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Audeze LCD-2 Impressions Thread - Page 450

post #6736 of 9684
Ye
Quote:
Originally Posted by chillaxing View Post


Let me get this right.

You bought a pair of used lcd-2 manufactured in 2011?

When you received the headphones, there was something wrong with the left-side driver?

you think the problem is from the cables?

Am I getting this right?


If so, contact the seller that you picked up from.

Get a new cable to test.  Maybe a member that is around you can help.

if the driver is still acting up after the cable change, i would try to get a refund because he sold you a faulty set of headphones.
Yea i am a bit too blur after few drinks. Thanks for summarize for me haha
post #6737 of 9684
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilCox View Post
 

 

Same here.  Seems that the headband was designed before they decided to angle the drivers.  If you un-tilt the drivers so they are parallel to your head, the headband lays flat.  The forward tilt changes the geometry so that only the back edge of the headband makes contact with your head. 

 

Thanks for the response.  I did notice that the headband flattens out as the drivers are rotated, but I did not consider that the drivers were not angled at one time.  That's very interesting.  If that's the case, then I'd consider that to be a pretty big oversight on the part of Audeze, and certainly not something I'd expect on $1,000+ headphones.  Are all of the LCD's (2, 3, etc.) like this?

post #6738 of 9684
Quote:
Originally Posted by wildwood88 View Post

Hey guys , I just bought a second hand lcd2 rec2 for 2011.... And I found out the left side is softer than right side and its annoy me.... But I am not sure is because of the cable or what.... And not sure am I thinking too much? What should I do? So I need to send it back to audeze? I am living in Singapore and I doubt how many months I have to wait

 

If you think that there is an issue with the cable, you can test by plugging the L connector into the R driver and vice-versa.  If the problem switches sides (follows the cable), then the cable is likely bad.  If the imbalance persists unchanged after switching the side of the cable, then it's likely not the cable.

post #6739 of 9684

I've had a problem with the cups not turning all the way to cover my ears with my rev.1's. I found the reason - too loose screws (the ones that connect the height adjustment rods). No wonder the cups didn't turn, those screws were digging into the wood! I'm not too picky about these kinds of things, but I hope I'd noticed sooner what's going on. 

 

Here's a photo of the damage.

post #6740 of 9684
Same thing happened to me. The headband on the LCDs, while nice material and cool looking, is perhaps one of the worst on the market all the way around... and I'm a fanboy. They need to step it up.
post #6741 of 9684

Yeah, the physical design of LCD-2 needs work. They still seem use the same "loose screw" design that my rev.1's have. I can't think of another headphone that connects the headband with purposely loose screws, or anything else really.

 

My headband is of the old variety, not so nice with the exposed soft-foam padding.

post #6742 of 9684
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter78 View Post
 

 

Thanks for the response.  I did notice that the headband flattens out as the drivers are rotated, but I did not consider that the drivers were not angled at one time.  That's very interesting.  If that's the case, then I'd consider that to be a pretty big oversight on the part of Audeze, and certainly not something I'd expect on $1,000+ headphones.  Are all of the LCD's (2, 3, etc.) like this?

 

I believe so.

post #6743 of 9684

I'm officially done with my Schiit Lyr, I'm pretty sure it has destroyed one of the the driver of my LCD-2's for the third time, have changed my using habits each time, doesn't seem to matter. So that's another $560 it's going to cost me to get them repaired. This amp has now cost me an extra grand to use.

post #6744 of 9684
Quote:
Originally Posted by llama_egg View Post
 

I'm officially done with my Schiit Lyr, I'm pretty sure it has destroyed one of the the driver of my LCD-2's for the third time, have changed my using habits each time, doesn't seem to matter. So that's another $560 it's going to cost me to get them repaired. This amp has now cost me an extra grand to use.

Sorry to hear your LCDs are damaged. What is it about the amp or how you use the combo that is destroying them?

post #6745 of 9684
Quote:
Originally Posted by hodgjy View Post
 

Sorry to hear your LCDs are damaged. What is it about the amp or how you use the combo that is destroying them?

 

It seems to be because they lack a relay (I think that's what you call it). I managed to figure out that's what caused it last time I had to get them repaired off of warranty, I use to always keep them plugged in when I turned them on and off. So learned my lesson and made to always keep them unplugged when turning on and off the amp, but this time I walked away with them running for a couple minutes, came back and suddenly no audio out the right side. Swapped the cables around to make sure, and audio is definitely only coming out the one side. No idea how it even happened this time, but considering this is the exact same issue I've had the last two times I'm pretty damn sure it's my Lyr.

 

I'm seriously close to just dumping everything into the trash and buying a $200 set of grado's. Don't have the money to keep repairing these things, especially when they where supposed to be a long term investment.

post #6746 of 9684

Sorry to hear that. This hobby is extremely frustrating at times.

post #6747 of 9684

Nightmare. Was just about to get a basic entry-level tube amp from China.

Noted, remove the SE connector prior to shut-down and start-up. Has this happened with other tube amps ?

post #6748 of 9684
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lohb View Post
 

Nightmare. Was just about to get a basic entry-level tube amp from China.

Noted, remove the SE connector prior to shut-down and start-up. Has this happened with other tube amps ?


That's actually what I've been doing, removing the cable from the 'phones themselves instead of from the Amp. Thought I was safe at that point. No idea how the hell it blows up while on.

 

The Amp has made the occasional pop/ringing sound while on though, sort of sounds like if you flicked the tube itself, maybe that caused something to blow. Maybe I've had a defective Lyr, dunno, it was number #275 off the lot, so it was definitely one of the early birds out. People seem to be super happy with Schiit so it can't be a normal occurrence.

 

Sadly this has been my only tube amp, I'm running from my PC > Audio-GD NFB-11 > Lyr.

 

Man, I don't even know what to do anymore. Super frustrated that it seems like even trying to baby my equipment is costing me money, When compared to my old $200 pair of M-Audio 'phones from 10 years ago that I've been super rough on still work great, other than the pads.

post #6749 of 9684
Quote:
Originally Posted by llama_egg View Post
 


That's actually what I've been doing, removing the cable from the 'phones themselves instead of from the Amp. Thought I was safe at that point. No idea how the hell it blows up while on.

 

The Amp has made the occasional pop/ringing sound while on though, sort of sounds like if you flicked the tube itself, maybe that caused something to blow. Maybe I've had a defective Lyr, dunno, it was number #275 off the lot, so it was definitely one of the early birds out. People seem to be super happy with Schiit so it can't be a normal occurrence.

 

Sadly this has been my only tube amp, I'm running from my PC > Audio-GD NFB-11 > Lyr.

 

Man, I don't even know what to do anymore. Super frustrated that it seems like even trying to baby my equipment is costing me money, When compared to my old $200 pair of M-Audio 'phones from 10 years ago that I've been super rough on still work great, other than the pads.


I'd maybe stick to removing at the amp as you might short the mini-xlrs at some point, plus wear-and-tear at the m-xlr port over time less easy to repair vs a new cable....though an EE may be able to advise on 'best practices'...


Edited by Lohb - 11/8/15 at 12:06am
post #6750 of 9684
I get a pop when the amp is switched off.
Also when after about 10 seconds when switching on there's a click from the unit and a pop from the phones.

Since I noticed that I have unplugged them at those points.
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