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ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod

post #1 of 798
Thread Starter 

Hi guys!


I just got my M50's (coil cable) yesterday, and I'm slowly loving them more and more.


This coil cable is a little too long, a bit heavy and annoying, esp. for portability. So I will be using the last 10cm off the original cable towards the 3.5mm jack just before the coil starts, soldering it to the driver, using the same config as stock. This will be handy as I can plug in my SGS headset controls here, perfect remote control and mic positioning... I've ordered a custom made cable 1m 3.5mm male to female ext. from AudioSpares for listening elsewhere.


If I did this, would it create microphonic noise, which I definitely don't want as it'll be portable. Would it make a difference if the cable coming out from the cup was male/female? Would the SQ change?


Thanks in advance

Edited by meizumintyboi - 5/11/11 at 5:04pm
post #2 of 798
Thread Starter 


Well no one helped me here... So I went out and did it myself:


My M50 mod and DIY Neutrik terminated cables:

ATH-M50 Removable Neutrik


I used the Lumberg 3.5mm female chassis for the left ear cup hole, which I made bigger by using a file.

Lumberg 3.5mm female chassis

Works really well, the Lumberg chassis has a good lock onto the 3.5mm plug and doesn't come out unless a considerable amount of force is used.

I filled in the gaps with clear silicone, after about 12 hours it set, and holds the chassis strongly in place with some flex when inserting/removing cables.

Edited by meizumintyboi - 6/15/11 at 12:47pm
post #3 of 798
Thread Starter 


Edited by meizumintyboi - 6/15/11 at 12:47pm
post #4 of 798
Thread Starter 


Edited by meizumintyboi - 6/15/11 at 12:47pm
post #5 of 798
Looks good. I think you could have done a slightly better job with the silicone adhesive as its all over the 3.5mm chassis in the picture. I am about to do a similar mod to my AKG K518 so will post some pics when I am finished!

Good Effort!

post #6 of 798
Thread Starter 

yeah it was hard to keep the silicone tidy, I'm re-doing the mod later when my new iron comes through the post as my one died :(. hopefully it will be a bit tidier now I've had a go at some modding :D

post #7 of 798
Originally Posted by meizumintyboi View Post

yeah it was hard to keep the silicone tidy, I'm re-doing the mod later when my new iron comes through the post as my one died :(. hopefully it will be a bit tidier now I've had a go at some modding :D

I had a go at modding the AKG K518.  Added a detachable cable mod.  Have a look here.



post #8 of 798

I've been on planning to do this to my M50's, as it would greatly increase it's portability. After a lot of hesitation and experimenting, I did it. It's my first DIY project, so that's why I was hesitant. I actually couldn't get the wires to tin, so I couldn't use these for about a week while I tried to find what went wrong. I'm happy with the final product though, and I've discovered how fun DIY can be (and frustrating, lol).


detachable m50 cable3.JPG


detachable m50 cable1.JPG


detachable m50 cable4.JPG


I'm using aiaiai's straight cable. Now these cans are much more portable. Yay!

post #9 of 798

Looks great! wish I could do that to mine

post #10 of 798
Thread Starter 

dude v. jealous, much better job than me... which chassis did u use?


well I just modified the mod, pushed right in with a washer on the outside, this is the best I've got.. also added some cut top old socks on, less sweaty, only slight leakage more, but not as bad as the DT250 pads, sound sig hasn't changed either, as I'm still using the m50 pads and foam.





Edited by meizumintyboi - 6/25/11 at 9:58am
post #11 of 798

Haha, thanks a lot man! I used a Philmore 504K. It looks identical to yours. You cleaned yours up really well. I like the washer. It makes the jack look more robust. How did you put socks on your pads? Got a picture? I actually prefer the sound sig with the DT250 pads (I found the highs to be piercing sometimes with the stock pads). I'm interested in your sock mod though for future headphone mods. I hate sweaty pads.

post #12 of 798
Thread Starter 

Yeah your chassis looks exactly the same.

Very simple mod, just on a trial basis got a pair of old socks, cut the tops off, with a bit of trial and error to find the best length.





Works nicely, sound sig is pretty much the same, not a lot of leakage, most importantly not sweaty ears!


Next thing to do it to put on some fresh socks with double sided tape.

post #13 of 798

Hi Guys!!


Really amazing Mods out there, congratulation!!


I am about to do the same and already ordered/got some of my customization parts. I am still wondering how to safely attach my 3,5mm chassis with

no chance for it to come out while detaching/attaching the male plug.


Are you able to post some pictures of your phones inner life? Just to get an idea?





post #14 of 798

Take a look at the picture of the jack in the second post. See the part with the vertical ridges near the top? That screws off. On the M50's you should be able to put that top part through the hole where the cable usually goes, and then screw the ring back onto the jack from the outside of the cup. This secures it from coming loose. Sorry if that was confusing. I don't have any pictures, because I borrowed a camera to take those. I don't have a camera for the mean time.

post #15 of 798

Thanks a lot! I didn't notice the screwing off part before. I think i'll return my chassis because i wasn't able to find a nut fitting on it. In addition the lumberg one is much cheaper than my current one :D


Is there something what has to be considered when putting the chassis between the 2 plastic bolts. (Where the cable originally wraps around, seen here:)

Or will it just fit nicely between them?


Edited by mraudio - 6/29/11 at 11:51am
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