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Aune T1 USB Tube DAC+ SS Amp Discussion Thread ***See first post for FAQ--Updated on 02/14/15*** - Page 299

post #4471 of 8012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kursah View Post
 

I'm interested in a $30 bassy tube. I went to purchase a T1 a few moments ago and there's only 220v left. I can get a 110v off of Amazon for $160...I assume after replacing the psu and whatever other components I'll be into it that much total. Hmm...

Got mine on Amazon. Glad I did. The first one had one side that would go in and out when I pressed the volume knob. Return was easy. Ordered another and replacement has been perfect. 

post #4472 of 8012
Quote:
Originally Posted by arcorob View Post

Hope this helps...I know people rave about ampere, but I have 3 now and not as impressed. Maybe they are better with headphones but with speakers (towers) they sound a bit dull.
I would have to say that yeah, they're better for headphones than speakers. They probably sound dull due to the slight treble roll off which is necessary for some headphones. smily_headphones1.gif
post #4473 of 8012
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrEleventy View Post


I would have to say that yeah, they're better for headphones than speakers. They probably sound dull due to the slight treble roll off which is necessary for some headphones. smily_headphones1.gif


Now that makes sense...because when I listen to my tubes through speakers, the are perfect ..but through the AUNE headphone amp...YUCK...I am NOT impressed with that portion AT ALL.

 

I am going to try an experiment tomorrow. RCA out to a Bravo II headphone amp I have (and like) with a sweet Mulllard Long plate 12AU7..see if its better...starting to think it was my headphones (Senn HD280 Pro's)

post #4474 of 8012

Anyone ever compare the Aune T1 DAC with HRT Music Streamer II+ or Centrance DACport LX perhaps?

post #4475 of 8012
Quote:
Originally Posted by arcorob View Post


Now that makes sense...because when I listen to my tubes through speakers, the are perfect ..but through the AUNE headphone amp...YUCK...I am NOT impressed with that portion AT ALL.

I am going to try an experiment tomorrow. RCA out to a Bravo II headphone amp I have (and like) with a sweet Mulllard Long plate 12AU7..see if its better...starting to think it was my headphones (Senn HD280 Pro's)
Agreed, I never did like the headphone out of the aune for headphones. I used the rca out into a Objective2 and it was tons better. Then upgraded to a darkvoice 336se. Had the same setup for 9 months running with no plans on changing.
post #4476 of 8012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kursah View Post
 

I'm interested in a $30 bassy tube. I went to purchase a T1 a few moments ago and there's only 220v left. I can get a 110v off of Amazon for $160...I assume after replacing the psu and whatever other components I'll be into it that much total. Hmm...

 

You can find them all day long (the newer version) for $145-$150 on Ebay and they got mine to me in 3 days.

 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121237359749?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

 

This is the person who sold me mine, do make an offer and offer him $144 and he'll take it (that is what he sold me mine for).

 

 

Quote:
 I assume after replacing the psu and whatever other components I'll be into it that much total. Hmm...

 

Why are you going to replace the PSU?  Also you only need to replace the secondary caps for sure, the primaries if you wanted to.  If you go for high quality caps like I did you are looking at around $20 for those 4 caps if you go with like ELNA Silmic IIs'


Edited by NCSUZoSo - 1/30/14 at 6:41am
post #4477 of 8012

this are little fatter then Lelons 

 

 

here is link for the caps

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=URZ1E332MHDvirtualkey64700000virtualkey647-URZ1E332MHD

 

 

and the other two I replaced earlier 

 

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=UVZ1V471MPDvirtualkey64700000virtualkey647-UVZ1V471MPD

 


Edited by spacequeen7 - 1/30/14 at 10:25am
post #4478 of 8012

The outer surface of an electrolytic capacitor is not a conductive material (except the top), so it should not matter at all if they are touching.  There are plenty of DIY projects I have seen where they have a row of 2-4 capacitors and they are all touching on their sides.  The main thing is to solder it like you did the secondaries so the leads have no possible way of touching each other, that is where your problem would come in.

post #4479 of 8012
Quote:
Originally Posted by spacequeen7 View Post
 

this are little fatter then Lelons 

 

 

here is link for the caps

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=URZ1E332MHDvirtualkey64700000virtualkey647-URZ1E332MHD

 

 

and the other two I replaced earlier 

 

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=UVZ1V471MPDvirtualkey64700000virtualkey647-UVZ1V471MPD

 


Nice...have you listened yet ? Started break-in ?

post #4480 of 8012

yeap ..:L3000:

post #4481 of 8012

Well well...received two AUNE related packages today...

 

1 - Smokey Joe GE tube...lOL  its a spare because they are that good...and this one sounds awesome...

 

1 package of ELna Cerafine caps - I ordered weeks ago - didn;t know it was from china...If they are fakes, they are damn nice looking ones...

 

Side note..also received caps for my amp...Nichicons..They are BLUE now...hmmm...

post #4482 of 8012
Quote:
Originally Posted by arcorob View Post
 

Well well...received two AUNE related packages today...

 

1 - Smokey Joe GE tube...lOL  its a spare because they are that good...and this one sounds awesome...

 

1 package of ELna Cerafine caps - I ordered weeks ago - didn;t know it was from china...If they are fakes, they are damn nice looking ones...

 

Side note..also received caps for my amp...Nichicons..They are BLUE now...hmmm...

 

Very nice!

 

Coil talked me out of Cerafine label and went with SILMIC II instead for the secondary caps, but I am still putting my red label Cerafines on the headphone board with Nichicon FWs for the primaries (all come in at 25mm height).

 

These are the Cerafine Caps I got: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171067285270?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

 

Please tell me yours are different and I didn't pay for "vintage" Cerafine caps that are really not odd balls.  I really like the red color :wink: and I know Cerafine caps from building guitar effect pedals.  Take a look at that link and tell me if yours look the same or how they do look.  They are probably black and gold right?  The reds are supposed to be a "well known" good capacitor for audio usage, possibly rivaling the SILMIC II caps.

 

 

Also today I decided to bite on a tube I have been eyeing for a little while, a Siemens E88CC 6922 CCA A9.  This is supposed to be in the top 5 best sounding 6992 tubes available according to which reviews you read.

 

Has anyone ever tried replacing the BB opamp?  I know it is surface mounted, but some of us (me ;)) are able to desolder and solder surface mount components.

 

One other thing, what is the general consensus on the Novib Socket Savers?  To the people who own them, do you feel like it was money well worth spent if you are rolling tubes pretty regular?  I do agree that Chinese socket is very tight and some NOS tubes don't *favor* it much.  Compared to the sockets on my Fender Blues Jr. the socket on the Aune T1 is extremely tight and hard to remove/insert a tube in comparison.


Edited by NCSUZoSo - 1/31/14 at 1:35am
post #4483 of 8012

I keep losing posts

post #4484 of 8012
Quote:
Originally Posted by arcorob View Post
 

I keep losing posts

 

You need to use more heat on your soldering iron  :beerchug:

 

 

BTW guys, I decided to "go all out" and get the NOVIB Socket Saver© due to how tight the socket is with NOS tubes.

post #4485 of 8012

I really like Socket Saver but I think the price could be lower and I agree that stock socket just blows -way to tight ..it's so tight it will make squeaking noise 

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