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DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread - Page 84

post #1246 of 2235

Can you guys recommend a smallest 3.5mm female plug to be used in a diymod? Basically I want diy a line out from the DAC using this female plug.

 

 

Also has anyone compared the sonic difference between the Toxic silver and the Plussound silver/gold?


Edited by DMinor - 1/23/14 at 5:37pm
post #1247 of 2235
Anyone tried the Neotech wires before? If so, would you recommend it?
post #1248 of 2235
Quote:
Originally Posted by VortexBlast View Post

I just finished making a cable for my T50RPs


I used a Neutrik NTP3RC-B for the headphone end and a ViaBlue T6s Small. Cable is a Mogami Neglex 2534 quad balanced cable.
Now I've got a question, I did this cable without soldering the copper ground shielding to the sleeve but rather I soldered the remaining two cables to the sleeve. Will that provide enough RFI shielding or should I have soldered the ground shielding or is it not necessary?
Had the same question, can anyone knows answer this.
post #1249 of 2235
Quote:
Originally Posted by ben_r_ View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VortexBlast View Post

I just finished making a cable for my T50RPs


I used a Neutrik NTP3RC-B for the headphone end and a ViaBlue T6s Small. Cable is a Mogami Neglex 2534 quad balanced cable.
Now I've got a question, I did this cable without soldering the copper ground shielding to the sleeve but rather I soldered the remaining two cables to the sleeve. Will that provide enough RFI shielding or should I have soldered the ground shielding or is it not necessary?
Had the same question, can anyone knows answer this.

 

That's fine at that length.  No problem at all.

post #1250 of 2235

A 3.5 TRS to 1/4" TS Y-adapter I made for a friend:

 

AppleMark

 

Paracord for the sleeve, neutrik nys series connectors and a bit of heatshrink for the split...  Very flexible. :)

 

UPDATE:  oops.  meant to put this in the gallery thread.  moved it there.  sorry.


Edited by luisdent - 1/24/14 at 10:13pm
post #1251 of 2235

Hi, my extension cable for my IEMs ripped and I wanted to repair it and hopefully shorten the extension cable a few inches. Here's a picture of it:

 
 
Would it still be possible to use the female connector in the picture or would I have to replace that entirely? I've never done this before, but I can solder. Guidance on how best to proceed would be much appreciated, thanks ^^
post #1252 of 2235
Can one sleeve uninsulated cables with paracord to make a braided cable? Or will the cables short?
post #1253 of 2235
Quote:
Originally Posted by VortexBlast View Post

Now I've got a question, I did this cable without soldering the copper ground shielding to the sleeve but rather I soldered the remaining two cables to the sleeve. Will that provide enough RFI shielding or should I have soldered the ground shielding or is it not necessary?
Sorry, meat the question regarding what to do with the shielding in the Star Quad cable. Should it be soldered to the sleeve or cut off.
post #1254 of 2235
Quote:
Originally Posted by ben_r_ View Post


Sorry, meat the question regarding what to do with the shielding in the Star Quad cable. Should it be soldered to the sleeve or cut off.
Your choice, either way will have no effect on the headphone cable.
Edited by TrollDragon - 1/25/14 at 12:05pm
post #1255 of 2235
Quote:
Originally Posted by ben_r_ View Post


Sorry, meat the question regarding what to do with the shielding in the Star Quad cable. Should it be soldered to the sleeve or cut off.

I never use the sleeve, ever.

post #1256 of 2235

I always use it. I like the added strength of the joint between the cable and the connector, though I almost exclusively use Neutrik connectors with chuck strain relief. In a 3 conductor cable like balanced or headphones I use starquad and wire it as indicated by the wire mfg. 2 wire to hot 2 wires to cold shield to ground. Headphones or stereo signal is 2 left 2 right and shield ground. Unless it's a dual entry then I just connect shield at the connector for strength.

post #1257 of 2235

I made a cable out of GEPCO wire based on a recommendation from someone and I don't quite like how it feels. It's almost flexible enough and it's soft, but it's tight around the wires and I can feel them through the casing and I dislike that. 

 

I was wondering if anyone knew how canare and mogami cables felt in terms of how soft the casing is, how flexible it is, and if you can easily feel the wires inside by touching the casing lightly.

post #1258 of 2235

Canare L-4E6s is thicker than the Mogami w2893. Mogami is much more flexible than the Canare, but the Canare isn't too stiff for a cable. I made a cable with the Mogami w2893 the other day and stripped the insulation and the paper wrapped around the wire, and left the white strings to help with microphonics. That cable is about as flexible as a shoelace, it's awesome.

 

 

 

 

I wasn't ever really a fan of leaving the wires visible with the Mogami, but I think it looks good on my cable. I was about to put paracord over it, and then just ended up using clear heat shrink. I like the way it turned out. I guess I just think it looks cheap when someone does it on a hard-wired cable. Idk that's just me.


Edited by cCasper TFG - 1/25/14 at 9:28pm
post #1259 of 2235

Depends on what you're doing.

 

Mogami and Canare both make two sizes of starquad (which is the common wire most people use for cables)

 

Mogami W2534 is a full size 6.0mm OD cable with served shielding and 24awg conductors.

Mogami W2893 is a compact 4.8mm OD cable with served shielding and 26awg conductors.

 

Canare L-4E6S is a full size 6.0mm OD cable with braided shielding and 24awg conductors.

Canare L-4E5C is a compact 4.8mm OD cable with braided sheilding and 26awg conductors.

 

Both companies use very similar PVC jackets with nearly identical texture and suppleness. Mogami's served shielding can cause some twisting issues so be sure to straighten out the cable before working with it, the shielding can cause a permanent twist in the cable which requires retermination to straighten the shield wires out. 

 

If made up some 4' Mogami cables and had to redo them because the served shield was not straight and the cable will never fully straighten until I reterminate it and straighten the shield.

 

Other than that Mogami's served shield is easier to work with as you don't have to unbraid the shield to work with it just untwist.

 

They all feel round and you can not feel the internals as they use thick jackets, even shields and filler between the conductors. They are the best audio cables for transmission of analog audio.

 

Watch out for plenum rated and console cable, often it's thin jacketed with harder jacket for professional in-wall permanent installation and not portable use.

post #1260 of 2235
How do you guys get paracord sleeved cables through a tight connector? I can always get the cable through but the paracord always gets snagged n pulls off the cable as I try to thread it through
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