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[SripBoard Design] Starving Student Millett Hybrid Vacum Tube Amp - Page 4

post #46 of 269
Thread Starter 

Anything on my Perfboard design? i will make the adjustments with the new components. Any BOM available for the 12AU7 version?

post #47 of 269
Thread Starter 

Stripboard version:

Note that the orange pad is the 4th pin of the tube.

Also, i realise i forgot to add the "Optional" components...

Long jumper might be replaced by cables.

By the way, how big are the Caps? i always draw them small but...

 

I would be nice if someone checked it, maybe after i add the missing components.

Screen shot 2011-07-21 at 7.49.16 PM.png

post #48 of 269
Thread Starter 

V3.1:

Screen shot 2011-07-21 at 8.07.49 PM.png

post #49 of 269

you may have to work on spacing of components. if you use wima caps for C2 and C4 in the original schematic, there leads wont fit in that configuration. also depending on what kind of electrolytic caps you use you may need more room. i used big 100v (digikey didnt have 63v and i wasnt comfortable with 50v) nichicon muse kz's on mine and the leads are fairly far apart. same for resistors.

 

its good to plan your build out like this, but im sure you could draw the schematic from memory by nowsmily_headphones1.gif

my advice is just go for it. just check your work as you go.

post #50 of 269
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kchapdaily View Post

you may have to work on spacing of components. if you use wima caps for C2 and C4 in the original schematic, there leads wont fit in that configuration. also depending on what kind of electrolytic caps you use you may need more room. i used big 100v (digikey didnt have 63v and i wasnt comfortable with 50v) nichicon muse kz's on mine and the leads are fairly far apart. same for resistors.

 

its good to plan your build out like this, but im sure you could draw the schematic from memory by nowsmily_headphones1.gif

my advice is just go for it. just check your work as you go.

 

 

 

Hehe Pretty much

 

Thanks for those kind words, im working on this a lot because im new to electronics and i want things to work. The High school theoretical stuff is now very useful but never taught i would have to design boards so early, not that this is a complex design but coming from a Cmoy where it is Step by Step... A picture of your build to see the size of the Caps would be good, im a visual guy you see.

 

I wish someone would take the time to check my board but it is asking a bit much i guess... if this works i will make a tutorial to help people like me who wants to make a SSHM but hate messy wiring.

 

On another note, I made a BOM because i could not find one for the 12AU7 version.

 

1/4 Watts Metal Film Resistors:

 

2: 1K

7: 2K

2: 33K

2: 50K

2: 220K

2: 390K

 

Capacitors (need help finding what kind of caps):

 

4: 0.22uF

2: 470uF

2: 680uF

 

MOSFET:

 

2: IRF510

 

PSU:

 

1: 48V 0.38A (need help finding one, i know the Cisco one eBayLink was popular back then but what about now)

 

Other:

1: 50K Stereo Potentiometer

2: RCA Jacks

1: Switch

1: Power Jack

1: 6.5mm Phone Jack

 

Thanks


Edited by TestSubject - 7/21/11 at 7:21pm
post #51 of 269

I'm not sure there's an alternative for the PSU, unless you can find something that fits the specifications (48V, 0.38A or above). The Cisco PSU is still cheap on eBay, so it's pretty hard to beat. There is the issue of the DAC-killing thing, though, which is most likely the fault of the PSU.

post #52 of 269

ill put some pictures of mine up tomorrow. its currently caseless im still working on that.

 

as for the capacitors, generally your going to want the .22uf caps to be wima's http://beezar.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=73

 

the other values are going to be electrolytics. the nichicon muse es or kz caps sound great and are widely used for this amp.

 

i use the cisco power supply, but my amp uses 19j6 tubes.

 

post #53 of 269
Quote:
Originally Posted by TestSubject View Post

V3.1:

Screen shot 2011-07-21 at 8.07.49 PM.png



Do you intend to use this exact kind of stripboard? If so, then all of your caps are shorted out except C1's. Perhaps you could begin by focusing on establishing a strip in the middle of the board for ground, and the 2 outermost strips for power(B+). Be flexible. If you need 2 strips for ground then use what you need.

 

 

If you study the schematic, you will notice that there are no more than 3 or 4 items attached to any single node, excluding ground.

 

 


Edited by digger945 - 7/21/11 at 7:59pm
post #54 of 269
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by digger945 View Post





Do you intend to use this exact kind of stripboard? If so, then all of your caps are shorted out except C1's. Perhaps you could begin by focusing on establishing a strip in the middle of the board for ground, and the 2 outermost strips for power(B+). Be flexible. If you need 2 strips for ground then use what you need.

 

 

If you study the schematic, you will notice that there are no more than 3 or 4 items attached to any single node, excluding ground.

 

 

Well no, you cant see because it is under the caps, but the strip i cut in between like all the horizontal resistors.

 

Thanks a lot for having a look at my design, if anything else is wrong please point it out.

 

EDIT: Sorry, but with all that copy and past (not very good version of diylc) the marking on the resistor and caps are wrong, R1 is not the schematic R1 for exemple. I will fix it soon.

 

Changed opacity of the caps so you can see:

Screen shot 2011-07-22 at 5.30.37 AM.png

 

 


Edited by TestSubject - 7/21/11 at 8:37pm
post #55 of 269

 

 

 

 

 

I generally prefer NOT to waste too much time thinking about perf-board layouts until the parts are in my hands. Nothing ever fits the way I think it will if I really plan it out. For example none of the caps on your board have adequate room for leads or bodies.

 

None of the part numbers match from schematic to layout. (i started typing this before you edited that in.)

 

No connections to stuff off of the board are marked. Demerit. 

 

R6 on the lower half of the board does not connect to the junction of R3/R4 like it does on the top half. 

 

R4 in the middle of the board looks like the gate stopper resistor for the mosfet. The gate stopper should ideally be soldered as close to the mosfet as possible - much better to save some board space and air-wire it with the body of the resistor right up against the mosfet's pin. 

 

Why are there 2 sets of connections below R2? Im guessing these are for the various parts of the tube (top plate, middle grid, bottom cathode), if so its much better to solder the various parts of the tube together at the tube socket rather than using double the wire. If your careful about it point to point work can be very beautiful.

 

Is the left R4 (thats the R4 near the left edge of the board, not left channel) the tube grid stopper resistor in the improved schematic? Much better to solder it directly to the tube socket.

 

It looks like all 3 connections to the mosfets are on the board. You will not (I seriously hope not anyways) be putting the mosfet directly on the board - feel free to put those connections anywhere you want. This applies to the doubled-up tube connections too. 

 

The C3 caps look like output caps. They are connected to the gate of the mosfet, not the source. 

 

If you rotate the c3 caps 90* so the output is on the bottom of the board rather than on a horizontal like now you can save yourself the trouble of cutting a few traces and adding jumpers


Edited by nikongod - 7/21/11 at 10:16pm
post #56 of 269
Thread Starter 

Sorry i have been busy lately,

 

Here my new version. V3.3

Screen shot 2011-07-25 at 7.14.28 PM.png

post #57 of 269

Looks very interesting, TestSubject.

 

I plan on making a pcb for my own build, but if that doesn't pan out I'll try the protoboard route.

post #58 of 269
Thread Starter 

@ NikonGod, Thanks a lot! 

 

@Zammykoo Well hope that my layout will help you if you choose the Protoboard way.

 

Here is V3.4:

Screen shot 2011-07-25 at 11.57.20 PM.png

 

Hope to get building soon!

post #59 of 269

As a quick note, as nikongod said, you may have trouble fitting your capacitors onto a stripboard like that. I would first pick out the caps you're going to use (or better, buy them first) and look at the datasheets so you can see what their lead spacing is and plan/make changes accordingly.

post #60 of 269
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aflac View Post

As a quick note, as nikongod said, you may have trouble fitting your capacitors onto a stripboard like that. I would first pick out the caps you're going to use (or better, buy them first) and look at the datasheets so you can see what their lead spacing is and plan/make changes accordingly.


Buying this week.

 

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