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Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide - Page 382

post #5716 of 10501
Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post
 

I just received my russian 6AS7 and playing it with LD 1 for now  just incase i blow something up. it works but i'm worried about the  tube base it's wobbly (both tubes i don't know if these is normal for these type of tube)it looks SEXY.

 

 

 

Hey, I luv.

 

WELL DONE for trying the 6AS7 - hope nothing goes...bang?...I sure do like the look of those tubes. I wondered some time ago if they could be used in our LDs...let's hope artsi's concerns can be overcome by these VERY versatile machines...are there any early warning signs of resistors becoming unhappy...ANYONE?...

 

But, of course, we are (all?) dying to know if TWO used as power tubes are going to be safe! Is this on your menu at all? - "you're a braver man than I, Gunga Din"!

 

Keep up the good work...

post #5717 of 10501
Quote:
Originally Posted by mab1376 View Post
 

Loving these C3gS tubes!

 

Finally got the shields removed thanks to Hypnos1's guide.

 

 

Hi mab.

 

WELL DONE!  See what you can do?...DIY adapters next!!...

 

You don't know how happy I am that you are loving these tubes - after all my build-up, I would have been mortified to hear I was deluding myself (and possibly leading CollectoR13 - and yourself -  "up the garden path"!). I can now sleep easy...

 

BTW. I have noticed the 7N7 has an almost identical metal base, and it appears the reason is so it can be connected to ground in the socket, to help combat hum...interesting, no?

 

Your LD is now looking good...not to mention sounding eh? Now all you need is a nice pair of "coke bottle" 6AS7Gs or 6080s behind them and...WOW...or is that BANG?! We must follow I luvmusic's progress very carefully, methinks...

 

Happy listening.

post #5718 of 10501
Quote:
Originally Posted by hypnos1 View Post
 

 

Hey, I luv.

 

WELL DONE for trying the 6AS7 - hope nothing goes...bang?...I sure do like the look of those tubes. I wondered some time ago if they could be used in our LDs...let's hope artsi's concerns can be overcome by these VERY versatile machines...are there any early warning signs of resistors becoming unhappy...ANYONE?...

 

But, of course, we are (all?) dying to know if TWO used as power tubes are going to be safe! Is this on your menu at all? - "you're a braver man than I, Gunga Din"!

 

Keep up the good work...

So far so good the LD get a little warmer  compared to using 6SN7 that is all i've been using it for few hours now(continuous).With LD 1 it sound really good with huge soundstage but i have to turned the Volume knob a little bit higher than my usual listening level   have not try with my LD MK III yet i'am really enjoying this with LD 1.are there any early warning signs of resistors becoming unhappy?My answer is i don't know what to look for so can't really answer that besides the amp gets a little warm nothing else unusual happening with my amp.IMO  each hour passing by it's sounding better and better.Using it as a power tubes yes i consider that option i'am curious how it will sound and besides doesn't it look SEXY.About the Resistor if i only know which one i need to replaced i might swap it with better one.

post #5719 of 10501

Hi I luvmusic 2,

 

When you say that the tubes are wobbly, do you mean that the glass envelope is loose or that they don't seat firmly in the sockets? Did you notice if you need to turn up the volume substantially more than with other tubes?

post #5720 of 10501

Hi Gibosi,

 

Many thanks for the wiring diagram using the Vectors!

 

I remember from my 6AK5 days that the Sylvania Gold tube sounded exactly the same as the Jan tube without the gold pins. There was a big difference in price though.

post #5721 of 10501
Early warning signs of resistors going bad is a distinct burning smell just before they let go.

You would have to take the bottom off the LD I+ and see if any of them on the board are too hot to touch. They can glow red for a while before they open, so a blister warning is advised. biggrin.gif
post #5722 of 10501
Quote:
Originally Posted by mordy View Post
 

Hi I luvmusic 2,

 

When you say that the tubes are wobbly, do you mean that the glass envelope is loose or that they don't seat firmly in the sockets? Did you notice if you need to turn up the volume substantially more than with other tubes?

Hi Mordy,

    Yes the glass is loose/wobbly i can actually twist the base and it will moved a bit. luckily the glass doesn't moved up that's probably a bad thing isn't it.I need to moved the volume knob a little bit higher than my listening level from 9 o'clock to 10 o'clock.

post #5723 of 10501
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

Early warning signs of resistors going bad is a distinct burning smell just before they let go.

You would have to take the bottom off the LD I+ and see if any of them on the board are too hot to touch. They can glow red for a while before they open, so a blister warning is advised. biggrin.gif

THANK YOU TD!Remember i used my finger as a thermometer for my blue amp so i know how it will feel:atsmile:

post #5724 of 10501

No burning smell or no discolouring Resistors or maybe not yet it's only been  running for 5 hours so maybe it's a good sign.

 

No more Vector test sockets for LD 1.


Edited by i luvmusic 2 - 4/3/14 at 5:36pm
post #5725 of 10501

Hi Mordy,

   I'am using the 6AS7 tube on my LD 1 tomorrow i will try it with MK III so i will let you know how it works with that amp and see how far i need to turn the volume knob.I think you have MK III right?

post #5726 of 10501
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post
 

 

These look great! What kind of glue did you use to reattach the metal bases?

 

Honestly didn't use any, just connected them into the adapter and it stays in there fine.

post #5727 of 10501
Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post
 

Hi Mordy,

    Yes the glass is loose/wobbly i can actually twist the base and it will moved a bit. luckily the glass doesn't moved up that's probably a bad thing isn't it.I need to moved the volume knob a little bit higher than my listening level from 9 o'clock to 10 o'clock.


Nice work on the bottom of the LD I+!

 

 

Wobbly tube base... This is from the Antique Radio Forums on how to fix the problem which a lot of them there use.

 

Quote: http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1233870#p1233870
 
I work a 50/50 mixture of Elmer's Glue and water into the tube base. This works well! It dries in about a day, and the beauty is that is comes off with water, so if you have a bit of excess, it wipes off easily.
It's also just about invisible after you do the job...

-Tom

:beerchug:

post #5728 of 10501
Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post
 

 

 

Looking at the bottom of your LD I see the yellow wire seems to join the filament power on both sockets together.

If I can get you to take the cover off of it's transformer and see if there is a label on it, that should tell us how much power the transformer provides for the heaters.

 

Post a picture of the label on the transformer with the Chinese writing and Voltages if you would.

 

Thanks!

post #5729 of 10501
Quote:
Originally Posted by mordy View Post
 

Hi Gibosi,

 

Many thanks for the wiring diagram using the Vectors!

 

I remember from my 6AK5 days that the Sylvania Gold tube sounded exactly the same as the Jan tube without the gold pins. There was a big difference in price though.

 

You are very welcome.

 

I never had a Sylvania 6AK5 with gold pins, so I can't say how it compared to the JAN tube. But I have seen Sylvania Gold Brand 2C51/5670 mil-spec tubes both with and without gold pins, and I wouldn't be surprised if they were in fact the exact same tube. And further, I would guess that all of 1950's Sylvanias are very similar, if not identical. That said, since I found the gold pin version for only $10, I figure why not? :)

post #5730 of 10501

Hi I luvmusic 2,

 

I bought two octal tubes that the glass moved inside the bakelite bottom. My friend the retired electronics engineer took a little crazyglue and applied it in two-three spots with a little brush that came with the glue (supermarket brand).

 

So far it is holding fine and no problems, and the repair took a minute.

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