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Crack;Bottlehead OTL
Feb 23, 2014 at 11:42 PM Post #3,842 of 12,335
Hi there,
 
I've been using my GEC 6AS7G brown base for about 3 months with no problems. The tube base has been a little bit loose since I received the tube but it did not have any problems back then. But about last week, my Crack started to have microphonics. I placed the Crack on my desk, and whenever I type, I hear some 'ting' sound on the left channel. I tried swapping other input tubes but it didn't work. I'm not sure if it's because of the GEC or something else. And can tube dampers solve this problem?
 
Finally, is there any way to 'glue' the tube base somehow?
 
Thank you very much!
 
Feb 24, 2014 at 2:43 AM Post #3,844 of 12,335
aeolus kratos said:
  Hi there,
 
I've been using my GEC 6AS7G brown base for about 3 months with no problems. The tube base has been a little bit loose since I received the tube but it did not have any problems back then. But about last week, my Crack started to have microphonics. I placed the Crack on my desk, and whenever I type, I hear some 'ting' sound on the left channel. I tried swapping other input tubes but it didn't work. I'm not sure if it's because of the GEC or something else. And can tube dampers solve this problem?
 
Finally, is there any way to 'glue' the tube base somehow?
 
Thank you very much!
Click to expand...

 
Do you have a different power tube you can try to confirm it's the 6AS7G or are you trying to avoid handling it give the loose base?
 
Feb 24, 2014 at 3:17 AM Post #3,845 of 12,335
Dang my Crack died today. I think a bad solder or something since I used lead-free solder (don't ever use this lead free crap) when I built it and flipping it over it, some of the solder points have browned and look quite suspect. Also, the fuse didn't blow so it's not a short, but more likely an open circuit caused by a bad solder. Only question I have is that if I have Speedball installed, what it the best way to examine and possible fix solder points underneath it?
 
Feb 24, 2014 at 4:08 AM Post #3,847 of 12,335
defqon said:
   
Didn't your Valab stepper come with terminal blocks for easy wire termination on the back end?
Click to expand...

 
No it didn't and I was kind of expecting it to. Wiring and soldering is straight forward enough.  If you are after one with a termination block I suggest you could always check with the seller prior to ordering.
 
Feb 24, 2014 at 4:17 AM Post #3,848 of 12,335
Can anyone give me the dimensions of the bottom plate, that the components mount to? Thanks.
 
Feb 24, 2014 at 5:11 AM Post #3,850 of 12,335
So seriously considering getting this amp but I just got a few questions

Are there any other tools required apart from a soldering iron?

What kinda solder should one use for it?

Are there any particular tubes that suit the DT880s?

If you put a vinyl wrap like the 3m di-noc stuff on the bottom plate do the tubes heat it up and ruin it?

Thanks :atsmile:

P.S. you guys have made your amps look gorgeous :D
 
Feb 24, 2014 at 6:32 AM Post #3,851 of 12,335
sonido said:
  Dang my Crack died today. I think a bad solder or something since I used lead-free solder (don't ever use this lead free crap) when I built it and flipping it over it, some of the solder points have browned and look quite suspect. Also, the fuse didn't blow so it's not a short, but more likely an open circuit caused by a bad solder. Only question I have is that if I have Speedball installed, what it the best way to examine and possible fix solder points underneath it?
Click to expand...

1. Start visually by looking for joints that have too much solder, too little solder, or dull and dirty solder.
2. Reheat any joints that are even slightly suspect
3. Follow the test process from the manual to see if you can isolate the problematic joint
4. If in doubt, reheat every joint one by one (this is a quicker option than you may think)
 
PS reheating means applying heat until the solder completely liquifies.
 
aussiejuggalo said:
So seriously considering getting this amp but I just got a few questions

Are there any other tools required apart from a soldering iron? A screw driver, wire stripper of some description, a test meter (cheap is fine) and long nose pliers

What kinda solder should one use for it? Just standard solder or eutectic (spelling?)

Are there any particular tubes that suit the DT880s? It's all personal taste. Best to start stock and then see what you want more or less of.

If you put a vinyl wrap like the 3m di-noc stuff on the bottom plate do the tubes heat it up and ruin it? Hopefully someone can confirm from direct experience, but quality ones like 3M should be fine

Thanks
atsmile.gif


P.S. you guys have made your amps look gorgeous
biggrin.gif
Click to expand...

 
Feb 24, 2014 at 10:47 AM Post #3,852 of 12,335
sonido said:
  Dang my Crack died today. I think a bad solder or something since I used lead-free solder (don't ever use this lead free crap) when I built it and flipping it over it, some of the solder points have browned and look quite suspect. Also, the fuse didn't blow so it's not a short, but more likely an open circuit caused by a bad solder. Only question I have is that if I have Speedball installed, what it the best way to examine and possible fix solder points underneath it?
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear about your Crack.  If it were me, I'd first try to reflow all the solder-points just to make sure they were sound.  As far as getting to the area underneath the speedball (I'm assuming your talking about the tube socket wiring), I recently did this a couple weeks ago, and was able gain access by removing the screws that mounted the speedball boards to the standoff and gently moving the boards to the side.
 
I hope your troubleshooting goes well!
 
Feb 24, 2014 at 12:12 PM Post #3,853 of 12,335
I spent this morning listening to Beck's new Morning Phase album.  Through the Crack>HD600, the tracks sound fantastic, the airiness of his music lends itself well to the amp/HP pairing.
 
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