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post #9541 of 10678

I'm a long time lurker and I've been reading through this huge thread. I'm going to get the T50RP's and try my hand at modding even though I'm not much of a DIY sort of person.  Thanks to everyone who has contributed ideas and methods.

post #9542 of 10678

So, here's what my pair has:

100% organic cotton balls

modeling clay packed

fiberglass insulation

acoustic foam in the cups, with logs

3mm port

shure pads

dynamat on the outside of the cups

felt under the driver with a small square of tape in the center as a treble reflector

 

They sounded excellent, but I wanted a bit more bass.  I decided to give the dynamat a coating of acoustic foam to try to cut down a bit more on the treble reflections, and they sound good enough that I think I am done modding.  The entire range is crisp and clear.  Bass is well extended and has decent impact.  Midrange is... standard amazing t50rp midrange.  Compared to how it was stock, it's much more toned down, or, perhaps I should say the bass and treble have been brought up to the level of the mids.  Treble is very crisp and clear, near sparkly, a little more and it would be slightly sibilant, but as it is now, it only has a hint of sibilance when playing songs that I know to have issues with that using any of my headphones.  Soundstage is more closed in than it was, but still very good considering they are closed headphones.  Isolation is much better, too, since I think the foam is sealing the chamber of the cup to my head much better than just the pads alone.  I am extremely happy with where these are at and don't think I'll be modding them anymore, so I double-sided taped the earpads on all the way around the cup.  I honestly don't see how they could get any better than they are now.

 

Thanks for all of your help, everyone, these things kick ass, and for $100 spent including modding supplies, I am simply blown away.


Edited by onefatsurfer - 11/16/12 at 8:06pm
post #9543 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislangley4253 View Post

Just got my t50rp in. The cable had problems, no surprise there. Some deoxit fixed it (and I have a vmoda cable en route)

 

The more troubling issue is the rattle of the right side with bass... Should I get a replacement pair? *sigh*

Common problem....just so you know.

post #9544 of 10678

For reference, I am using Organic Essentials triple-size cotton balls.  They are extremely soft and puffy and come apart easily.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Organic-Cotton-Balls-80-Count/dp/B000YL8NOK

post #9545 of 10678

I am excited, too, since my cousin bought her boyfriend a pair of these on my recommendation.  I can't wait for us to a/b them with my modded pair before I mod his.  smily_headphones1.gif

post #9546 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by onefatsurfer View Post

So, here's what my pair has:

100% organic cotton balls

modeling clay packed

fiberglass insulation

acoustic foam in the cups, with logs

3mm port

shure pads

dynamat on the outside of the cups

felt under the driver with a small square of tape in the center as a treble reflector

 

They sounded excellent, but I wanted a bit more bass.  I decided to give the dynamat a coating of acoustic foam to try to cut down a bit more on the treble reflections, and they sound good enough that I think I am done modding.  The entire range is crisp and clear.  Bass is well extended and has decent impact.  Midrange is... standard amazing t50rp midrange.  Compared to how it was stock, it's much more toned down, or, perhaps I should say the bass and treble have been brought up to the level of the mids.  Treble is very crisp and clear, near sparkly, a little more and it would be slightly sibilant, but as it is now, it only has a hint of sibilance when playing songs that I know to have issues with that using any of my headphones.  Soundstage is more closed in than it was, but still very good considering they are closed headphones.  Isolation is much better, too, since I think the foam is sealing the chamber of the cup to my head much better than just the pads alone.  I am extremely happy with where these are at and don't think I'll be modding them anymore, so I double-sided taped the earpads on all the way around the cup.  I honestly don't see how they could get any better than they are now.

 

Thanks for all of your help, everyone, these things kick ass, and for $100 spent including modding supplies, I am simply blown away.

 

FWIW, IF you still want a bit more bass, you could try:

 

1. Seal the ear side baffle ports

2. Punch a few holes in the stiff felt over the back of the driver grid

3. Enlarge your 3 mm modified bass port to 5-6 mm, or

4. Remove your modified bass port and leave the cup vents stock with their black felt in place on the inside.

post #9547 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

 

FWIW, IF you still want a bit more bass, you could try:

 

1. Seal the ear side baffle ports

2. Punch a few holes in the stiff felt over the back of the driver grid

3. Enlarge your 3 mm modified bass port to 5-6 mm, or

4. Remove your modified bass port and leave the cup vents stock with their black felt in place on the inside.

I think I am pretty good with bass.  They sound very flat and the sound changes considerably depending on my source.  Through my Logitech Transporter > cmoyBB with bass boost turned off, they are very neutral.  They are quite warm and almost a little bassy if I play them through the Transporter > my Sherwood S-7050.  Depending on what kind of music I'm listening to, I'll switch amps to get the sound that I want :)

post #9548 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by micmacmo View Post

proid, about your lack of bass.  I was futzing around today and remembered just how much effect ear pads can have on the sound.

 

In my experience, the seal between the cup and the pads and between the pads and the head are critical in creating bass. Also, large ear holes (like those on the 840 and 003/HM5 pads) convey more bass than small ear holes (like those found on the T50RP pads and some thick DIY custom pads I made). I found the size of the ear hole was more important than the depth of the ear hole.

My pairs have plenty of bass, it's just not very deep and control. In the incremental mod thread i see even a stock t50rp with shure 840 pad is quite flat at 20hz but some time ago i tried this config with a stock t50rp of my friend but bass didn't go that deep like the graph too.

post #9549 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by LFF View Post

Common problem....just so you know.

Do you suggest returning them or will the problem go away with dampening? I already sent them back, but I want to know for my next pair.

Thanks

Also, would you be willing to sell the pad you use for your suspension headbands on the paradox? I really liked that pad (even though it left crazy patterns in my hair). If not,  I'm sure I can cook up something :)

post #9550 of 10678

I actually just found some nice black pleather in the closet. I think I'll make the paper band and then sew the pleather around it. That or use contact glue, what do you guys think?

*edit* My V-moda cable just showed up. The red and black is super nice looking. For some reason I was expecting a female jack on the 45 angled piece, but it's just a red thing. Fine by me :) The shipping only took three days. Not bad at all and they sent me two stickers.

 

 

700


Edited by chrislangley4253 - 11/17/12 at 3:02pm
post #9551 of 10678

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislangley4253 View Post

I actually just found some nice black pleather in the closet. I think I'll make the paper band and then sew the pleather around it. That or use contact glue, what do you guys think?

*edit* My V-moda cable just showed up. The red and black is super nice looking. For some reason I was expecting a female jack on the 45 angled piece, but it's just a red thing. Fine by me :) The shipping only took three days. Not bad at all and they sent me two stickers.

 

 

I made a pleather band out of folded pleather wrapped around a foam core. It's then screwed into the sides using the screws that attach the headband to the adjusting rails.

 

700

post #9552 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislangley4253 View Post

I actually just found some nice black pleather in the closet. I think I'll make the paper band and then sew the pleather around it. That or use contact glue, what do you guys think?


*edit* My V-moda cable just showed up. The red and black is super nice looking. For some reason I was expecting a female jack on the 45 angled piece, but it's just a red thing. Fine by me smily_headphones1.gif The shipping only took three days. Not bad at all and they sent me two stickers.


Do what Tangster did, but in three pieces: connectors x 2 + central part. Join them with stiff enough wide elastic, and you get a very comfortable suspension headband wink.gif

Don't use any paper except perhaps to figure out the shape/length/width you want for your headband.
post #9553 of 10678

A few thoughts from the bleachers, taking notes from pro audio acoustic treatments with acoustic foam...

 

It's all about maximizing surface area. Spacing foam off the wall effectively (sort of) gives you double the surface area for absorption. Make those log pyramids deeper. Heck, use some pyramid logs as a spacer underneath the first layer; hole punch a few spots so pressure makes it to the backside.

 

botton of cup --> dynamat etc (optional) --> short logs --> foam layer --> tall logs --> cotton or whatever else on top

post #9554 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post

A few thoughts from the bleachers, taking notes from pro audio acoustic treatments with acoustic foam...

 

It's all about maximizing surface area. Spacing foam off the wall effectively (sort of) gives you double the surface area for absorption. Make those log pyramids deeper. Heck, use some pyramid logs as a spacer underneath the first layer; hole punch a few spots so pressure makes it to the backside.

 

botton of cup --> dynamat etc (optional) --> short logs --> foam layer --> tall logs --> cotton or whatever else on top

cool idea! Although, we'd probably want to try to strip off most of the adhesive on the foam.. or find a different type of acoustic foam entirely.

 

or perhaps we could use some felt on top of the pyramids on top of the acoustic foam.


Edited by chrislangley4253 - 11/18/12 at 10:33pm
post #9555 of 10678
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post

A few thoughts from the bleachers, taking notes from pro audio acoustic treatments with acoustic foam...

 

It's all about maximizing surface area. Spacing foam off the wall effectively (sort of) gives you double the surface area for absorption. Make those log pyramids deeper. Heck, use some pyramid logs as a spacer underneath the first layer; hole punch a few spots so pressure makes it to the backside.

 

botton of cup --> dynamat etc (optional) --> short logs --> foam layer --> tall logs --> cotton or whatever else on top

 

+1

 

 

One year ago, I tried 2- and 3-layer Paxmate Plus lattices in the cup floor wells:

 

700

 

 

700

 

 

Many mods later...

 

My current DBV #3 setup:

 

Cup floor --> Acoustipack Lite butyl substrate (instead of Dynamat with metal overlay) --> Acoustipack Lite open cell foam  --> Paxmate/Silverstone open cell "Ladder Rungs" --> Fluffed cotton --> Fiberglass --> Stiff felt over driver --> Paper between stiff felt and driver --> Newplast --> Shure 840's

 

 

 

 

 

 

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