a kind of cloudy look to it.
I think this is an old Norse (now Norne) Audio adaptor.
In this picture it looks like there's a brown heatshrink base, then a layer of black, and finally the shiny, clear heatshrink. Do you agree that's what's going on or is there more to it? I'm also looking for some nice blue (not too light, not too dark) and some nice red (full bodied red, not weak looking, light matte red) heat shrink to put on each side and then under the clear heatshrink. Help appreciated in any recommendation of where to buy good quality, good coloured stuff.
Then after that, I've bought some carbon fibre sleeving from DHC and want to put is around my 6 wire round weave, but I'm worried about how the little flaky fibres will come off. I'm wondering what I can wrap the wire bundle in that will stop them from rubbing the carbon fibre too much? I'm thinking a thin wrapping of teflon tap the whole length of the cable? Then I need to wrap the outside of the carbon fibre sleeving to stop the fibres from catching on the final nylon multifilament outer sleeving. Again, I'm thinking a thin wrapping of teflon tap the length of the cable?
I've never wrapped a cable in teflon tape before, so I'm not sure how much it's going to restrict the flexibility of the cable as whole. I'd like it to be as flexible as possible, as much as a 6 wire round braid can be anyway. If anyone has any experience with teflon tape or another idea, I'd love to know.
rmoody
500+ Head-Fier
Been busy cable making for the Nashville headfi meet.
The first one is the same cable I made before for my Ether C, just rebuilt them. I removed the Gotham cable's insulation and shielding and put some orange para-cord over it, because go Vols and all that. Then I put a female version of the connector that Dan uses on it. The objective is to make them modular. This one is about 4 feet long.
Next is the same thing, but about 6 feet long using Mogami W2534 instead of the Gotham cable. I like the Mogami cable better, it works very well with Dan's connectors with all 4 conductors and the brass ring provides a good mechanical connection. On the left and right ends with only 2 wires things are not so rosy. But a glad happenstance showed me that if you let one end of that brass crimp ring go under the other, you get a good mechanical connection for strain relieve and it's easier to get to fit into the connector. I may actually go back to the 4 foot version and do this.
Third is an extension cable, about 6 feet long. Notice the all silver end? I tried this version for giggles. It works pretty good actually with Mogami W2534 and provides a good mechanical connection. It did put some scores in the para-cord. I may get a burr up somewhere and replace it with the "standard" version, dunno. The hardest part of these connectors is that infernal brass crimp ring for which I have no crimper. So I do the best I can with pliers but I wind up having to file them down to get them to fit, works out in the end.
Last are my modular connectors. 4 pin XLR balanced, 1/4" TRS, 2.5mm TRRS (I hope I can find a right angle version I like one day.), and last 3.5mm TRS right angle.
I have plans for a 3.5mm TRS straight using a ViaBlue that is on it's way.
Anywho, enjoy the cable porn (for what it is) and I hope to see you in Nashville!
The first one is the same cable I made before for my Ether C, just rebuilt them. I removed the Gotham cable's insulation and shielding and put some orange para-cord over it, because go Vols and all that. Then I put a female version of the connector that Dan uses on it. The objective is to make them modular. This one is about 4 feet long.
Next is the same thing, but about 6 feet long using Mogami W2534 instead of the Gotham cable. I like the Mogami cable better, it works very well with Dan's connectors with all 4 conductors and the brass ring provides a good mechanical connection. On the left and right ends with only 2 wires things are not so rosy. But a glad happenstance showed me that if you let one end of that brass crimp ring go under the other, you get a good mechanical connection for strain relieve and it's easier to get to fit into the connector. I may actually go back to the 4 foot version and do this.
Third is an extension cable, about 6 feet long. Notice the all silver end? I tried this version for giggles. It works pretty good actually with Mogami W2534 and provides a good mechanical connection. It did put some scores in the para-cord. I may get a burr up somewhere and replace it with the "standard" version, dunno. The hardest part of these connectors is that infernal brass crimp ring for which I have no crimper. So I do the best I can with pliers but I wind up having to file them down to get them to fit, works out in the end.
Last are my modular connectors. 4 pin XLR balanced, 1/4" TRS, 2.5mm TRRS (I hope I can find a right angle version I like one day.), and last 3.5mm TRS right angle.
I have plans for a 3.5mm TRS straight using a ViaBlue that is on it's way.
Anywho, enjoy the cable porn (for what it is) and I hope to see you in Nashville!
Benny-x
1000+ Head-Fier
I also need some help.
I'm making up a few headphone cables for myself and I always liked the look for this clear heatshrink, but I have no idea what it is. It's much clearer, shiny, and almost thicker looking than anything else I've seen on eBay or whatever. Most clear heatshrink has a kind of cloudy look to it.
I think this is an old Norse (now Norne) Audio adaptor.
In this picture it looks like there's a brown heatshrink base, then a layer of black, and finally the shiny, clear heatshrink. Do you agree that's what's going on or is there more to it? I'm also looking for some nice blue (not too light, not too dark) and some nice red (full bodied red, not weak looking, light matte red) heat shrink to put on each side and then under the clear heatshrink. Help appreciated in any recommendation of where to buy good quality, good coloured stuff.
Then after that, I've bought some carbon fibre sleeving from DHC and want to put is around my 6 wire round weave, but I'm worried about how the little flaky fibres will come off. I'm wondering what I can wrap the wire bundle in that will stop them from rubbing the carbon fibre too much? I'm thinking a thin wrapping of teflon tap the whole length of the cable? Then I need to wrap the outside of the carbon fibre sleeving to stop the fibres from catching on the final nylon multifilament outer sleeving. Again, I'm thinking a thin wrapping of teflon tap the length of the cable?
I've never wrapped a cable in teflon tape before, so I'm not sure how much it's going to restrict the flexibility of the cable as whole. I'd like it to be as flexible as possible, as much as a 6 wire round braid can be anyway. If anyone has any experience with teflon tape or another idea, I'd love to know.
No love?
@rmoody what type of connector did you use for the detachable cable end, is it a 4 pin mini xlr?. Youngish a great job , they look super clean
Benny-x
1000+ Head-Fier
It's a 4 pin Hirose connector. They're most famously used by MrSpeakers on their headphones and by iBasso on their old portable amps and DACs. It's another miniature locking connector like mini XLR. Hirose seems to have the mini locking connector market locked down outside of the audiophile world, though. PSUs, camera connections, work stations, etc.
I'm also making some modular cables for my portable set and I'm still up in the air whether I want to do mini 4 pin XLR or 4 pin Hirose :-/ Hirose support looks wider, but alas Furutech or other reputable companies don't make them :~)
rmoody
500+ Head-Fier
What he said. It's basically the female version of what Dan uses, when I get home I'll get the Mouser link for you. But they are expensive there, I found a guy on eBay selling them cheaper but they are still a bit pricey.
There are also two styles, as you can see on my extension cable, one has that infernal brass ring that is secured to the shell with a .050" hex cap screw, the other uses a compression ring method. Both have advantages/disadvantages and the brass ring would win out if I could find the dang crimp tool (reasonably priced of course).
I originally bought mini XLR, but they pissed me off before I even used them because they are very clumsy to deal with. Too many small parts to fiddle with and line up and the only ones I could find affordably in 4 pin were the Redco, which are ok, but not the quality of Neutrik (their parent company). The Switchcraft are probably great,but they cost nearly as much or more than the Hirose. If anyone can find a good mini 4 pin XLR connector, chime in.
Dan sells the male connectors for a steal (I guess he can do that when he orders them by the thousands) so between this and the ease of use, I dumped the mini XLR idea. I keep hoping he'll see my modular cables and steal the idea from me (You listening Dan? You can repay me via selling the female versions like you do the male version, hehe)
rmoody
500+ Head-Fier
Here is the link for the female version of what Dan uses:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/HR10A-7J-4S%2873%29/HR1598-ND/1095456
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hirose-Connector/HR10A-7J-4S73/?qs=Ux3WWAnHpjAwe7Cpc1eAIg%3D%3D
This is the specific one I used:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HIROSE-HR10A-7J-4S-COMPATIBLE-CONNECTOR-NEW-/322046580108?hash=item4afb78d58c:g:YkwAAOSwDk5T~f4I
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/hirose-electric-co-ltd/HR10A-7J-4S%2873%29/HR1598-ND/1095456
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hirose-Connector/HR10A-7J-4S73/?qs=Ux3WWAnHpjAwe7Cpc1eAIg%3D%3D
This is the specific one I used:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HIROSE-HR10A-7J-4S-COMPATIBLE-CONNECTOR-NEW-/322046580108?hash=item4afb78d58c:g:YkwAAOSwDk5T~f4I
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