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Ventus EZ Help! (updated) - Page 4

post #46 of 70

 AVRO -I was trying to put it a bit more subtly by checking    each side of the soldered  connections as the soldering isnt to a "high quality".and there could be many  "HR" joints.

                    But there you go.

                      DUTCH-The terminal block is the small object with holes in it and screws at the top to tighten down the connecting wire.You dont seem to be using it.

                        If the screws have an internal "flap" in them you will need to undo the screws right back before inserting the connecting wire. It has +/- and earth connection.

                           That should be used to join the PS to the Amp.

post #47 of 70
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by duncan1 View Post

 AVRO -I was trying to put it a bit more subtly by checking    each side of the soldered  connections as the soldering isnt to a "high quality".and there could be many  "HR" joints.

                    But there you go.

                      DUTCH-The terminal block is the small object with holes in it and screws at the top to tighten down the connecting wire.You dont seem to be using it.

                        If the screws have an internal "flap" in them you will need to undo the screws right back before inserting the connecting wire. It has +/- and earth connection.

                           That should be used to join the PS to the Amp.


ahh understood thanks.

 

And I know how to solder decently, and I don't think those are burns, I think they are just stray pieces of burnt solder that I haven't cleaned off. I think that the joints are fine, I checked them all on 1 board, and redid the ones that looked even slightly poor, and there is the same sound. I think it might be the regulators, so I will test that. Then i'll check the PS for bad joints, but idk if that could be causing the issue realistically.

post #48 of 70

WTH did you solder the wires to the leads of the screw terminals?

Tin wire, loosen screw, inset wire, tighten screw is about as easy as it gets.

post #49 of 70
Thread Starter 
Because im an idiot lol. The joints in question i resoldered btw. Im now going to fix the regulators, maybe thats the issue. When i used MM to check PS output, it was only 6v, while it should be 15v. Thinking the regulators not being heatsinked properly might be doing that. Will get back to you all, thanks so much every1 for dealing with me and my stupidity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterX View Post

WTH did you solder the wires to the leads of the screw terminals?
Tin wire, loosen screw, inset wire, tighten screw is about as easy as it gets.
post #50 of 70
Quote:
Originally Posted by DutchGFX View Post

 

 

You appear to have left the white backing paper on the Thermal Pad, this needs to be removed and you also need to use the supplied Screw, nut and shoulder washer to attach the regulator to the heatsink.
 

post #51 of 70
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Forte View Post

 

You appear to have left the white backing paper on the Thermal Pad, this needs to be removed and you also need to use the supplied Screw, nut and shoulder washer to attach the regulator to the heatsink.
 


Yeah I did that, and it appears my soldering skills must suck pretty bad, cause it still won't work lol. Well, maybe ill go redo all my solder joints tommorrow morning, maybe that will help.

post #52 of 70

If you are still getting 6V instead of 15V then yes the regulators could be to blame .

                   As they appear to be open metal tag instead of the dearer all plastic construction. then by attaching the  metal tab-DIRECTLY without an INSULATOR  for the screw you are using to attach the reg. to the heatsink then you could be SHORTING out a connection to EARTH..

                       Positive regulator= leg-1-IN  leg-2-earth   leg-3-output

                        Neg regulator= leg-1-earth  leg-2-input   leg-3-output

                         The POS. regulator-if standard-should  nave the metal tab to earth-so that would be okay to just use a metal nut+bolt to tighten it to the heatsink.

                           BUT the NEG regulator has the metal tab connected to the-INPUT-so if you screwed  that onto the heatsink WITHOUT an INSULATING washer you would be shorting the input to earth -Not very good-which would put a S/C onto the rectifier reducing its output.

                               Use your MM to check the tab goes to which leg of the regulators and insulate it

                                  You MUST have been given the parts otherwise the kit is critically short of vital parts.

                                       If as seen it is GLUED to the heatsink VIA the flat insulator thats okay.

                                           But using this type of insulator is never as good as a strong metal bolt through it to tighten it.

                                               Check this out and get back
 

post #53 of 70
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by duncan1 View Post

If you are still getting 6V instead of 15V then yes the regulators could be to blame .

                   As they appear to be open metal tag instead of the dearer all plastic construction. then by attaching the  metal tab-DIRECTLY without an INSULATOR  for the screw you are using to attach the reg. to the heatsink then you could be SHORTING out a connection to EARTH..

                       Positive regulator= leg-1-IN  leg-2-earth   leg-3-output

                        Neg regulator= leg-1-earth  leg-2-input   leg-3-output

                         The POS. regulator-if standard-should  nave the metal tab to earth-so that would be okay to just use a metal nut+bolt to tighten it to the heatsink.

                           BUT the NEG regulator has the metal tab connected to the-INPUT-so if you screwed  that onto the heatsink WITHOUT an INSULATING washer you would be shorting the input to earth -Not very good-which would put a S/C onto the rectifier reducing its output.

                               Use your MM to check the tab goes to which leg of the regulators and insulate it

                                  You MUST have been given the parts otherwise the kit is critically short of vital parts.

                                       If as seen it is GLUED to the heatsink VIA the flat insulator thats okay.

                                           But using this type of insulator is never as good as a strong metal bolt through it to tighten it.

                                               Check this out and get back
 


Yeah I screwed it in now, I cut the tabs a little short, so its a challenge to solder them now, but I have 1 done, and tested my connections on the regulator with MM. One reg is still not soldered so once thats done, hopefully it outputs the right voltage.

 

Also, I am using the terminal blocks now, I feel dumb lol.

post #54 of 70

We have all got to start somewhere and you are honest enough to admit you have a lot learn about electronics.

                    Just either buy some basic books on it or search online for electronics-teach-in.
 

post #55 of 70
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by duncan1 View Post

We have all got to start somewhere and you are honest enough to admit you have a lot learn about electronics.

                    Just either buy some basic books on it or search online for electronics-teach-in.
 


Yeah, after today, if it doesn't work, i'm going to try something else for now. I don't see how insufficient power to the amp boards could distort the sound so badly, but, i'm going to try to jumper the regulators since it doesnt seam to be working so well. Still only getting 6v.

post #56 of 70

Logically you are right .Bypassing the regulators is a means of seeing if the  amp section is working.

                                    The only problem is that the DC supply from the rectifier will be more than  -15V as 4 or more volts is required for the regulators to function correctly therefore the output voltage will be in the 20s .Does the spec. Of the amp say it can cope with the increased voltage?

                           You also have to take into account the current drain of the amp and fit high wattage resistors in series  with the PS output to help limit this and keep the voltage down.

                               One in the Pos rail and one in the Neg rail.As now you will have the full current capability of the PS applied to the amps

                                  The music signal that is inputted to the amp cant be any higher -peak level] than the voltage rails that's why split-rail voltage supplies were introduced.Allowing double the signal to be applied -IF  the amp is designed for it. Think of a sine wave with flattened tops and bottoms.

                                      So if the voltage is -6V +/-=12V that is the  PEAK ac signal that can be used without the signal being -"cut-off" at the top and bottom giving bad distortion.

                                     your amps circuit is optimized for +/- 15V so it will not function  at this reduced level if at all.[could sound quiet-etc]

                                        Best of luck -hope it works okay-but there will be a lot more noise/distortion introduced from the PS but if you are right  it would work.
 

post #57 of 70
It's not like I predicted this or anything...

My guess is that you cooked something by overheating the board.
post #58 of 70
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by n_maher View Post

It's not like I predicted this or anything...

My guess is that you cooked something by overheating the board.

Cooked something on the amp boards or the PSU?

And just to vconfirm, i check the voltage being outputed by putting the MM on the DC+ and DC-, and it should read 15v about correct?
post #59 of 70

When checking the output from the full_wave rectifier -before the regulators on your MM then pos. lead to pos terminal- neg lead to -EARTH- This will give you a voltage over 20V positive.

                               Pos lead to negative on the rectifier -neg lead to-EARTH will give you- minus over -20V.

                                    Testing straight across the Pos/Neg will give you DOUBLE the voltage.

                                        Remember this is the output from the RECTIFIER.-The rectifier is BEFORE the regulators.

                                           As you have said you only get -6V from the OUTPUT of the regulators.

post #60 of 70
Quote:
Originally Posted by DutchGFX View Post


Yeah I did that, and it appears my soldering skills must suck pretty bad, cause it still won't work lol. Well, maybe ill go redo all my solder joints tommorrow morning, maybe that will help.

 

 

There are some excellent 'how to' solder videos on youtube.   They helped me when I built my cmoy.

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