Maverick Audio TubeMagic D1 (DAC/Amp) - Condensed FAQ and Info Thread

[ninjikiran]

The output splitter is better imo than the switch if its only two output devices.  Much better than a device that can unintentionally effect the signal quality, at the same time signal strength.  If its powered than its going through an extra op-amp of sorts.

 

[_Spanky_]

Quote:

I sold my Maverick D1 a couple of months ago, but for anybody who is using the USB input on their D1, the device for sale in my signature did more to improve my D1 sound quality than all of the tube and op-amp rolling I did put together.  The USB input of the D1 is its one really weak point, but if you use something like the Teralink X2 to go between your computer and the D1's S/PDIF inputs (I used coax), you can a huge boost in clarity, detail and lower noise for not much money.  Just FYI from a previous D1 owner.

I don't know that I agree with the sound quality point, the opamp upgrades were really great. But I completely agree with the USB being the weak point. I am glad I spent almost $80 for the Teralink X2 I bought. It was worth every penny. In my case, it got rid of USB noise and ensured bit-perfect output. Having a proper transport means a lot.
 

 

[atwoodt]

I just got my D1 back from Joseph Chow at Audio Horizons. Here is what was done:

1. Replace 4 power rectifier didoes to Fred diodes.
2. Replace power switch internal wiring to Hi Q wires.
3. Replace 2 electrolytic cap and 2 Wima output coupling cap to 2 of Philips polypropylene cap 4.7uF
4. Replace 2 of bundle internal wiring to Hi Q wires.
5. Replace volume pot to Alps blue, relocation control relay, diodes, resistor, bundle wire, enlarge mounting hole

 
I installed a large 30mm Brass Volume Pot on the Alps from PartsConnexion. Looks very nice and fit the shaft and D1 exactly.
 
Previously I had swapped the two opamps to the ones that seem to be most popular.
 
Sounds marvelous with tube out, haven't played with the headphone section yet. I'll post some  pics soon.
 
Anyone have any updates on the D2? Spanky? I heard from Ryan a little bit ago that it's on track for September or so...
 

 

[Riverback]

Has anyone tried the JAN or Sylvania tubes with the D1?

 

[Tequilasunriser]

I Have a GE JAN in mine now. Sounds good.
 
I have have a Sylvania too but I've never tried in in my D1. Tube placement is awkward and seems fragile when pulling and replacing tubes so I haven't experimented much with tube rolling.
 
Quote:

Has anyone tried the JAN or Sylvania tubes with the D1?

 

 

[kswa1987]

First off, Thanks very much for putting this thread together and providing all of the great information for potential purchasers!
 
I think, after thoroughly reading this entire thread, that I'm about ready to purchase my D1 and some OpAmp upgrades for great sound on day 1.
 
My setup will be iMac --> Toslink --> D1 --> AKG K702s
 
I think I am going to go with the LM4562 OpAmp upgrade for the headphone portion.  Although at some point in the future I do intend on getting an A1 or similar amplifier, for the time being I will be driving my K702s with the D1.  In a setup like this, my understanding is that I will ONLY need to upgrade the OpAmp in the U6 part of the board (the headphone amp section) and any Tube or DAC OpAmp upgrades will be unnecessary?  
 
There is conflicting information in this thread on that issue.  I would think that the DAC's OpAmp would be utilized no matter what output you are using, but that may not be the case (I'm no expert, just spent a lot of time reading this thread).  If so, would a OPA627 "Superchip" be a good choice?  (I have heard that the OpAmp section is too small to do two OPA627s with a 2-1 converter, anyone have personal experience with this?)
 
Lastly, is this a good retailer for the OpAmps in question (for US purchasers)?  www.audiophileproducts.com/opamps
 
Thanks again to everyone that put in work making this a great thread, I am very excited to upgrade my listening experience.
 
Small Edit:  Any further info on the D2?  Think it'd be worth waiting for?

 

[ounwx]

Hey guys,

For my computer audio, I'm currently running the following equipment connected to my onboard sound:

*Grado SR80i's
*Klipsch B2 bookshelf speakers, powered by a cheap T-amp on my desk

My onboard audio doesn't sound bad, per se. However, it occasionally pops and clicks, which is beginning to grate on me. Also, the front-jack headphone port on my tower's case has quite a bit of background noise.

I've decided that I'd like to find some sort of external solution, rather than an internal sound card, to bypass my onboard sound. While searching for reasonably-priced options (under $200) that would easily handle both my speakers and cans, I came across this unit, which looks very attractive and convenient for my purposes.

So, just a few questions for current or previous owners:

1. Does it provide a noticeable improvement over your onboard audio?

2. Does the volume knob affect output from the line-out, or only the headphone amp?

3. Does the headphone amp work well with low-impedence cans like Grados (32 Ohms)?

4. Have you tried any comparable units in the sub-$200 range that might suit my needs just as well, while saving some cash? I've been eyeing the Fiio E7 for about half the price, but it has several distinct disadvantages and mixed reviews on sound quality. (I know $200 doesn't seem like much to spend on this, but given my speakers and headphones aren't exactly top-of-the-line themselves, I figure splurging on a DAC isn't necessarily the most efficient move).

 

[Tequilasunriser]

Quote:

In a setup like this, my understanding is that I will ONLY need to upgrade the OpAmp in the U6 part of the board (the headphone amp section) and any Tube or DAC OpAmp upgrades will be unnecessary?  
 
There is conflicting information in this thread on that issue.  I would think that the DAC's OpAmp would be utilized no matter what output you are using, but that may not be the case (I'm no expert, just spent a lot of time reading this thread).  If so, would a OPA627 "Superchip" be a good choice?  (I have heard that the OpAmp section is too small to do two OPA627s with a 2-1 converter, anyone have personal experience with this?)
 
Lastly, is this a good retailer for the OpAmps in question (for US purchasers)?  www.audiophileproducts.com/opamps
 
Thanks again to everyone that put in work making this a great thread, I am very excited to upgrade my listening experience.
 
Small Edit:  Any further info on the D2?  Think it'd be worth waiting for?

From what I understand the DAC opamp and tubes are reserved for the preamp sections; one being a tube preamp and the other being solid state, so, yes, they are separate from the headphone section.
 
Not sure about OPA627 as I've never used it, nor any 2-1 converters, but I must admit that I'm curious now. I took a look at the site you linked and that dual channel adapter sure does look cool.
 
I've gotten my opamps from digikey in the U.S. their prices are very fair. I paid only a few dollars for 2 opamps and they arrived promptly in a well padded envelope inside sturdy plastic tubes. Their site is a bit difficult to navigate, but they are trusted. The site you linked is much more expensive than digikey, so if you don't mind navigating the site the end transaction is worth it.
 
Spanky posted some info about the D2. I am not at all impressed with what I saw and am glad I went with the D1. It has far less functionality than the D1. The D2 is simply a DAC while the D1 is a DAC, preamp, and headphone amp.
 

 

[Tequilasunriser]

Quote:

1. Does it provide a noticeable improvement over your onboard audio?

2. Does the volume knob affect output from the line-out, or only the headphone amp?

3. Does the headphone amp work well with low-impedence cans like Grados (32 Ohms)?

4. Have you tried any comparable units in the sub-$200 range that might suit my needs just as well, while saving some cash? I've been eyeing the Fiio E7 for about half the price, but it has several distinct disadvantages and mixed reviews on sound quality. (I know $200 doesn't seem like much to spend on this, but given my speakers and headphones aren't exactly top-of-the-line themselves, I figure splurging on a DAC isn't necessarily the most efficient move).

1. Yes, but you'll notice it depends more on the sample rates and bit rates and the overall quality of the file/source.
 
2. The volume knob can affect the line outs if the D1 is being used as a preamp. The "direct" button bypasses or enables the volume knob for the line outs.
 
3. Yes, I use Koss Portapros (unknown low impedance), Sennheiser HD555s (32 Ohm), and AKG K240s (55 Ohm) all with great success.
 
4. I have not tried another unit, so I have no basis for comparison, but for it's price and its features the D1 is hard to pass up. Besides, the demand for the D1 is high enough that if you decide to experiment with other DACs and decide you want to sell your D1 you'll still get some decent coin for your unit.
 

 

[kswa1987]

I've gotten my opamps from digikey in the U.S. their prices are very fair. I paid only a few dollars for 2 opamps and they arrived promptly in a well padded envelope inside sturdy plastic tubes. Their site is a bit difficult to navigate, but they are trusted. The site you linked is much more expensive than digikey, so if you don't mind navigating the site the end transaction is worth it.
 

thanks for the info... I found several versions on digikey. My initial guess is to go with the NA model with the 8DIP connection but I think I remember reading something about the HA model with the metal can. think there's any tangible difference there? there is certainly a difference in price (~$3 for the 8DIP and ~$19 for the metal can)

 

[donunus]

Quote:

D1 is a good DAC. Just get the tube upgraded to GE 5670 and you are safe.
 
Oh and one thing, don't use D1's preamp.

Whats wrong with the D1's preamp?
 
 

 

[Tequilasunriser]

 
Quote:

thanks for the info... I found several versions on digikey. My initial guess is to go with the NA model with the 8DIP connection but I think I remember reading something about the HA model with the metal can. think there's any tangible difference there? there is certainly a difference in price (~$3 for the 8DIP and ~$19 for the metal can)

Your guess is correct. 8dip is what you need.
 
Some people prefer the metal can because it is said to shield the opamp from interference. I've never tried the metal can, but I've also never noticed any interference that needed shielding either.
 

 

[Riverback]

I think he means not to use it as a preamp. The volume pot in the D1 isn't the best, Preferably use it with the Direct button engaged
 
Quote:

Whats wrong with the D1's preamp?
 
 

 
 

 

[donunus]

The reason I asked this was because a friend of mine is getting one soon to use as a dac/preamp for his speaker based system. If it is not good as a preamp, he still has his adcom but we were hoping that it would actually serve as a fun alternative to it.

 

[Riverback]

Its ok as a direct line-out. Its just the volume pot and the direct button becomes a bit dodgy at times so I just use the volume pot on the speakers