kvtaco17
Headphoneus Supremus
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2013
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I should rewire mine with 750kcmil... I could use scrap from work LMAO
I've stripped 4/0 chunks for the copper before... I'd love to have your 750 scraps.I should rewire mine with 750kcmil... I could use scrap from work LMAO
I've stripped 4/0 chunks for the copper before... I'd love to have your 750 scraps.
I just love wire you have to cut with a Milwaukee Sawzall.
The BRIMAR date code is "4F2", where 4 equals week, F equals month, and 2 equals year, so the year of manufacture could be 1952, 1962 or even 1972. However, with a D-shaped getter, I don't think it is as late as 1972. On the other hand, I am not sure this tube was even available in 1952, so my best guess is 1962.
The photos show what must be experimental CV2212s with 2F2 date codes – and HG military date codes. That's July 1952. This agrees nicely enough with June from 2F2. Also note that, like your tube, the tubes have no type codes that usually go together with date codes. They do have the Footscray [military] factory code FB. Otherwise I've only seen Rochester codes, earlier FD and later AD.
The valve was certainly around by 1953 but not released by 1951 so 1952 is a real possibility.
Comparing my tube to those, as best I can tell from the photo, the construction appears to be identical. Also, I overlooked two more characters printed in red on the back of the tube: A 3.
The connections look good to me. As to the adequacy of 18awg or 22awg, someone else will have to weigh in.....
According to the chart #18 will handle 16A. You could probably get away with a 20 or 22 AWG but if your power supply is fused at 12 or 15A, anything lower than 18 would glow red and burn before the fuse blew.
So I would use the 18AWG just incase you ever had a short it would pop the fuse in the power supply.
If the powersupplys fuse is replaceable, you could put an 6 or 8A in place of what is there and use lower gauge wire.
18 is not that bad to work with so go with it, safety first.
AWG wire chart.
www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
The valve was certainly around by 1953 but not released by 1951 so 1952 is a real possibility.
Looks like you might have a very early 13D3 there. (I don't know what the red characters purport to tell.)
Hi i luvmusic2,
There are actually 2x2 adapters. Here is the first one that allows you to put an octal tube into the Little Dot MKIII.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221065459067?_trksid=p2055120.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
However, the decorative rings around the tube sockets do not allow these adapters to go inside the socket since the adapters are too wide to fit inside the ring. For this we need an extender or socket saver:
This set fits inside the ring. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-9-PIN-vaccum-TUBE-SOCKET-SAVER-FOR-12AX7-12AU7-ECC82-ECC83-tube-audio-amps-/251350602537?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3a85a9d329
Spending around $35 incl shipping for these four adapters allows you to use any 6SN7 tube (and 6SL7) in your LD MKIII. These tubes outclass the 6N6P family of tubes and to boot are plentiful and very inexpensive.
There is a lot of hype about the 6SN7 tubes, and certain types command very high prices. IMHO I would not bother with these but instead buy any garden variety Sylvania or RCA tube. Just plug them in and enjoy delicious, full bodied sound! In addition, these tubes are well built and are supposed to last a long time.
Another added bonus I noticed is that my LD amp does not even break out in a sweat with these tubes and the amp is cool to the touch. It has to be added though that I am using another 6SN7 as driver with it's own power supply. The tubes run hot, but the amp is not even warm.
And then there is the ephemeral Blue Light......