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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW!

Nov 16, 2012 at 9:48 PM Post #9,541 of 11,346
I'm a long time lurker and I've been reading through this huge thread. I'm going to get the T50RP's and try my hand at modding even though I'm not much of a DIY sort of person.  Thanks to everyone who has contributed ideas and methods.
 
Nov 16, 2012 at 10:29 PM Post #9,542 of 11,346
So, here's what my pair has:
100% organic cotton balls
modeling clay packed
fiberglass insulation
acoustic foam in the cups, with logs
3mm port
shure pads
dynamat on the outside of the cups
felt under the driver with a small square of tape in the center as a treble reflector
 
They sounded excellent, but I wanted a bit more bass.  I decided to give the dynamat a coating of acoustic foam to try to cut down a bit more on the treble reflections, and they sound good enough that I think I am done modding.  The entire range is crisp and clear.  Bass is well extended and has decent impact.  Midrange is... standard amazing t50rp midrange.  Compared to how it was stock, it's much more toned down, or, perhaps I should say the bass and treble have been brought up to the level of the mids.  Treble is very crisp and clear, near sparkly, a little more and it would be slightly sibilant, but as it is now, it only has a hint of sibilance when playing songs that I know to have issues with that using any of my headphones.  Soundstage is more closed in than it was, but still very good considering they are closed headphones.  Isolation is much better, too, since I think the foam is sealing the chamber of the cup to my head much better than just the pads alone.  I am extremely happy with where these are at and don't think I'll be modding them anymore, so I double-sided taped the earpads on all the way around the cup.  I honestly don't see how they could get any better than they are now.
 
Thanks for all of your help, everyone, these things kick ass, and for $100 spent including modding supplies, I am simply blown away.
 
Nov 16, 2012 at 10:31 PM Post #9,543 of 11,346
Quote:
chrislangley4253 said:
Just got my t50rp in. The cable had problems, no surprise there. Some deoxit fixed it (and I have a vmoda cable en route)
 
The more troubling issue is the rattle of the right side with bass... Should I get a replacement pair? *sigh*
Click to expand...

Common problem....just so you know.
 
Nov 16, 2012 at 10:55 PM Post #9,545 of 11,346
I am excited, too, since my cousin bought her boyfriend a pair of these on my recommendation.  I can't wait for us to a/b them with my modded pair before I mod his.  
smily_headphones1.gif

 
Nov 17, 2012 at 9:26 AM Post #9,546 of 11,346
Quote:
onefatsurfer said:
So, here's what my pair has:
100% organic cotton balls
modeling clay packed
fiberglass insulation
acoustic foam in the cups, with logs
3mm port
shure pads
dynamat on the outside of the cups
felt under the driver with a small square of tape in the center as a treble reflector
 
They sounded excellent, but I wanted a bit more bass.  I decided to give the dynamat a coating of acoustic foam to try to cut down a bit more on the treble reflections, and they sound good enough that I think I am done modding.  The entire range is crisp and clear.  Bass is well extended and has decent impact.  Midrange is... standard amazing t50rp midrange.  Compared to how it was stock, it's much more toned down, or, perhaps I should say the bass and treble have been brought up to the level of the mids.  Treble is very crisp and clear, near sparkly, a little more and it would be slightly sibilant, but as it is now, it only has a hint of sibilance when playing songs that I know to have issues with that using any of my headphones.  Soundstage is more closed in than it was, but still very good considering they are closed headphones.  Isolation is much better, too, since I think the foam is sealing the chamber of the cup to my head much better than just the pads alone.  I am extremely happy with where these are at and don't think I'll be modding them anymore, so I double-sided taped the earpads on all the way around the cup.  I honestly don't see how they could get any better than they are now.
 
Thanks for all of your help, everyone, these things kick ass, and for $100 spent including modding supplies, I am simply blown away.
Click to expand...

 
FWIW, IF you still want a bit more bass, you could try:
 
1. Seal the ear side baffle ports
2. Punch a few holes in the stiff felt over the back of the driver grid
3. Enlarge your 3 mm modified bass port to 5-6 mm, or
4. Remove your modified bass port and leave the cup vents stock with their black felt in place on the inside.
 
Nov 17, 2012 at 9:39 AM Post #9,547 of 11,346
Quote:
bluemonkeyflyer said:
 
FWIW, IF you still want a bit more bass, you could try:
 
1. Seal the ear side baffle ports
2. Punch a few holes in the stiff felt over the back of the driver grid
3. Enlarge your 3 mm modified bass port to 5-6 mm, or
4. Remove your modified bass port and leave the cup vents stock with their black felt in place on the inside.
Click to expand...

I think I am pretty good with bass.  They sound very flat and the sound changes considerably depending on my source.  Through my Logitech Transporter > cmoyBB with bass boost turned off, they are very neutral.  They are quite warm and almost a little bassy if I play them through the Transporter > my Sherwood S-7050.  Depending on what kind of music I'm listening to, I'll switch amps to get the sound that I want :)
 
Nov 17, 2012 at 10:47 AM Post #9,548 of 11,346
Quote:
micmacmo said:
proid, about your lack of bass.  I was futzing around today and remembered just how much effect ear pads can have on the sound.
 
In my experience, the seal between the cup and the pads and between the pads and the head are critical in creating bass. Also, large ear holes (like those on the 840 and 003/HM5 pads) convey more bass than small ear holes (like those found on the T50RP pads and some thick DIY custom pads I made). I found the size of the ear hole was more important than the depth of the ear hole.
Click to expand...

My pairs have plenty of bass, it's just not very deep and control. In the incremental mod thread i see even a stock t50rp with shure 840 pad is quite flat at 20hz but some time ago i tried this config with a stock t50rp of my friend but bass didn't go that deep like the graph too.
 
Nov 17, 2012 at 5:07 PM Post #9,549 of 11,346
Quote:
lff said:
Common problem....just so you know.
Click to expand...

Do you suggest returning them or will the problem go away with dampening? I already sent them back, but I want to know for my next pair.

Thanks

Also, would you be willing to sell the pad you use for your suspension headbands on the paradox? I really liked that pad (even though it left crazy patterns in my hair). If not,  I'm sure I can cook up something :)
 
Nov 17, 2012 at 5:30 PM Post #9,550 of 11,346
I actually just found some nice black pleather in the closet. I think I'll make the paper band and then sew the pleather around it. That or use contact glue, what do you guys think?

*edit* My V-moda cable just showed up. The red and black is super nice looking. For some reason I was expecting a female jack on the 45 angled piece, but it's just a red thing. Fine by me :) The shipping only took three days. Not bad at all and they sent me two stickers.
 
 

 
Nov 17, 2012 at 10:13 PM Post #9,551 of 11,346

Quote:
chrislangley4253 said:
I actually just found some nice black pleather in the closet. I think I'll make the paper band and then sew the pleather around it. That or use contact glue, what do you guys think?

*edit* My V-moda cable just showed up. The red and black is super nice looking. For some reason I was expecting a female jack on the 45 angled piece, but it's just a red thing. Fine by me :) The shipping only took three days. Not bad at all and they sent me two stickers.
 
 
Click to expand...

I made a pleather band out of folded pleather wrapped around a foam core. It's then screwed into the sides using the screws that attach the headband to the adjusting rails.
 

 
Nov 17, 2012 at 11:03 PM Post #9,552 of 11,346
chrislangley4253 said:
I actually just found some nice black pleather in the closet. I think I'll make the paper band and then sew the pleather around it. That or use contact glue, what do you guys think?


*edit* My V-moda cable just showed up. The red and black is super nice looking. For some reason I was expecting a female jack on the 45 angled piece, but it's just a red thing. Fine by me :) The shipping only took three days. Not bad at all and they sent me two stickers.


Click to expand...

Do what Tangster did, but in three pieces: connectors x 2 + central part. Join them with stiff enough wide elastic, and you get a very comfortable suspension headband ;)

Don't use any paper except perhaps to figure out the shape/length/width you want for your headband.
 
Nov 19, 2012 at 1:14 AM Post #9,553 of 11,346
A few thoughts from the bleachers, taking notes from pro audio acoustic treatments with acoustic foam...
 
It's all about maximizing surface area. Spacing foam off the wall effectively (sort of) gives you double the surface area for absorption. Make those log pyramids deeper. Heck, use some pyramid logs as a spacer underneath the first layer; hole punch a few spots so pressure makes it to the backside.
 
botton of cup --> dynamat etc (optional) --> short logs --> foam layer --> tall logs --> cotton or whatever else on top
 
Nov 19, 2012 at 1:18 AM Post #9,554 of 11,346
Quote:
armaegis said:
A few thoughts from the bleachers, taking notes from pro audio acoustic treatments with acoustic foam...
 
It's all about maximizing surface area. Spacing foam off the wall effectively (sort of) gives you double the surface area for absorption. Make those log pyramids deeper. Heck, use some pyramid logs as a spacer underneath the first layer; hole punch a few spots so pressure makes it to the backside.
 
botton of cup --> dynamat etc (optional) --> short logs --> foam layer --> tall logs --> cotton or whatever else on top
Click to expand...

cool idea! Although, we'd probably want to try to strip off most of the adhesive on the foam.. or find a different type of acoustic foam entirely.
 
or perhaps we could use some felt on top of the pyramids on top of the acoustic foam.
 
Nov 19, 2012 at 12:45 PM Post #9,555 of 11,346
Quote:
armaegis said:
A few thoughts from the bleachers, taking notes from pro audio acoustic treatments with acoustic foam...
 
It's all about maximizing surface area. Spacing foam off the wall effectively (sort of) gives you double the surface area for absorption. Make those log pyramids deeper. Heck, use some pyramid logs as a spacer underneath the first layer; hole punch a few spots so pressure makes it to the backside.
 
botton of cup --> dynamat etc (optional) --> short logs --> foam layer --> tall logs --> cotton or whatever else on top
Click to expand...

 
+1
 
 
One year ago, I tried 2- and 3-layer Paxmate Plus lattices in the cup floor wells:
 

 
 

 
 
Many mods later...
 
My current DBV #3 setup:
 
Cup floor --> Acoustipack Lite butyl substrate (instead of Dynamat with metal overlay) --> Acoustipack Lite open cell foam  --> Paxmate/Silverstone open cell "Ladder Rungs" --> Fluffed cotton --> Fiberglass --> Stiff felt over driver --> Paper between stiff felt and driver --> Newplast --> Shure 840's
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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